Models > DLB3400SBLWH > Instructions

DLB3400SBLWH Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DLB3400SBLWH parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DLB3400SBLWH
31-45 of 250
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extremely loud continous noise when drying laundry

  • Customer: wayne from waterloo NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!

latch on door broken, dryer could not function

  • Customer: blanche from Delray Beach FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
I just pressed the latch with my thumb, the latch went in, and voila....job done. Thank you

broken latch

  • Customer: james from bainbridge island WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
snapped in new latch

broken dryer belt

  • Customer: alfred from copperas cove TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
First i removed the lower rear inspection plate to see what the problem was.
next i removed the screws in the front top panel.
next i lift the top back,the rear hinges held it in place.
next i removed the bolts that held the front panel in place,but before i removed the panel i removed the wires that were connected to the front elements and disconnected then,
next i removed the front panel,then i place the new dryer belt over the dryer drum,but first you have to rise the drum up a little to get the belt under it.
next i put all the front panels back in place,make sure you reconnect the wires that you removed earlier.
next i moved to the back panel, there i position the belt over the dryer drum,then i place the belt over the motor drive pulley, then i pull down the tension bar roller to the left and place the belt over it.Then i replace the rear panel in place.plug in the power core and turn it on. finished. After over 35 years this is the first time i had to replace the belt,matter of fact this is the first time i had to replace anything on this dryer, washers will that is a different story. but the dryer runs great maybe for another 30 +years LOL.

Dryer Belt Broke

  • Customer: James from Sylacauga AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the rear access panel (8 - 10 bolts), checked the pullys. Opened the dryer door, removed 4 allen screws at top and lifted the top of the dryer (like a hood on a car). Removed a screw (phillips) on each side (inside) pulled open the front and worked the belt around the drum. Placed belt onto pullys, plugged in checked for proper rotation of drum then unplugged and installed screws and bolts. - Fairly easy, saved a bunch from a service call. I also found 15+ years of lint inside the dryer. Vacumed and cleaned the inside -it even dries faster! Sorry Honey - No new dryer this year - Now can I go hunting?

Dryer would not start

  • Customer: Robert from Santa Barbara CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I checked the power (OK) and removed the four screws that held the timer/controls (upper panels) cover. This revealed a schematic for the dryer that enabled me to determine the door swich was probably the culprit. I pried out the old switch and, sure enough, it was always open (checked with multi-meter). I found the replacement switch easily using the dryer model number and "door switch" search string. Ordered Sunday night, the part came on Tuesday and took 2 minutes to install (no tools needed).

Broken Dryer belt

  • Customer: Bruce from Taylor PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Easy as 1-2-3. I took off the top hinge screws in order to lift up the top of the dryer.

I then took off the front dryer piece with the door intact. The lint filter was in the front door section.

I released the wiring clips to the front of the dryer and lowered the front of the dryer down gently. there is enough slack with the wiring if you disconnect the wirre clips.

I removed the old broken belt. ThenI gently lifted thr dryer drum enough to slid in the new belt with the ridges down. Look for the old belt line (worn area on the drum) and slip the belt up on the drum to that point.

Then I replaced the wiring with clips and put the front of the dryer back together.

Going around to the lower back of the dryer, I unscrewed the back plate where the exhaust comes out. It was 8 screws with a socket.

Once the back was off, I pulled the dryer pully to the right and fed the reamider of the belt through both pulleys ensuring that the ridged side was on the correct side of the pulley. The pylleys match the ridges on the belt. I rleased the tension on the movavle pulley and it was done.

All I had to do was button the back up and do a "dry run" I quick have the drum a half roation from inside the drum with the door open. Then it was all gravy. I was done and saved myself a good deal of money. Look on the net for pics to make thing easier for you. There are people out ther who will NOT charge you for this info.

Lint filter screen was broken

  • Customer: Katherine from Washaington DC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Remove old one, put the new one in!

door would not stay closed

  • Customer: Dorothy from Kingston OK
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 12 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

Door wouldn't stay shut

  • Customer: Catherine from Windber PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 10 of 17 people found this instruction helpful
When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

No Heat--dryer runs--Timer/Heat Selector does not advance

  • Customer: Jose from Dalzell SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
Ok so it finally died. Breakdown is relatively easy. UNPLUG the dryer before doing anything else. Remove the dryer vent plastic hose from the dryer--replace if torn. Remove the screws from the back plate covering the switches. Go to the front of the dryer--open door and locate 2 screws at about 11 and 12 o'clock. After removing these 2 screws you should be able to lift the top off the dryer. Take note of the wiring connections--I took a picture of the wiring from my cellphone just in case. Go behind the dryer and locate the access to the electric motor to remove the belt that spins the drum. There is a wheel/belt tensioner--remove the tension from the belt. You are now ready to lift the drum out. While you have this drum out, now is a good time to vacuum all the lint out. Once the drum is out, you'll see the heating element. If the wiring element is broke, just replace the wiring kit not the entire assemby (save $100). While you're at it replace the high limit and safety thermostats (about $28 for both) very easy to replace--unscrew and just replug the wires back to the original terminal locations. To replace the Timer/heat selector, remove a screw that holds the assembly and plug the wires back per your diagram or better if you took a picture from your cellphone. Assemble in reverse direction. Good luck!

Broken belt and worn bearing

  • Customer: Peter from Winter Haven FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the bearing and belt on a GE DDE6350BBL dryer

My belt broke and landed up in the bottom of the case, therefore no problem removing it.
Having to replace the belt I decided to renew the bearing at the same time.
Detailed instructions, with comments follow for those of you attempting this repair.
Take careful note as you take things apart of what they looked like before you started.

First unplug the appliance. Always unplug the appliance before doing any repair.
With the appliance stood in a space where it is accessible all round begin.
Open the front door and remove the small Phillips screws located at the top of the front panel.
( You have to look upwards to see them, normally four screws )
The cabinet top can now be lifted carefully upwards. It is a good idea to use a piece of
2 x 4 to hold this in a raised position for the time being.
Inside the cabinet on the right at the top, behind the door open switch, remove the two electrical slide connectors from the switch.
Remove the hex headed screws securing the bottom kicking plate, ( four screws )
Remove the two longer hex screws securing the bottom of the front panel, ( two screws )
Look inside the cabinet, each side towards the top there is one hex headed screw securing the top of the front panel to the sides ( two screws )
Hint head of screw faces back of cabinet.
The front panel can now be removed by lifting slightly up and away from the rest of the case. Do not try to move it too far, just turn it through ninety degrees and lean it against something heavy. Hopefully placed there to lean it on before you started.
Using a torx screw bit, remove the three torx screws securing the drum onto the bearing.
( A noise will be heard like something dropping, we will take care of this later.)
Lift the drum out of the case and set it aside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the bearing to the casing.
Lift out the complete old bearing assembly.
Now is the time to thoroughly clean all the parts, before reassembly.
A Hoover with a crevice tool is good for removing most of the lint in and around the case. In severe cases it might be necessary to use a wire brush to loosen the lint.
Look in the bottom of the case and find the spacer, which fell off when you removed the drum. It is circular with a large hole in the centre and six holes around the side.
It is a good idea if you are adventurous, to remove the slide connectors for the heater elements and remove this assembly for cleaning. If you are not adventurous then cleaning it while installed is possible but be careful of the wire spirals, they are fragile

Helpful hint.
At this point take one of the old screws, which secured the bearing into the house.
Take this screw to a good hardware store and ask for two extra screws three inches long with the same thread. Make certain the thread is the same. Bring your new screws home, put them in a vice and saw off the heads, thus leaving two pieces of threaded rod three inches long of the correct thread. Doing this will save you a lot of aggravation later.

To replace the bearing, assemble the new bearing with a small quantity of high heat grease applied to the bearing surfaces. The old circlip can be reused without problem as long as it was not damaged when removing it.

Hint the new bearing is supplied with an 'o' ring in the groove where the circlip goes, this 'o' ring has to be removed before assembly.

If you have removed the heater assembly for cleaning it should be reinstalled now.
Install the new bearing in the casing using the four new screws provided.
Carefully screw your two threaded rods into two of the three holes in the bearing surface.
Locate the spacer plate onto the threaded rods and slide back until it is in the correct position.
Hint, it will only go on one way round, with all the holes lining up correctly.
Place the new belt loosely around the drum before it is installed in

Broken Door Handle

  • Customer: Cheryl from Old Town FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Clips on the inside of the door handle had snapped off, 1 minute later it worked like new. NO TOOLS required! So happy my older appliances can have new life by the parts carried by PartSelect. Thanks!

Broken drive belt & worn rear drum bearing

  • Customer: Robert from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
After removing the front panel with a 1/4" nut driver; I removed the drum, rear shield and spacer using a 3/8" ratchet, 6" extension and torx socket for the three drum screws. I then removed the 4 screws on the rear heat guard panel to get to the rear bearing assembly. I removed the rear bearing assembly and replaced the plastic bearing and then re-assembled it. Total time was less than 30 minutes. Now the problems began. Trying to line up the drum to the bearing plate was very difficult due to the bulk of the drum. After some frustration time I devised a way to do it. I took 3 1/12 inch #10-24 screws and cut the heads off. Then I screwd them into to bearing plate as guide pins. I then backed them out after installing each of the mounting screws. It worked very well. Next as I have large arms and hands Iworked form at least 30 minutes to attached the drive belt to the moto and idler pulley. I finally got it on by attaching the belt first around the motor then pulled the idler arm down to engage it over the belt. Took a lot of positioning my hand correctly to get enough leverage to pull the idler arm down far enough. All in all not to complicated and my wife just won't part with this dryer that really dries clothes quickly.I glad I took on the task to repair it and my hats go off to for quickly and correctly filg mypart order. Hope you have the same success.

My dryer was starting to throw a lot more heat than normal. I clean my lint filter every time I use the dryer. What I didn't realize was that over time, the lint filter had warped enough to allow lint to escape into the dryer and subsequently into the dryer vent system, clogging some areas almost

  • Customer: Nancy from Dalton PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the vent system (screwdrivers to loosen screws) and used the shopvac hose and my hands to clean out what I could. I also snaked the shopvac hose down into the dryer and removed clogged lint. Then I just replaced the lint filter.
All Instructions for the DLB3400SBLWH
31-45 of 250