DP1040XTXQ5 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

cap was replaced

Old gasket was broken in places and old. Installing the new one was easy- no tools required. Just pull out the old one and press in the new one. Washer still leaks because door does not close all the way- need to figure out how to get it to shut tight. Maybe the latch is loose or worn.

repairman replaced the valve inlet; first website tried to tell me I needed a new pump, but repairman said it would be some type of valve; service rep on phone very helpful,I ordered the correct part,except for having to lay on the floor, he repaired it easily; part came within 24 hours. Worked immediately. No additional tubes or parts needed.

I read information on this website about the function of the high limit thermostat. I found that it was the problem by disconnecting the two wires on the thermostat and straight wiring to bypass it. This allowed the machine to work properly so I ordered the high limit thermostat. To replace the part I used a screwdriver to remove the instrument panel and replaced the high limit thermostat by disconnecting the two wires from the old thermostat and connecting the wires to the new thermostat. I then replaced the instrument panel. My machine is working properly again..

Removed front cover, (8 screws) Removed 4 screws that hold the dispenser in place. Removed and replaced the dispenser, installed front cover and screws. Checked for leaks.

The dishwasher was so load I was sure the pump had a bad bearing. . . After reading the on line comments I examined the chopper and it looked ok. As it turned out the damage was on the shaft and caused the shaft to lock onto the screen without the ability for the spring to work it must have caused excess pressure making the loud noise. I replaced the chopper and now the dishwasher is very quiet again. To replace I took out the baskets and four screw on the big screen and one more screw on the chopper cover then I had to pull on the chopper with moderate force and install the new one . Then I put back the covers and basket. . . Very easy

First and most important.. TURN OFF THE POWER! The control is powered constantly (both shock hazard and damage to the new part. Open the door, and remove the screws behind the plastic trim that houses the control (mine had six). carefully pull the trim forward (do not stress the wires). the unit is held in place by 2 or more screws (need small nut driver). remove and the unit lifts free. compare the new unit with the old, there are a couple of parts that need to be transferred. Disassemble the old unit; remove the cover holding the wiring harness (be careful; there are three tabs) push them away from the lock and pivot the cover away from the wires (save it for reassembly) Remove the wire plugs (I used a straight blade for this; pushing from the top. The control is labeled; put each plug according to the color. replace the cover. assemble in reverse order, make sure that any pins from the touch panel fit into the holes in the control. tighten replace the trim and screws, check that the door latch is working properly before closing the door. power up and run a test cycle. Not hard does require attention to detail.

Took lower impeller off and cleaned. Replaced the little plastic piece and voile - good as new! Was ready to buy a new dishwasher but thought we would try this first. Working as good as new. What a savings eh? Thank you part select for your great service!

We had to pull the dishwasher out the get the heating element brackets loose underneath. We had to put the new heating element in and then we had to figure out which code to program in to make it reset. the last one listed on the installation instructions was the one that worked. I think it was heated dry, normal, heated dry. It would be very helpful if the reset instructions were put in the manual by whirlpool. I am very pleased with my part that I ordered from PartSelect. It came within 2 days of placing the order.

Remove power to the machine. My particular installation did not require physically removing water and drain lines. Remove the dishwasher from the cavity. Put a towel or two down on the floor. Lay the washer on its face on the towels and this orients the motor in the up position on the bottom of the washer. CAREFULLY unplug the motor wiring harness but if possible, leave the heating element connection in place as spade connectors tend to lose their grip with multiple engagements. Remove the single bolt located between the motor and stainless bottom of the cavity that locks the motor in place. Leave it in the cardboard shield, that really helps in reinstalling it. CCW rotation of the motor disengages it from its housing. Work the motor straight up and out of the housing. This was the most difficult part of the entire process due to the metal housing not quite clearing the plastic pump housing where they mate, but its do-able. Nothing should have to be forced. Now you have the motor in hand. Be very attentive how and what order you disassemble. Remove the back of the motor housing to block the armature to remove the impeller. DO NOT NICK THE FIELD WIRING IN THE MOTOR. I believe the threads were left hand but I don't remember the rotation. They do tighten in the direction of the motor rotation though. Carefully pry the seal out of the pump housing with many short lifts as to not mar the housing itself. Added a little dishwashing detergent on the outside of the new seal and carefully pushed it into place with the end of my screwdriver. Don't cut yourself on the metal insert in the center of the seal.Reassemble the impeller to the shaft WITH the spacer that comes with the new impeller kit. Make sure the impeller is tightened down completely to the end of the threads to insure proper clearances when reassembled. Don't force or over tighten. You'll feel a positive stop. Reassemble the motor to the housing Lubricate the housing o ring seal on the outside with a VERY small amount of dishwashing liquid lest you create a suds factory on startup. Replace the holding bolt on the pump housing. Reconnect the motor leads and heater element if removed. Stand the washer back up. There will probably be water around the door area from the pump when the machine is returned to the upright position. Reconnect lines and check under the pump housing for leaks while in operation being careful not to get into moving parts or electrical connections. Good luck.

Installed the rubber grommet and the door was fixed.Wish the product was made to lasts,second time in three years the part had to be replaced.

Removed old gasket by pulling it gently from one side to the other, cleaned track where gasket sits, replaced with new gasket by folding in half and beginning in center at top of dishwasher, using strike plate as center guide, working left side then right side, applying pressure with fingers to push new gasket in channel. I did replace the strike plate, but the one provided did not match the one I removed, therefore, was not working properly, so I inserted the old one back in and everything works fine.....no leaks. The instructional YOUTUBE videos on the internet were a big help to watch before beginning the removal and install. Couldn't have been easier and I'm sure I saved about $150 in repair person costs for time and labor only.

I took out the valve by loosing one screw, and to water hoses that were connected to valve with scrunchy metal things that came off with pliers. I read the part serial number to the guy at PartSelect. I got it in the mail within 3 days. I put it back in the opposite of taking it out. Worked great!

Ordered a new Faucet Adapter! Simple

I removed front bottom cover on dishwasher. The drain pump is on right front side. Very easy to remove and to install a new pump.