Models > DLB3400SBLWH > Instructions

DLB3400SBLWH Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DLB3400SBLWH parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DLB3400SBLWH
16-30 of 241
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pivot bushing was worn out - drum not turning smoothly

  • Customer: Scott from Pennsville NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the top of the unit and the front cover which allow me to remove the drum. Then I removed the worn parts, and installed the new parts.

old belt broke

  • Customer: bob from shoemakersville PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
my two twin boys Mike and Curtis age 14 did the repare they toke of the front of the dryer then the top put the belt around the drum then put the top and front back on then went to the back and removed the panel and put the belt on the pulley then set the tension wheel then put the back cover back on
the repair was easy I watched to make sure they did it right and did not have to tell them how I am very proud of them they do great work
finding the part was easy and it was here the next day after I ordered it and it was only sent 3 to 5 work days. You guys have a great web site and fast shipping thanks for the good work!

Dryer squeaked when running

  • Customer: Mark from Garrett IN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Everything is cleaned as it is removed.

Remove the two screws holding the top down.
Disconnect two wires from door switch.
Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.
Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.
Remove the drum.
Label the wires then remove the heating element.
Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.
Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.
Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element.
Reinstall heating element.
Reconnect wires.

Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.
I will describe how I did it.

Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.
Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.
Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector.
Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.
Start two screws don't tighten them yet.
Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.
Put belt on drum.
Install drum and belt.
Reverse disassembly.
When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.

I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.

very bad squeak

  • Customer: ROBERT from CLIMAX NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I REMOVED THE TOP AND LAYED IT BACK WITH WIRES ATTACHED.TOOK OUT 2 SCREWS AND REMOVED THE FRONT.I PULLED OUT THE DRUM AND THROUGHLY CLEANED AWAY ALL LINT AND DUST FROM MOTOR, ETC.REMOVED WORN PARTS AND REINSTALLED NEW PARTS IN SAME FASHION.REASSEMBLE CABINET AND CHECK OPERATION.....GREAT.NO NEW DRYER NEEDED!

I needed to replace the Timer Knob on my dryer

  • Customer: Kimberly from Valencia CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I took the old one off and the new one went right onto the dryer. It was very simple to do.

dryer door wont stay shut

  • Customer: robert from mount joy PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.

Dryer developed a progressively noisy squeak over several months

  • Customer: Richard from Hedgesville WV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs)
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
place.
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!

The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.

broken belt

  • Customer: Joseph from Girard OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Wrench set
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Belt and pulley both broke. Ordered parts; received 2 days later. Took off front and top, positioned belt, replaced pulley and nut. Parts fit perfectly. Reinstalled covers. Ran dryer. Easy fix.

Broken Dryer belt

  • Customer: Bruce from Taylor PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Easy as 1-2-3. I took off the top hinge screws in order to lift up the top of the dryer.

I then took off the front dryer piece with the door intact. The lint filter was in the front door section.

I released the wiring clips to the front of the dryer and lowered the front of the dryer down gently. there is enough slack with the wiring if you disconnect the wirre clips.

I removed the old broken belt. ThenI gently lifted thr dryer drum enough to slid in the new belt with the ridges down. Look for the old belt line (worn area on the drum) and slip the belt up on the drum to that point.

Then I replaced the wiring with clips and put the front of the dryer back together.

Going around to the lower back of the dryer, I unscrewed the back plate where the exhaust comes out. It was 8 screws with a socket.

Once the back was off, I pulled the dryer pully to the right and fed the reamider of the belt through both pulleys ensuring that the ridged side was on the correct side of the pulley. The pylleys match the ridges on the belt. I rleased the tension on the movavle pulley and it was done.

All I had to do was button the back up and do a "dry run" I quick have the drum a half roation from inside the drum with the door open. Then it was all gravy. I was done and saved myself a good deal of money. Look on the net for pics to make thing easier for you. There are people out ther who will NOT charge you for this info.

The plastic door handle on the dryer broke and came off.

  • Customer: Jerry from Mindoro WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I received the replacement part I ordered from PartSelect.com within 3 days of placing the order. I opened the plastic bag it came in. I snapped the part into the holes left vacant by aforementioned abscence of broken part.

Dryer would not start

  • Customer: Robert from Santa Barbara CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I checked the power (OK) and removed the four screws that held the timer/controls (upper panels) cover. This revealed a schematic for the dryer that enabled me to determine the door swich was probably the culprit. I pried out the old switch and, sure enough, it was always open (checked with multi-meter). I found the replacement switch easily using the dryer model number and "door switch" search string. Ordered Sunday night, the part came on Tuesday and took 2 minutes to install (no tools needed).

Wouldn't start

  • Customer: Pauline from South Portland ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the front panel,tiped up the top panel ,removed the drum, drive belt,motor and exaust tube assembly. cleaned and vaccumed all lint from every were. Removed motor from fan blade and houseing. Reinstalled moter and pulley that came with the moter and fan blade. reinstalled all of the rest of the parts and plugedin the wires. once all back together pluged into outlet and turned on and prasto works great.

Dryer Belt Broke

  • Customer: James from Sylacauga AL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the rear access panel (8 - 10 bolts), checked the pullys. Opened the dryer door, removed 4 allen screws at top and lifted the top of the dryer (like a hood on a car). Removed a screw (phillips) on each side (inside) pulled open the front and worked the belt around the drum. Placed belt onto pullys, plugged in checked for proper rotation of drum then unplugged and installed screws and bolts. - Fairly easy, saved a bunch from a service call. I also found 15+ years of lint inside the dryer. Vacumed and cleaned the inside -it even dries faster! Sorry Honey - No new dryer this year - Now can I go hunting?

handle broken on dryer

  • Customer: Karen from Warwick NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the broken handle from the dryer and popped on the new one.

Broken belt and worn bearing

  • Customer: Peter from Winter Haven FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Replacing the bearing and belt on a GE DDE6350BBL dryer

My belt broke and landed up in the bottom of the case, therefore no problem removing it.
Having to replace the belt I decided to renew the bearing at the same time.
Detailed instructions, with comments follow for those of you attempting this repair.
Most important, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE STARTING WORK
Take careful note as you take things apart of what they looked like before you started.

First unplug the appliance. Always unplug the appliance before doing any repair.
With the appliance stood in a space where it is accessible all round begin.
Open the front door and remove the small Phillips screws located at the top of the front panel.
( You have to look upwards to see them, normally four screws )
The cabinet top can now be lifted carefully upwards. It is a good idea to use a piece of
2 x 4 to hold this in a raised position for the time being.
Inside the cabinet on the right at the top, behind the door open switch, remove the two electrical slide connectors from the switch.
Remove the hex headed screws securing the bottom kicking plate, ( four screws )
Remove the two longer hex screws securing the bottom of the front panel, ( two screws )
Look inside the cabinet, each side towards the top there is one hex headed screw securing the top of the front panel to the sides ( two screws )
Hint head of screw faces back of cabinet.
The front panel can now be removed by lifting slightly up and away from the rest of the case. Do not try to move it too far, just turn it through ninety degrees and lean it against something heavy. Hopefully placed there to lean it on before you started.
Using a torx screw bit, remove the three torx screws securing the drum onto the bearing.
( A noise will be heard like something dropping, we will take care of this later.)
Lift the drum out of the case and set it aside.
Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the four screws securing the bearing to the casing.
Lift out the complete old bearing assembly.
Now is the time to thoroughly clean all the parts, before reassembly.
A Hoover with a crevice tool is good for removing most of the lint in and around the case. In severe cases it might be necessary to use a wire brush to loosen the lint.
Look in the bottom of the case and find the spacer, which fell off when you removed the drum. It is circular with a large hole in the centre and six holes around the side.
It is a good idea if you are adventurous, to remove the slide connectors for the heater elements and remove this assembly for cleaning. If you are not adventurous then cleaning it while installed is possible but be careful of the wire spirals, they are fragile

Helpful hint.
At this point take one of the old screws, which secured the bearing into the house.
Take this screw to a good hardware store and ask for two extra screws three inches long with the same thread. Make certain the thread is the same. Bring your new screws home, put them in a vice and saw off the heads, thus leaving two pieces of threaded rod three inches long of the correct thread. Doing this will save you a lot of aggravation later.

To replace the bearing, assemble the new bearing with a small quantity of high heat grease applied to the bearing surfaces. The old circlip can be reused without problem as long as it was not damaged when removing it.

Hint the new bearing is supplied with an 'o' ring in the groove where the circlip goes, this 'o' ring has to be removed before assembly.

If you have removed the heater assembly for cleaning it should be reinstalled now.
Install the new bearing in the casing using the four new screws provided.
Carefully screw your two threaded rods into two of the three holes in the bearing surface.
Locate the spacer plate onto the threaded rods and slide back until it is in the correct position.
Hint, it will only go on one way round, with all the holes lining up correctly.
Place the new belt loosely around the drum before it is installed in
All Instructions for the DLB3400SBLWH
16-30 of 241