DLE330RAW (PDLE330RAW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

Disconnect power supply. remove two 5/16" machine screws from bottom front cover, pull out and down cover will pop out. open door and remove lint screen. Remove screws from top of dryer and pop it off and get out of the way. Now remove front panel and lint screen body. there are screws inside of dryer for screen body. Make sure to take photos of wires or make a diagram so you put them back correctly. Now you can remove drum and see pulleys. This is all pretty self-explanatory. Just re-assemble in reverse. Whole project takes maybe 45 minutes.

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

Turn off dryer 220V breaker at panel. Remove front kick panel (two 5/16 hex screws at lower corners). Check continuity of high limit thermal fuse with meter; no continuity: fuse blown. Remove two wire clips with pliers. Remove fuse with nut driver (two 1/4 hex screws). Install new fuse. Replace two wires. Replace kick panel with two screws. Reset breaker at panel. Reset, start timer: dryer has heat.

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

I replaced the two drum support rollers, the idler pulley wheel, and the belt. Replacing support rollers and pulley wheel requires snap ring pliers, to spread apart the tiny retainer ring that holds the wheels onto the shafts. Get a good quality one! The $23 pliers at Home Depot works great. The one I got for $3.99 online was garbage, and caused me to break one of the retainer rings. I'd recommend buying an extra retainer ring before beginning this repair, and practicing using the pliers with it. It's a very delicate operation and you have to have a steady hand. RE the Idler pulley wheel - this was the most likely cause of the squeaking noise. The old one had a deep groove worn into it by the belt, which may have caused it to spin off-balance on the shaft, resulting in the squeaking noise. RE replacing the belt: at first this task looks impossible, because you can't see exactly how the belt is threaded until you fully remove the drum, but you can't remove the drum until you've removed the belt! Put your hands behind and try to feel how it's threaded, before removing the belt. I drew a diagram to help me visualize how the belt is positioned: looking at the drum from the front, imagine the belt running clockwise around the drum, and after it goes across the top of the drum to the right, it threads UNDER the idler pulley wheel, then clockwise around and under the motor shaft, then back under the drum and around (I hope this helps, it's hard to describe in words). To replace the belt you need to first remove the two screws that secure the top panel of the dryer, and lift the top panel up (like the hood on a car). Then the sequence of steps to replace the belt is: 1) slide the belt off the drum, toward the back of the dryer. 2) remove the drum from the machine 3) if belt is still threaded, make a note of how it's positioned 4) Remove the belt completely 5) thread the new belt under the pulley wheel and around the motor shaft as described above, and 6) keeping the belt fairly taught, place the drum back in position and slide the new belt around the drum in the reverse direction, from back toward front. 7) test the belt by rotating the drum a little to ensure the belt and motor are rotating smoothly together. IMPORTANT: the ribbed-rubber inner side of the belt must be in contact with the drum and with the motor shaft. The belt may twist as you're putting it on, so feel it all the way around to make sure it's flat, and untwist it if necessary. Hope this helps -- it will make more sense when you're actually doing it. Though this may all seem complicated, it's actually a fairly simple machine with only a few moving parts, so it's not as hard as I am making it sound. Courage, and good luck!

Took apart front and top panels. Eight screws in total. Removed belt from pulley then drum. Removed both support rollers, idler pulley. Installed new items. Five wires that must be removed and reinstalled. I made diagram of wiring. Drum glides remove easy. Install new ones. It is best to install the belt on drum, then on the pulley. Install all panels.

I researched the online how to video and when the parts came went at like a pro!

for a while the dryer was really loud when on. i took the front cover, and could pin point it to the idler pulley wheel. i would squirt some wd 40 on the wheel just to get by. one day the dryer stopped turning so i thought the belt broke. after following the instructions on this site on now to take off the front panel, and tub holder (the panel that has the lint trap in it, i was able to take out the tub and find that the pulley wheel had broke apart. i ordered the new part and got a new belt at the same time. why not replace while i had it apart. i didnt have snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring so i got 2 small finishing nails that would fit in the holes and was able to pull apart the ring and get it off. i slid on the new wheel, and put the snap ring back on. ii watch the video on how to replace the belt and it was a sinch. the dryer was already apart and to fix it, took about 15 min. for $18 in parts, the dryer has never sounded better.parts select saves me money everytime.

I recently found your site and was pleasantly pleased with your troubleshooting suggestions and repair videos. My dryer was sounding like there was a pair of gym shoes inside bouncing around and your suggestion of the drum support rollers was right on the money. My dryer cabinet came apart a little differently then what the video showed but was workable.
I would like to suggest sending the washers that go in front of and behind the drum support roller with the drum rollers. The washers on my dryer were completely ground down to powder so I drilled out some stainless steel washers I had in my supply of extra parts. These washers are hard to find in a hardware store due to being so thin.
I would suggest to anyone changing these drum rollers to go ahead and order/replace the drum belt and front guides as long as you have the machine apart and had to take these off to get to drum rollers. I have had my dryer maintenance free for 17 years and figured they were probably close to being worn out as well. My front guides were paper thin and the drum belt had lots of cracks.
Total cost of bringing dryer back up to par was only $45.00. Saved at least $180.00 doing myself.

Looked on your wonderful site and found two parts that were listed as 80% the problem. Took a chance and ordered both parts. Husband replaced both parts. And, yeah. . . . . . . . . We had heat. So not sure which one it needed. . . . But, the price of your parts beat the costs of any repair man. Thank you so much. We're drying clothes again!!! Lk

I decided that I would replace the 2 drum support rollers as long as the machine was apart. I watched the video that your company offers ,and the repair went flawlessly.Thanks for the great service

DO WATCH THE PARTSELECT VIDEO ON HOW TO CHANGE A BELT. EVERYTHING I TALK ABOUT WILL BE MUCH CLEARER. I followed the "change a belt video" that partselect had to change a belt, with one exception. DO NOT PRY THE TOP OF DRYER UP. Remove front bottom then front top by removing the screws then tilting the bottom of the front top out toward you. It will drop down, then disconnect wires from front and remove. Remove 2 screws holding down the top and NOW YOU CAN RAISE THE TOP and pull off the bulkhead and pull drum out. The side of the dryer will give a little as you pull out the drum. Remove spring with a pair of needlenose pliers. There is only one bolt holding the idler pulley lever and shaft to the motor bracket. I used a box wrench on the inside and a socket wrench on the outside. I also suggest oil or grease the shaft before you put on the pulley. You will need a retaining ring pliers, a 1/2" retaining ring and two 1/2" washers, all can be puchased at Menards for about $10. Reassemble. The hardest part is sliding the belt back over the idler pulley.

It went great! Information on website helped confirm it was the cycling thermostat. Fast delivery and easy to install. Couldn't believe we repaired our dryer for less than $30.00.

I took off the front panel removed the drum and took off the belt. I then installed new belt on drum then motor. Then installed the front panel.

watch the videos for drum rollers anddrum glides!They are fantastic!I also found the motor idler pulley should be replaced.this repair is not hard and anyone with a little time should be successful.