DLL2450RAL Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

I did not have an actual repair. I simply replaced the lint filter that dropped into the receptacle. However, what I want to mention is that the part was available as old as the dryer is and there was a nice photo to scale of the replacement part so that I was sure I was getting the correct piece. A great site to obtain parts from my experience.

Just replaced it with the new one

There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.

Watched the video on YouTube and everything went great!

I only ordered a lint filter with frame but wanted to let other's know that ordering from your site was extremely easy and the shipping was extremely fast!! I received my order with 2 days of placing my order. Thank you!!

the replacement part was easy to replace but remembering how the belt went back on took alittle more time..

The repair for the average untrained mechanicslly inclined " first off google directions/instruction picture step by step " we took off the wrong part which made this job difficult there is a part on the back that was removed prior to guided directions, called parts select they are awesome"our belt was delivered the next day on a 3 day weekend I was suprised second correct part sent anyone who took on this job , they will appreciatte all this . the belt was fairly easy to repair just do as directed follow guidelines. difficulty detaching a part that never should be"pain in the a" order your part from this company they rock" and picture guide and specific direction guideline @ this dryer has well outlived the money spent still kicking strong after several years of use hotpoint dryer

I watched Youtube videos on how to troubleshoot the dryer but I did not go through all the testing of the fuses and the heat sensor. I did not want to take the dryer apart if I didn't have to. I turned on the dryer and looked into the bottom grate and saw no glow from the igniter (it should be very bright) so I started there. (The Youtube videos test the igniter last). Unplug the dryer. Turn off the gas. Pry off the grate. Unplug the igniter connector and set the multimeter to tone on continuity. There was no tone so it was bad. I used a flashlight that I put inside next to the gas valve to see. Remove the top flat cover on the burner assembly, 2 screws. (Had to do all this laying on my belly in front of the dryer. Very uncomfortable.) Remove the old igniter from the clamp. It fell apart as I took it out. Now the tricky part: The clamp is very tight and the igniter is delicate. I tried to slide it in from the top holding it between my index and middle finger and lining up the slots for the igniter 'wings'. I struggled with that until many-swear-words-later, I decided to slide the igniter in sideways. Put the 'wing' into the clamp's left side opening and then gently but firmly squeezed the 'barrel' into the clamp. It worked. Plug in igniter plug, put burner cover back on carefully without banging igniter, turn on gas, plug in dryer. Turn on dryer. Igniter should be very bright when it lights. It takes a little while to heat up the heat sensor that will open the gas valve and the burner should light.

followed video direction ,pulled part ,compared to part on-line ,ordered part delivered in two buisness days and installed ,back in service .very simple and I will shop at your sight again and tell friends and family as well

I noticed the original blower wheel was worn, the hole for the motor shaft was reamed out and the blower was not spinning with the motor. Air was not being circulated so the clothes were not drying well. Replacing the wheel was relatively easy. I did see other people commenting on the difficulty of getting the drive belt re installed properly. I noticed a small "lip" bent into the motor frame, and found the arm for the belt tensioner would fit into this lip and it held it out of the way while I reinstalled the drum and reouted the belt onto the motor pulley. Once the belt was in place, I gently let the tensioner out of its holding position and everything went back into place nicely.

Deftly removed the old lint trap and placed the new frame in place. It worked perfectly. Hands only repair.

I had to take the top panel off of the dryer which is 2 screws inside the dryer door jam. Then the front panel had to come off which was 2 screws inside the dryer above the tumbler. One on each side. Then it lifts off of two hooks at the bottom. Then the left panel (left if you are looking at the front of the dryer) had to come off which was a few screws on the back, a few on the front, and one on the bottom. Once I had the panels off, I unscrewed the blower wheel which is one screw. I took the blower wheel cabinet loose but didn't remove it. There is a metal collar that holds the motor to the bracket. Pull it off from the top. Unplug all the wires attached to the motor. I took a picture of the wire connections with my phone for reference with the new motor. Remove the belt. The motor should pull out towards you. The new motor comes with a pulley. Put the pulley on the motor and tighten locking screw. Put new motor in dryer and replace the metal collar. Connect all wire connections. Reconnect the blower wheel and tighten all screws to the blower wheel housing. Now, I plugged the dryer back in and tested it without reattaching the belt. Know that if you do it this way, the dryer will not stay on because there is a relay switch that is engaged only when the belt is on the pulley and there is tension on the belt tensioner. When the dryer motor worked properly, I replaced the belt and put all the panels back on. Plugged it up and it worked beautifully.

The info from your web site was helpful. I had never taken a dryer apart and the instructions made the job easy. Used socket set to remove the back panel and top control panel. Then used a phillip's screwdriver to remove the two screws that hold the top of the dryer; these screws are accessed by opening the door to the dryer. To remove the front of the dryer remove to the two screws that are located at the top upper corners where front panel meet the side panel. Once these two screws are removed, remove the belt from around the drum and lift the drum out. The drum bearing is located on the back of the drum; remove the remnants of the old bearing and replace it with the new one. Retrace your steps to put the dryer back together. To get the belt back on track you will have to remove the lower back panel to access the belt drive and tension pulley. It is not difficult. God bless you.

disassembled chassis of dryer, unbolted top, lifted top to expose drum. bolted top back on. resumed repair next morning. unbolted top. lifted drum (it moved up and down about 1 inch) and got new belt around it. rebolted top down. tipped dryer to its back. unbolted and removed panel at bottom, exposing drive motor and tensioner spring. positioned belt around drive motor spindle and tensioner spring. replaced panel. reconnected dryer to electricity. reconnected gas using new flexible connector.

inserted the latch into the opening in the front face of the dryer