Models > DLW330RAW (PDLW330RAW) > Instructions

DLW330RAW (PDLW330RAW) Amana Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DLW330RAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DLW330RAW
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tub would not stop spinning--brakes broke from bolts

  • Customer: GARY from VILLA RIDGE MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Unpluged electric, diconnected dicharge hose from wall drain, disconnected water lines from rear of washer and at wall hose connection, removed lower front panel, removed large front panel, disconnected hoses at motor(put towels at hoses to catch water leakage)THEN-took washer to the garage and tuned up side down. Removed front two tub springs, removed (4) motor bolts, removed electrical harness from motor, remove and replaced new brake pads. NOTE:brake pads need to be somewhat driven(pushed hard) into brake pad slots. Also it was easier to install the rear pad by removing the 4" knock-out at the side of the washer. Somehow reinstall the knock-out to keep mice and animals from entering the interior of the washer. THEN- reinstall all items in reverse order. Any one mechaniclly minded can replace the brake pad. My wife and I saved lots by doing the replacement myself. THE END. Good job Gary Final note:besure to intall the drive "v" belt around the 2" pulley wheel.Very important.

Loud noise/Washer tub doesn't spin

  • Customer: Steven from Lyndonville NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First remove the bottom front access door. The helix drive nut and pulley were both chewed up. I pushed the pulley up into the brake assembly to make sure it released properly. Mine released and the drum spun freely (I had my 8 yr old assistant turn the drum first). The helix nut turned with the drum so I assumed the transmission was good to go. Once my drive nut and pulley came in (two days), [UNPLUG WASHER AND DISCONNECT WATER] I took the top front cover off and lifted the top up and back on it's hinges. Next I disconnected the motor wiring harness, the bleach tube, the fill hose, the six drum springs, and the drain hose from the pump. Pulled the drum out of the shell and flipped it upside down. I took off the helix drive nut and removed the 8 bolts that hold the "milk stool and bearing assembly" and motor to the drum, also 2 screws that go into the plastic reservoir. I raised the milk stool enough to get the pulley out. (Belt was good) Put in new pulley and pushed the milk stool back down. (I was careful to keep the bearing on the shaft splines). Put the belt back on the pulley and idler. Put in all the bolts and put back together in reverse order. I recommend starting with the back drum springs, that's how I did it and it was easy. About an hour. Good luck.

Washing machine was vibrating excessively.

  • Customer: Michael from Canton GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I had to take the entire tub assembly from the machine to replace the milkstool which had been crushed by the weight of over-loading the washer. It took about 2 & 1/2 hours to complete the job, but it was well worth the effort to save the expense of replacing the appliance. Part Select provide the right part as promised and saved me a lot of money. Thank you for your service.

Drain Hose had a crack and leaked

  • Customer: Bernard from Pinellas Park FL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front panel; loosened hose clamp at pump; removed existing drain hose. Easy part.
Installed new hose at pump and tightened hose clamp. Somewhat difficult.
1. Your hose design should be solid flexible rubber hose instead of corrugated type. Had rough time snaking hose to the pump.
2. Your future designs should have rubber hose or hard piping to the exit hole on the back panel and terminated in a male fitting, then connect flexible hose from fitting to drain line. Similar to "hot & cold " water connections.
3. For future customers- care should be taken installing the "black" portion ; it kinked on me 2 or 3 times because you have to keep rotating the entire hose to keep the "black" portion straight.

Idler wheel seperated from bushing,snap ring came off

  • Customer: William from Westmoreland NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First always unplug appliance.Then I shut off the water.I took the front off the washer.Saw the idler was the problem.Ordered parts and new belt.Removed motor assy,and removed pump.Checked impellors and pump bearing.Installed new parts for idler.Installed belt.Re-installed pump to motor,then re-installed entire assy.Turned on water and ecectricity.Ran complete cycle to test.Re-installed front cover.

no cold or cool water only hot

  • Customer: Linda from Carlos MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
It was so simple I don't think I even need to explain. Couple of screws in and out and done. Saved big money by doing the repair myself...I was surprised how quickly the part arrived. I was able to access from the back of my machine. Did not have to remove the top. Very easy thanks

Washer was leaking on floor

  • Customer: Walter from Cairo GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First, I printed all the diagrams on the Partselect site so I would know how things went together.

I removed the two screws at the bottom of the front panel and removed the panel by pulling the bottom out allowing the top to come off he retaining clips. I then used pliers to remove the two springs holding the front of the washer tub to the base. Then I removed the spring that attached to the idler arm and the motor. (I also took digital pictures of everything in case I forgot the routing of the belt, the location of springs, etc.) Next I loosened the clamps holding the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump. The water loss was minimal as my washer was still functioning, but I could see that if the washer died with a full tub, there could be a lot of water. I then slipped the 2 hoses off the pump. Next I removed the four bolts holding the motor/pump combo from the frame. I unpluged the electrical connector (on the top left side of the pump....it has a locking tab on top that must be depressed to remove it). Then tilt the bottom of the motor/pump combo up and forward to allow it to come out of the machine. Please note the routing of the belt for replacement later.

The pump has 3 screws (torx) that attaches it to the motor. In most cases, it seems the pump will seize to the motor shaft due to the heat of the motor over time. Since the pump is bad anyway, I simply chiseled it off the motor shaft using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer. It is tempting to put the screwdriver between the motor pulley and pump, but this will only bend the pulley.......I know from experience. It will take several good whacks but eventually the pump will come off. In my case the pump had leaked enough that the end of the motor shaft was slightly pitted and corroded. I took a file and cleaned up the end so the new pump would slide on properly. I also put a small amount of machine oil on the motor shaft and wiped it good just to make the pump easier to mount. I then slide the pump on the motor shaft, replaced the 3 torx screws (make sure you have the belt in the right position.....one run of it goes inside the pump mounting stud.) I then reversed the process.....remounted the motor/pump combo, reattached the power connector, replaced the belt on the pulley beneath the drum, reattached the idler tension spring, reattached the 2 hoses and clamps, and reattached the 2 drum holddown springs. I then inserted the top of the front panel on the two clips and tilted it back down into place and replaced the 2 screws at the bottom front.

All in all, it was very easy..........taking only an hour or so. My belt was still in good condition, but I could advise you to go ahead and replace the belt while you are in there. It also could be practical to replace the pulley on top of the pump, as it is easy to bend. I did bend mine, but managed to straighten it back out.

After completing the repair, the washer works perfectly with no leaks.

Washer broke belt & Idler pulley

  • Customer: Audie from Lexington AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
First removed all screws with a nutdriver then lifted the body from the base. Removed the two hoses at the pump (be ready for excess water). Removed the 9/16 bolts (4) to drop the motor assy. I also took off the two front balance springs to have easy access. I at this point was able to remove the pulley and put new belt & pump on the motor. Remember to watch carefully to align belt. removing the idler pulley is a no brainer. Took about 45mins. to complete, a no pro job!!

Hose was in contact with bracket for tub causing the hose to wear thru.

  • Customer: Joseph from Groveville NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Very easy repair. Removed the lower front panel of the washing machine (two screws) with nutdriver.

Removed hose clamp with pliers. Removed hose from machine. Replaced hose and ran thru a full cycle to check for leaks.

No leaks, back in business in under an hour. This time includes going out to garage and gather the two tools needed for the job and cleaning up the water that came out of the hose during the removal process.

A small river running out the bottom front.

  • Customer: Terry from Brentwood CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
I used my three jaw slide hammer to remove the pump from the motor. How are other people getting it off? Pump made alot of rubbing noise after installation. I tried pushing it on farther and also prying it back off a little with no luck. It's really cheap looking and I was scared of breaking it. The thing wasn't leaking so I called it good....

Bad tube seals and bearings

  • Customer: DAVID from SANDY HOOK CT
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Disassembled washer as per directions with seal kit. Removed inner tub. Cut both tub shaft bearing in half; punched out from outter tub. Installed new bearings using .5 inch threaded rod, washer and bolts. Installed new seal on inner tub shaft. Installed inner tube. Re-assembled washer.

Had to pull the motor to change the belt

  • Customer: John from Nesconset NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged washer from power source. Dissconnect the water supply. Take off lower panel. Undo big spring. Remove 4 bolts that hold the motor. Unplug the motor. remove motor and belt. While on the bench I regreased the Idler pulley. then reverse the procedure to reassemble

Water Inlet valve wouldn't work for cold water

  • Customer: DAVID from ORLAND PARK IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Water inlet valve was different than the one shown on web photo. The hose supplied was the wrong size so I had to use the original old hose. Wire harness had to be modified since the electrodes were on opposite sides of the valve. Overall I was disappointed with the part and the service.

Pump worn out - Leaking

  • Customer: Charles from Portsmouth VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
Part received was correct (5 days ARO). Removed motor assy from unit (left wires connected). Found drive belt was also worn out & obtained a new one locally. Seperated old pump from rusted motor shaft using 2 screwdrivers. Had to use a file to lightly "polish" rust off motor shaft to install new pump. On-line parts diagram helpful in getting belt properly alinged to idler pully. Machine now runs smoothly, dosn't leak and sound like new. Wife happy (me too)!

Leak from seal on pump

  • Customer: Jim from Courtland VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 1 of 1 people found this instruction helpful
This washer was "professionally" repaired six months ago....that being said, I found two of the three Torx screws holding the pump to the motor to be lying inside the cabinet. This allowed the pump to move and wallow out the seal. Replaced the pump and replaced the screws correctly. No leaks, no problems. Pump is an exact replacement from PartSelect and ease of installation was no problem. Would suggest if you are going to replace the pump, order the three screws and replace them too.
All Instructions for the DLW330RAW
46-60 of 135