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Models > DPSR483EA1WW > Instructions

DPSR483EA1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DPSR483EA1WW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DPSR483EA1WW
16-30 of 463
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Dryer made excessively loud noise when running.

  • Customer: Owen from Virginia Beach, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 36 of 51 people found this instruction helpful
I initially opened the front of the dryer and noticed that the drum slides that the drum rides on in the front of the dryer were excessively worn. I then removed the drum and noticed that the plastic bearing that supported the drum in the rear was cracked and the washer(?) appered to be disintigrating. I ordered and replaced the drum slides and rear bearing. The dryer was still making too much noise. I ran the motor with the drum removed and realized that they motor was the remaining source of the excessive noise. I then ordered and replaced the motor with a new one and this solved the problem. Total cost was around $140. Note that when ordering a new motor, the instructions on the web site indicate that you need to order the motor pulley if your existing motor has a pressed on pulley. The new motor was a kit that came with the pulley included, and therefore the additional part was not needed, and had to be returned. The instructional videos and parts schematics on the web site were very helpful.

My clothes were being "bitten", discolored with blackish smudges, and buttons eaten off clothing

  • Customer: Deborah from Glenburn, ME
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 29 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
First I really had to hunt for the proper way to get my dryer drum accessible for the repair. With my model it was as simple as removing two screws to take off the top panel (located by opening the dryer door), and then removing two other screws inside the front panel at the top. The front will then be able to swing to the left side (the door switch wires are on this side for this model). Simply remove the drum bearing by gently pulling it off. My slides were in such poor shape for less than 4 years old!! One of them had completely disintegrated! These slides have a small whole on one end which attaches to a small nub at the edge of a slot while the other side just slid into a slot at the other end. No need to even take out the drum!!
The hardest part of the job was to get into the dryer!

Squeaking Dryer - Rear Drum bearing gone bad

  • Customer: Jason from Cary, NC
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 28 of 31 people found this instruction helpful
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.

Broken Dryer Belt

  • Customer: Richard from Ashton, MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 35 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
I had to take most of the dryer apart because there is no rear access to the motor. It turned out to be easy to dissasembel the dryer. The only problem that I had was that I could not figure out how to route the belt around the motor and the idol pullies. I could not find anywhere that gave instructions on how to properly tension the belt. I finally figured out that the idoler pulley needs to be locked in place on the right side of the engie mount. Then the belt needs to be routed over idoler pulley and under the motor pulley. Finally release the idoler pully from the locked postion to put tension on the belt. It really turned out to be pretty easy.

dryer would run until you shut it off , timer did not advance , clothes would air dry there was no heat

  • Customer: david from gaffney, SC
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 37 of 62 people found this instruction helpful
unplugged dryer ,pulled dryer front and top off and removed drum , found element wire broken . loosened element to be able to remove wire pods . reverserd removal ( belt is a little tricky ) reattached power cord to outlet worked like a charm.

making noise

  • Customer: Lissa from Redlands, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 36 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced idler pulley and belt very simple

Dryer would not start

  • Customer: Ray from Kingwood, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
The switch made a humming sound when I turned it so I thought that might be the problem. Using the instructions on this Web site I took the top panel of the dryer off (after unplugging it), unplugged two wires leading from the switch (needed pliers for this), and removed the switch unit by rotating it counterclockwise (when behind it).
The replacement part came in two days. The installation went a lot quicker-maybe ten minutes.

dryer would not heat

  • Customer: Mike from Simpsonville, SC
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 37 of 64 people found this instruction helpful
The heating element was broken.

Dryer took a long time to dry clothes

  • Customer: Darrell from Springdale, AR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 34 of 56 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the removed the screws that held the top on the dryer. Next I removed the screws that held the controls on from the back. I then removed screws that held the left side in place and removed the drum by first removing the drive belt.
The heating element unit was removed by removing four screws and the wiring harnes. I reversed the procedure to install the heating unit and put the machine back together.

Broken knobs

  • Customer: Ray from South Pasadena, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 32 of 53 people found this instruction helpful
Actually putting on a knob is self-explanatory. But wanted to say your company had the best price and reaction (delivery time). Great job by PartSelect!

Timer only worked part of the time

  • Customer: John A from Medora, IN
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 22 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the screws holding the cover for the switches.I twisted the old timer loose.I moved wires one by one to the new timer with pliers.Lastly, I twisted the new timer to the locking position and replaced the cover.Everything now works fine

Dryer squeaked when running

  • Customer: Mark from Garrett, IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 25 of 34 people found this instruction helpful
Everything is cleaned as it is removed.

Remove the two screws holding the top down.
Disconnect two wires from door switch.
Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.
Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.
Remove the drum.
Label the wires then remove the heating element.
Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.
Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.
Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element.
Reinstall heating element.
Reconnect wires.

Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.
I will describe how I did it.

Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.
Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.
Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector.
Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.
Start two screws don't tighten them yet.
Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.
Put belt on drum.
Install drum and belt.
Reverse disassembly.
When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.

I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.

main motor bearings frozen

  • Customer: John from Grand Rapids, MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 35 of 66 people found this instruction helpful
Having recently replaced the heating elements and main bearing on the dryer I knew how to take the thing apart, getting to the motor was easy. However, the fan side of the shaft was longer than the original so I had to bend out the metal front panel where the fan is located so it would spin without grinding against the front of the dryer. That done, the rest was easy to finish, mounting bolts on the motor tightened, one last test before putting it back together and all was well. The dryer now works better than it has for a long time.

Deflector was covered in burnt something.

  • Customer: Richard from San Antonio, FL
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 23 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
Deflector has 3 bolts attaching it. They require a star wrench. Had to purchase same to do the repair. Removed the bolts(they are sheet metal type screws(bolts). Installed the deflector and started dryer. Loud rubbing sound noted. Shut off and checked the drum and noted it was not running concentrically. Removed deflector and the found the 3 screws actually retained the drum to drive. Had to make alignment pins to allow proper alignment of the drive, drum, and deflector. Once the pins were used during installation of the deflector everything worked correctly. Turned on dryer and it operated normally.
Had I had the proper tools the repair would probably have taken 30 minutes or less.

dryer was cutting off completely.

  • Customer: Stephen from Mechanicsville, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 22 of 35 people found this instruction helpful
The problem was intermittent. It only happened when the unit was first started. After it was restarted it usually worked until the load was dry. I looked at the schematics and saw that only the hi-temp therostat and the motor overload could stop the dryer completely. I put my volt meter on the hi-temp thermostat and ran the dryer. When the dryer stopped I realized the hi-temp therm. was tripping. I read the web site help for this symptom and the suggestion was the bias therm.
I replaced it and the unit worked.
All Instructions for the DPSR483EA1WW
16-30 of 463