Models > DLE330RAW (PDLE330RAW) > Instructions

DLE330RAW (PDLE330RAW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DLE330RAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DLE330RAW
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dryer temperatures appear too hot at all settings

  • Customer: David from Crossville TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
removed lower front panel, two screws on bottom edge. Limit thermostat located on lower portion of vertical panel at rear of dryer. I was able to detach the two wires and removed the two thermostate retention screws with a nut driver. Since I could only operate with one hand, I taped the new thermostat in place lining up the screw holes in order to replace the two hex screws. reattached the two wires and front panel.

Noisy and not drying the clothes

  • Customer: Pietro from Fairfax VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
This was my first time repairing a dryer. If I knew when I started the project what I know now, it would have been an easy repair. First, you should know that the series number (used for selecting a wiring diagram) is the last two digits of the unit's serial number (not model number). In my case, the series number was 11. The hardest part for me was figuring out how to take the dryer apart. I made the mistake of starting with the top instead of the front. In fact, I removed the control panel and disconnected all the wires, labeling them carefully, and creating a diagram, so i could put it all back together later. I now realize I could have left that all together and just lifted the top up in the front without removing it. That knowledge would have saved hours of work, so I hope it helps someone (prop up the front a few inches and start by removing the panel on the lower front, then remove the screws on the main front panel, and then pull out the bottom of that panel toward you until the top of that front panel disengages from the top of the dryer - the rest is obvious). So it turns out there were two separate problems: 1) the blower wheel had broken completely off of the motor so it wasn't spinning - this is why hot air wasn't being pulled through from the heater in the back of the dryer; 2) the pulley on the spring-loaded lever arm attached to the motor was squeaking due to lack of lubricant. So the solution was to replace the blower wheel and spray WD-40 in the pulley (and also, for good measure in the roller bearings that support the drum in the back of the dryer). Most of the time spent on the repair was just due to my own mistakes. In particular, once I got everything back together after the repair, it stopped squeaking and there was good airflow, but it wasn't heating. I spent an entire day trying to troubleshoot the lack of heat. I tested and bypassed all of the thermostats and heater fuses and the heating element still wouldn't come on. I even managed to accidentally ground one of the leads from the fuse and had to replace a melted wire connector (trip to the Shack). In the end, it turned out that a wire which had been accidentally disconnected from the main power cord to the dryer, I had put back in the wrong spot. There is L1, L2, and neutral going into the dryer. I had the heater on the same circuit as the motor and other stuff. Once I traced the wiring diagram back, I realized this and corrected it by putting the heating circuit back onto L2. Now it "hums like a Singer". If everything had gone smoothly, instead of being a 2-day repair, it would have been a 2 hour repair. 2 hours instead of 1 because to get the leverage I needed to remove the old blower nut, I had to actually pull the motor assembly out of the dryer and move it to my workbench. Someone who is strong or more limber or has better tools might be able to skip that step, reducing the time by about 45 minutes. Good luck!

replacing broken lint filter

  • Customer: Paula from Lawrenceburg KY
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Ordered new lint filter, which did not quite fit. Called company and was told that filter had been redesigned to remove the felt surround, and that sometimes the new filters did not seat well. It turned out that the exhaust pipe was filled with packed-down lint causing the new filter not to go all the way into the slot. My husband surmised that that was why the first filter broke because volunteers at the Humane Society adoption center were trying to shove the filter into a groove that no longer worked. He took off the top, the front, and one other piece before removing all of the lint he could reach. Once that was done, the filter fit fine.

no heat

  • Customer: Janet from Portland OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I first removed the two front screws on the front cover located on the lower half of the dryer using a flash light looking on the left side all the way to the back you will see two hex screws removing them will now let you wiggle the heating element back & fourth while pulling down it will come out in just a few seconds - then with your digital camera take a picture of the still wired heating element as to a clear reference for wiring the new element - first Aline the new element in the same direction as the old element and transfer them one by one check camera for assurance that you have done it correctly and re-reinstall in the reverse order

also I would recommend taking off that black plastic blower chute and cleaning it assuringly the best performance of air flow

Dryer would stop during cycle and then not restart. When I started the dryer, there was a short buzz sound as the motor started.

  • Customer: Bob from Denver CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the bottom front cover attached with two screws, then the main front cover attached with two screws. I then removed two more screws holding the top in place, detached three wires and raised the top lid. I held the top lid out of the way with a cord tied off to a cabinet above. I then removed four screws holding the front support panel in place and set it to the side with wires still attahced. Then I slid the dryer belt off the drum and removed the drum. Next I removed the cover of the fan wheel by removing several screws. This allowed me to unscrew the fan wheel (reverse threaded) by anchoring the motor shaft with a wrench and using a large socket to turn the nut end of the fan wheel (then was no snap ring). I then popped off the two clamps holding the motor in place and removed the motor. The only tricky part about assembly was putting the belt back on the pulleys once the drum was installed. You can't see the pulleys once the drum is installed so it is done by feel.

old latch broke

  • Customer: Jim from Germantown WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I inserted the clip

the glide bracket had been warn nearly in half

  • Customer: Rita from brewster WA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
1. I removed the lower front panel.
2. Carful remove the front door making not of which wires whent were of the switch
3. Removed the front bulkhead.
4. Drilled out the rivits that held the bracket in place.
5 Use a pop rivit gun and 1/8 in pop rivit and washer.
6 Installed the felt pad and the drum guide.
7 Put the whole thing back together.

I love your web site the exploded diagrams make fixing my dryer quite easy. I do it. so for under $50 my dryer is almost like new.

broken air duct

  • Customer: Bruce from Harrison OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the front cover and door then found A sock made it through the filter and broken air duct. It locked up the blower so I pulled out sock installed air duct . only problem I had was I didn't realize new filter came with air duct and I bought one so now I have 2 .If you need a filter and a duct remember a filter comes with it and doesn't cost enough to pay returning it.

Squeaky belt

  • Customer: Michael from Marietta GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removal of the entire 2 front panels
Removal of the heat exchanger into the drum
Removal and replacement of the belt
Reinstallation of the heat exchanger, and both front panels

Dryer making a loud squeaky noise.

  • Customer: David from New Albany IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Easy repair and done all from the front. Turn off the power at the breaker. Make sure the power is off. Remove 2 screws holding on the lower panel. Then remove 2 screws holding on the door panel. (Pay notice to the order in which the 3 door wires will get re-connected. The 2 light bulb wires probably can go either way.) Then remove 4 screws to a large bracket that supports the front of the drum. (Set these parts aside as you take out the screws.) Then remove the 2 screws from the top panel. Reach in under the drum and release the tension off the belt. It's easy to release, but sorta mind boggling to put back on. Maybe practice that once while it's fresh in your mind. When the belt is off the motor pulley, then lift out the drum. Vaccuum out a lint blanket if you have one. You'll see the 2 drum support rollers and the belt tensioner roller. I didn't know which was squeaking so I replaced all 3. Same method, use ring pliers to take off the retainer ring, remove old, wipe off dust, install new rollers, replace ring. Note the washers are different so put them back on in the same order as removed. Make sure the gasket on the lint assembly gets tucked nicely into the blower housing when you reassemble. Easy repair. If you do pull the dryer away from the wall, replace your flexible exhaust vent with the fire resistant aluminum version.

dryer would shut off during dry cycle. It was difficult to rotate drum manually

  • Customer: Dave from Bend OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
I looked at your on-line diagrams (exploded views) and basically used them as dis-assembly info.

I removed the bottom panel, followed by the front panel, the drum holders and drum.

Toughest part was the spring clips holding the motor in place,,,, but notes on your site from other folks doing the same motor replacement solved that one,,,,,, I used a flat bladed screwdriver and pliers to manipulate the clips both off and on

Inner diamiter of roller support worn larger than pin

  • Customer: Stephen from Franklin WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
1. Remove bottom sill plate with two screws
2. Remove door, watch for the wire.
3. Remove tub retaining "ring" 4 screws
4. Pull tub forward
5. Pull off the old support roller using the snapring pliers
6. grease the new roller and pins (do both sides)

Reverse it and put it back together and its good as new!

dryer kept shutting off motor bearings where failing causing the motor to labor too much and the machine would shut down.

  • Customer: Michael A. from Wolcott CT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the bottom front panel. Then the door I marked the wires to the shut off switch on the door and removed the switch from the door. Next was the lint screen housing and duct work that goes to it. Then I had to reach under the drum and take the belt off of the motor pully and tensioner so I could remove the drum. I removed the drum. I then marked all the wires I had to disconnect. I took the fan housing front panel off. I held the belt drive end of the motor shaft with the pipe wrench, i could have used an open end or an adjustable wrench also. I used a 7/8 six sided socket on the plastic fan nut on the front of the shaft so that if it was hard to loosen I would have a better chance of not rounding the nut. I removed the fan and the back of the housing, unplugged the motor, and removed it. The clips that hold the motor to the motor bracket are a little tricky, I used a screw driver to remove them. I then replaced the motor and put everything back together. One hint you should know is to make sure you mark the drum front so when you put it back in you get it right the first time. I fits in both ways and will go back together but it won't turn free and you'll have to take it all apart again. I tried it by hand both ways and was able to catch the mistake before I put it all back together, but I could have put it together wrong.

Door not remaining closed

  • Customer: Cheryl from LAS VEGAS NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I watched your videos - they're great! The strike was installed in less than a minute and voila - the dryer was as good as new!

Progressively louder squeaky noise when drying

  • Customer: George W from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the instructions found on this site. The hardest part was figuring out how to release the clamps at the front of the dryer so I could remove the top.

The key was to unbolt the clamps at the back of the dryer first, then to use a putty knife to release the two clamps at the front of the dryer that hold the top to the front.

The rest was easy by following the steps already listed on this site and removing the two front pieces, then the drum and replacing the parts. Putting it back together was simple since I placed things in order and had taken pictures with my cell phone as I went through the process.

The time I took, included vacuuming the inside of the dryer thoroughly. Now it runs like new.
All Instructions for the DLE330RAW
46-60 of 445