Models > DLE330RAW (PDLE330RAW) > Instructions

DLE330RAW (PDLE330RAW) Amana Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DLE330RAW parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DLE330RAW
16-30 of 445
Search Instructions
Keep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump". Need help?

motor pulley went bad

  • Customer: Brian from Sedalia MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 28 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
First unplugged unit .2nd took off front cover and removed bottom screws and that allows it to open up and lean back.3rd pryed the motor lock down springs by applying pressure down and out . forth used vise grips to hold motor shaft, while using the 7/8 socket to loosen the blower fan.Last go through steps to put back together.

Dryer lint screen was broken.

  • Customer: Jack from Tabernacle NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 24 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Searched Maytag.com and other sources, only partselect.com had what I needed. Three days after my purchase, our dryer lint screen was again fully functional.

dryer took several cycles to dry

  • Customer: john from east baldwin ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 23 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
I took the front bottom cover off. In the lower left corner in the back of the dryer was the element. I removed the two screws that held it in place. The wires were long enough to reach the front of the dryer with the element for eas of switching. I pulled the element out to the front of the dryer and switched wires. Slid new element in place which looks trickey but it sits right were you need it too so you can get screws in. I put cover back on ran a cycle with no cloths to burn off the element and as good as new.

lint collector plastic holder broken

  • Customer: Todd from Wappingers Falls NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 22 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
Un plug the dryer ***
Pulled the top portion of the dryer off
Used socket to undue two nuts to remove the front panel and unhooked the wires.
unscrewed 3 screws and took out the air duct assembly. Cleaned the dryer of all lint and replaced the air duct with a new one.
Reverse the process.

Dryer would squeal when drying clothes

  • Customer: JOHN from CORPUS CHRISTI TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 22 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for access. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)

Blower fan cracked

  • Customer: Rick from Birch Run MI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 21 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the power cord from the unit. Remove the lower front panel; then the upper front panel including the door (unplug wire to door switch). Then remove the cover on the fan housing. Need to block the motor from turning; I used a stick to jamb the front of the motor; then unscrew the old blower fan and screw on the new one. Then replace the cover and put front panels back on.

Original belt finally gave way.....(15yrs old)

  • Customer: Garrett from Racine WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Simply remove the front panel screws(2) at the bottom of the dryer. Pull bottom of panel outward until it swings free of the top(taking care not to pull the wires out). Rotate out of the way and remove the two left side screws holding the drum plate and snake the belt around the flange. Reinstall those screws and remove the same ones on the right side. Snake the belt behind that flange and reinstall screws. Then all you have to do is run the belt around the motor sheave and the idler pully and your done. Reinstall the front panel.

the door on the unit wouldn't stay closed

  • Customer: john c. from north beach MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 14 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
removed the dryer female part that was broken with needle nose pliers and inserted the new one, on the door i removed one phillips screw and r/r the male piece with the new one and re-inserted the screw. that was all, very easy repair

Dryer drum stopped spinning

  • Customer: Leif from Brighton CO
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Dryer drum stopped but all other elements seemed functional; couldn't afford new dryer. Unplugged appliance & moved it to my garage (more room to move about). Undid base plate w/tools and found belt slack - identified broken idler pully wheel as part to fix. Went online & found part-select, located part & was way happy: $7.00 part + $7.00 shipping; got part 3 days later. Removed broken pully wheel (take off lock-washer, put wheel on, reinstall lock washer). Cleaned out venting elements (huge lint-ball & some sand in blower intake area). Re-attahced base. Back on-line to see "replace dryer belt" instruction sequence; opened lid of machine (while verticle) and positioned belt properly. Located access port (sealed) at base, knocked out the circular metal plate so I could reach in & thread the dryer belt back around motor & idler pulley wheel. Did test spin (manually) to make sure belt properly threaded, in place. Move appliance back to proper location, plugged in & hooked up venting to outside; ran test & SUCCESS!!!! It even seemed to dry better because of the now cleaned venting area. Labor cost = $0, Part cost < $15.00, Time (actual work) bit over 3 hours total.

Drum Not spinning

  • Customer: Dann from Claremont CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
First, I unplugged the dryer. Then I used a flat screw driver to pop the top open. I removed 2 bolts from the front cover and removed the front door cover. I also took pictures of the electrical connector on the door so I would remember how the wires went back on. Then I removed 4 bolts from the front drum guide and lint screen holder. This allowed me to remove the drum & old belt. While the drum was out, I pried an access panel open on the side of the dryer. I then glued the new back felt piece in place. I put the new belt around the drum and re installed it. I re-installed the front guide and front cover re-connecting the door electrical switch. With the access panel open, I attached the belt to the motor. I then plugged it back in and turned it on to verify operation pryor to snapping the top cover back in place. Very easy repair.

Dryer making loud squeeking noises

  • Customer: James from North Kingstown RI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The pully wheel was completely worn down as the belt had cut into it over time. I'm not sure if the lever and shaft needed replacing but since the part was inexpensive I decided to replace it as well as the wheel. The easiest way to access the parts was to turn the dryer on its side and remove the bottom panel of the dryer. This eliminated the need to remove the drum. It was then easy to reach in with a wrench and remove nut and bolt that held on the pulley lever. I also had to remove the spring which was attached to the lever. Next I put the new pully wheel on the shaft of the new pulley lever. The most difficult part of the job was installing retainer clip which holds the wheel on the shaft. This took a little persistance. After this was done it was simple to put the assembly back in place, reattach the spring and tighten the nut and bolt. I then replaced the bottom panel of he dryer, turned it upright and plugged it in. The whole job took just over an hour. One tip: Before removing the old assembly, I took a picture of it with my cell phone camera so I would remember how it went back together.

Multiple long cycles to dry clothes

  • Customer: Chris from Hampton GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Remove 2 screws on the front panel at the bottom of the dryer & remove front panel. Remove the black plastic "duct" from blower to lint filter by removing 3 screws. Heating element is on the back wall of the dryer in the lower left corner. 2 screws hold the heating element to the dryer wall. Remove these 2 screws. Might be a little tight to get back there. Try to be more patient than me. :) The wires on the heating element are plenty long enough to bring to the front & outside of the dryer. Remove screws holding thermostat & fuse to heating element. I wasn't sure if I needed a new thermostat or not, but it wasn't expensive so I went ahead & decided to put a new thermostat on the new heating element. I re-used the fuse from the old element, but they're not expensive either. Just notice how rthe thermostat and fuse are oriented on the old element & put them on the new element in the same orientation. I had to use pliers to get the wires off the old element's terminals. They were a little tricky to get off, but my dryer is over 10 years old. They've been on there a while. Just move 1 wire from old element to new element at a time. That way you don't have as much of a chance hooking up the wires wrong. Put new element in & everything back together. I vacuumed out the lint in the bottom of the dryer. I ran the dryer for over 30 minutes with no clothes in it to break the new heating element in. You're good to go! You CAN do this yourself. It's not a hard repair to do. Don't buy a new dryer or pay an appliance repair guy! Thanks to PartSelect for quick delivery & posting these instructions from other people!!

High pitched squealing noise for about 5 minutes when I first turned the dryer on. As the problem worsened, the squealing became more prevalent and annoying.

  • Customer: Jim from Frisco TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the two sheet metall screws on the front foot panel, removed the four screws holding the door assembly, wrote down the wiring placement for the front door, removed the blower bulkhead assembly by removing one screw in the bottom of the dryer. Removed two screws and propped the dryer top panel up at a 45 degree angle to gain additional clearance. Removed the drum and belt from the front and back seals by applying simple outward pressure. Removed the screw in the bottom of the motor assembly allowing me to reposition the assembly for easy access. Removed bolt holding old Idler arm assembly. Assembled new Idler pulley referring to old assembly. Reversed the process to complete the repair. Note: I found it easier to simply hang the dryer belt over the dryer drum when replacing the drum in the dryer. First you need to place and align the drum then route the belt back to the moter pulley and then over the idler pulley. if you try to put the belt over the motor and then align the drum, it is difficult to keep the belt on the pulley. It might help to draw a diagram of the belt route or obtain the belt route diagram from the website for reference. Very easy job.

Motor would shut off in two or three minutes after starting.

  • Customer: James I from Henderson NV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the dryer front and the drum, then disconnected the wires from the dryer motor and removed it from the motor mount, after installing the new motor in the motor mount the rest was just putting the dryer back together the same way I took it apart, the best way to do this is to print out the diagram from partsselect.com and follow it step by step, this was so easy everybody can do this and save alot of money for the labor and the parts mark-up, try it you all can do it (SO EASY)

The insert-molded nut stripped from the wheel

  • Customer: Ted from Grayslake IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Because the wheel had stopped and the shaft kept turning (junk from child's pocket got in there), the nut stripped itself away from the wheel causing low RPM and low air movement (lazy flame, vibration and clothes not drying)

I had to use a screwdriver to break the wheel away from the center nut and remove the fan. I then removed the air fan housing (3 bolt behind the fan wheel). I used a small pair of vise grips to hold the motor shaft staionary while I used a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the nut that was molded into the fan from the motor shaft. It was harder to get the nut started then I would have thought.

Once complete, I put the fan housing back on and threaded the new wheel on easily. The motor has external fins on it which turn with the shaft-I held one lightly while I threaded the fan on to keep the shaft from turning. Tighten just slightly more than hand tight-don't go crazy-it's threaded to stay tight with rotation. Works great and very quiet now.
All Instructions for the DLE330RAW
16-30 of 445