Models > DLG330RAW (PDLG330RAW1) > Instructions

DLG330RAW (PDLG330RAW1) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DLG330RAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DLG330RAW
76-90 of 405
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

Load noise from dryer

  • Customer: Mike from Pacifica CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Had to figure out how to open the dryer - bottom screws in front and work up, removed the drum and found the fan blade was broken. Had some difficulty removing the fanblade from the motor shaft but after that the new one was easy to install. I did need help to place the belt and drum back into place. as one person has to hold the belts on the pulley while the other adjusts the belt while putting the drum back into place.

Air duct assembly broken.

  • Customer: Thomas from Summerville SC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I used a large flat head screwdriver to lift top up, then located 2 screws in the top right and left hand side to remove front. Remove the three Phillip Head Screws that holds the assy in place slide out. Mine had 2 metal pieces with wires. I simply unplugged and took metal pieces and installed in the new assy. Remove excess lint put front back on lowered lid and done! 15-20 minutes

Cycling Thermostat Failed

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Morris IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
DIAGNOSTICS: Unplug dryer to reset controls. Remove lower cover. Plug back in. Start dryer. If flame starts and goes out in a few seconds, probably the cycling thermostat (located centrally near bottom of dryer) is bad. It fits in the center of the thermostat heater (not replaced). Use the on-line schematic. I reset the controls (as above) again and jumpered the cycling thermostat. This time the flame stayed on. I turned off dryer before High Limit Thermal Fuse could blow out. Only a trained electrician should do the above.
REPAIRS: Decided to remove main cover, to get better angle on thermostat screws. Unplugged. Removed door first. Be gentle with wires. Be careful with drum, it will simply fall out if jarred. Remove two screws for cycling thermostat. Remove wires, replace cycling thermostst. Reassemble. Be sure drum is still on rollers on back and anti-friction strips in front.
SHORTCUT: If you use an articulated socket wrench on the thermostat screws, you can save your self the trouble of removing the front cover, door, and possibly drum.

At the end of the drying cycle, the clothes had a bunt smell. I checked the lower compartment of the dryer and found the limit thermostat in two pieces and realized this could be the culprit. I was able to snap them together, but this did not work, therefore a new stat

  • Customer: James from Mokena IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First I unpluged the dryer, removed the two screws from the bottom access panel. I used a small socket to remove the screws securing the limit stat to the burner chamber, nut driver was too long.
I installed the new limit stat with the two screws and attached the two leads. Plugged in the dryer and conducted a test run, burner ignited. I turned the dryer off and replaced the access panel.

Noisy drum support rollers

  • Customer: Remy from Santa Maria CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1-Unplugged drier
2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws
3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws
4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.
5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws
***** at this point the drum is exposed *****
6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!
7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.
8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller.
9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws
10- reinstall new roller support
11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!
12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!
13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part!
14-repeat for the other drum roller.
**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!
**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it *****
15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.
16-re-plug the drier and test

broken lint screen

  • Customer: Marlo from DeKalb IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
took one out - put new one in

BELT WAS BROKEN

  • Customer: Richard from Kealakekua, AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Unable to find a repair manual or accurate diagram, I forged ahead and removed the top and front panels of the dryer. It took two tries to figure out how to thread the belt (nine of my ten thumbs kept getting in the way!), but after a coffee break, the job came together, and I've taken the clothesline down!

Dryer got hot then heat would shut off

  • Customer: Douglas from Fernley NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Sensor is in the front lower left. Gas off, electicity off. Removed two screws for the filter, pry/lifted the top up and taped it too the overhead cabinet, removed two screws inside top of front panel, lifted pandel with door closed staight off. Two screws to remove the flame sensor braket. unplug the old sensor install the new one and reverse everything. With others suggestions I purchased temperature switches etc. but the radiant flame sensor was the problem. I now have some spare switches for future. Excellent company and very quick service. Oh, Sears wanted 200.00 just for the service call, I live rural.

Replaced door switch

  • Customer: Joseph from Colts Neck NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.

Door would not stay shut

  • Customer: Eli from North Stonongton CT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
Took off the four screws to get to the female clip and used pliers to squeeze it out. Next was using pliers to pinch out the male connector and place the new one in.

Door wasn't staying closed

  • Customer: Dale from Livingston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
popped up top of dryer -- With pliers squeezed clips on inside of latch - - with screw driver pryed latch out -- just pused new latch in.......... Thanks to parts select for sending part sooo fast.. wife was happy.. Thanks, Dale

Idler Pulley Bearing froze

  • Customer: Maure from Sparks NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First of all I would not have done this if it wasn't for
your website. Using the schematics to figure out
the right parts was easy. It was also helpful in the
actual repair process. I have added your website
to my favorites in my browser. The parts arrived in 3 days and I live in Reno. Great Website.

M.B.

Lint Duct Assemby Replacement

  • Customer: Charles from Baltimore MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
(Used joe From Beacon Falls Instructions)
UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST
1. There are two bolts on the back of the dryer that connect the control panel and the dryer. Remove these bolts with a socket wrench and their brackets. Set aside.
2. Lift up rear of dryer top a few inches to locate two metal flanges on the front top of the dryer. Lower the back side. Now on the front of the dryer, insert the flat head of a large screwdriver (cover flat head with rag to prevent scratches) where the flanges are located and pry upward, one side at a time. It does not take much pressure until the top “pops” open. Repeat prying motion on other side of front dry to free the top.
3. The top of the dryer is now loose and can be slid backwards enough to see down the front of the dryer. Locate two screws (one on each side) inside the front panel a few inches down. Use the same socket size with wrench to remove these two screws.
4. Notice there are three wires that connect for the light on the right hand side. With care, these can remain attached. Alternately, take the time to write down the color and order and remove these now
5. Pull the front panel towards you slightly and lift up. The front panel will now come free and can be set aside. If you did not remove the wires, the front will need to be propped up close enough to the dryer so that the wires are not ripped out.
6. Remove the three Phillips Head screws located inside the dryer drum that attach the Lint Duct Assembly. Pull out the old assembly. Vacuum out if necessary.
7. Insert the new Lint Duct Assembly and secure with the three screws.
8. Reattach dryer front and top.
9. Done.

dryer only buzzed when started

  • Customer: Gregory from Holland MI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 3 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
This amana dryer didn't have the lower panel with screws. Instead, I removed the brackets in the back and found that the whole top would separate from the rest of the body (except for wiring, of course.) There seemed to be screws holding the top to the base in the front, but these are just guide posts. There are two spring clips in the front that you can pop loose with a putty knife.

Then there are two screws inside that fasten the front to the rest of the frame. Once I removed these, and the electrical connections to the door switch and the light bulb, the whole front came of just by tilting it forward and pulling the front panel up off of metal tabs on the base.

The rest of the repair went smoothly per other descriptions.

Squeaky Maytag Dryer

  • Customer: Brian from Boyertown PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
I went to RepairClinic.com & FixYa.com for some great advice. I searched the internet for the parts. PartSelect.com was the most inexpensive. Delivery was good. Using the repairman's manual I found on the internet I followed the steps to remove each panel, in order. The wiring was the most bothersome, but okay to resolve; write it down and pull it off! I don't think the rollers, in the back, were bad. The tension idler was extremely worn. I tightened the tension idler bracket at the base. I did need to use an O-Ring Spreader to get all the rollers off and on. Although there were more panels to remove than older models, it was easier! Wrap the belt around the drum before reinstalling. The belt will loop around the drive & tensioner relatively easy. Replace the rubber seal around the drum & replace all the panels. Things are quieter now than I can remember in a long time.
All Instructions for the DLG330RAW
76-90 of 405