DM5K-1C-C1 Magic Chef Microwave - Instructions

Unscrewed the cover of the microwave replaced the blown fuse with the new fuse, plugged in the microwave and tested all functions and everything worked fine. Thx for quick delivery.

First i removed the 3 phillips head screws from the back of the microwave,these hold the wrap around cover in place, then slid the wrap around cover off towards the back side of microwave, next from inside the microwave i removed 1 screw holding the front operating panel, this screw is located staight up from the push button towards the top of the microwave, I pulled the panel out enough to get the broken push button out, then i installed the new push button,then reinstalled the operating panel then the wrap around cover, very simple repair saved a lot of money by replacing the part rather than buying a new microwave.

Pryed face plate away from body and removed broken latch, replaced with new latch/release button (just sets in place) and pressed faceplate back into position. The beauty of all this is, I ordered this part on line, late on a Tuesday evening and had it in hand by Thursday afternoon!
Well done! Thank you!

unscrew microwave's cover,test the fuse which is located at top rear left side, the fuse is inside a plastic tube,if the fuse is burnout,just replace it.

Unscrewed back plate, and replaced bulb

Using a flat-head screw driver, I removed the 1 screw from the small "door" on the back, upper right corner. Once the screw was removed, it allowed the door plate to "pop" open; exposing the old bulb. I removed the old bulb; replaced it with the new one. DONE!

Hi.

I'd be glad to share this repair story - it wasn't too difficult, and it saved a lot of time and money! I'm including model numbers so that anyone who googles these combinations will have all the info they need to get their Magic Chef oven looking like new and working.

I have a 1995 25' Winnebago Warrior RV (Model WCD25RU), and the original built-in Magic Chef 700 watt microwave (no turntable) (Winnebago part 115303-01-000, Magic Chef Model number DM15K-7BS-N) stopped working.

I've tried finding a replacement built-in oven, but there are none out there that fit very well - you'd have to make some modifications to the cabinet opening to accomodate any replacement oven (either make the opening smaller to accomodate a smaller replacement, or make the opening bigger and beef up the support structure to accomodate a bigger, heavier replacement that is rated at a higher wattage, which may or may not be suitable for the existing electrical system and generator).

In any event, buying the replacement parts cost me $135.00. Buying a replacement oven and built-in vents/ducts/brackets would have cost me about $350-$400.00, and would have taken a lot longer, and might have looked ugly in the end.

The light would work when opening the door, but nothing else worked - no clock, fan, nothing else. It turns out that the control board's one-shot thermostatic switch burned out from an over-voltage (surge from the badly running generator, or from a bad RV park connection can't tell which caused it). The moral of that story is that you should get a quality 30amp surge-suppressor and plug it into the outlet inside the electrical cord storage box so it will provide protection against either the generator or an external power source.

I found the replacement board (your part number PS94415, Magic Chef # 51001053R), plus a new bottom tray (plastic white tray your part number PS94528, Magic Chef # 51001213). I took out the old control board, installed the replacement (51001053R), and then took out the old burned plastic tray (the plastic can burn if you place anything not microwave-proof directly on the plastic tray - i.e. a popcorn bag) and replaced it with your tray. Here's how I did the repairs:

1) removed built-in microwave by unscrewing the two phillips screws holding the top-mounted black leuvered plastic vent in place, then unscrewed the remaining 4 phillips screws behind this vent, which hold the top of the microwave/casing/vents in place. Removed the 2 phillips screws at the bottom front of the microwave, which holds the bottom bracket of the microwave in place. Note: All 8 phillips mounting screws are the same size - no need to keep track of where each screw came from.

2) opened cabinet to the left of the microwave and unplugged the microwave cord and shoved the cord and plug-end back through the access hole it came out of.

3) Slid the microwave out of the cabinet opening and onto the dinette table, tilted it onto it's back, then removed the three phillips screws holding the bottom bracket to the microwave, and removed the bracket.

4) Removed the 3 phillips screws in the back of the oven holding the casing in place (one at the top-middle and one on at each mid-side) and pulled the "built-in" casing backwards away from the front of the microwave until it came completely away from the oven, then set it aside. (There are two continous metal clips running top-to-bottom, wich are spot-welded to the inside of each side of the casing even with the front-edges of the casing - these clips secure the front edges of the casing against the sides of the microwave frame).

5) Removed the one sheet-metal screw holding the touch-panel/control board assembly in place against the microwave frame (located at the top of the frame, above and behind the back of the control-board ). Opened the microwave door then grasped both sides of the touch-panel assembly and pulled straight up to disengage the two plastic touch-panel hooks from the sl

The part was delivered at 5 o'clock and by 5:30 the repair was done.

Remove 3 screws on the back. Remove the outer shell. Remove 1 screw behind the face plate and then lift off the front face plate (this does not have to be completely removed for repair.

Remove the broke part. I then cleaned the area to remove all grime.

The new part slids into place. At first I tried ti fit it between the support posts and realized that one post goes on the insid of part and the other outside.

Replace all pieces and your done.

remove 3 screws holding cover, slid cover to the rear, removed screw at top inside of control panel.
lift up control panel to release it. this exposed broken release button. noted position of release button. with finger pushed up part of door that extended inside to release door (what the broken part was suppose to do). also note that the left side of the release button goes over the metal protrusion (small cut for to view placement). the right side goes inside the metal protrusion. reassemble and you are ready to go.

Screwed the new “$40” dollar light bulb back into the recessed socket. The new bulb is much smaller that the original bulb and much harder to get fingers into small area where the bulb went. After several try’s, I got it in.

First I had to remove the microwave from where it was mounted in a cabinet over the stove in the motorhome. Then I had to pry off the bottom part of the guard panel that surrounds the electronic face. Then the broken door release lever came out easily. It was easy to replace with the new one and then I tested it several time to make sure it worked correctly and it does. I then replaced the guard panel and returned the microwave back to it's cabinet in the motorhome. DONE

My Dearest One removed the screws that held the part that covers the bulb; removed the old bulb, put in the new bulb and replaced the cover.
The whole operation took less than 5 mins.
Thank you.

Took out The Three screws holding on the outter shell. Removed the screw holding on the front panel. Replaced the door release button. Put front panel back on. Then replaced the outter shell. Total time to do the repair was about 20 minutes.

I pulled the control panel out, slid the door release out of where the tabs held it in, slid the new one into place (noticing the new one had reinforcement where the old one did not), and pushed the control panel back.

removed the "cowling"

remove 3 screws hols assembly together,took out old door realease and replaced with a the new one.

Works great