DLB1550SBLWH Hotpoint Dryer - Instructions

Parts arrived well in time, exactly what was needed. The latch was a snap-in process. The strike require gentile use of a pliers, and went in quickly. Thanks!

By hand, pull old out, put new in. I did not ask the question when I purchased the part so it arrived in a white color when my dryer is an almond color. I think the part store should expose colors to the next customer. Great job and very fast deliver.

The post the dryer start knob rest on broke off flush with the Rotary Start Switch. I had to remove the back of the control panel to get to the RSS. Determining that it could be easily removed, I removed it. I doubted that gluing the post back on would hold since it was all one plastic piece. So I opted to research and find the RSS and replace it.

removed the old lint screen, inserted the new one, if fit perfectly and it works just fine A quick,inexpensive repair that was easy to do

After removing 14 million screws, finally got smart and looked on the internet to see how to open it up. It's super easy when you do it right! Ordered parts. Woman at PartSelect was patient and very helpful. My 15-yo son actually fixed it before I got home from work. His only question was where the green vs. white slide bearings go (the old part was badly worn, so we couldn't tell). He put the green on the "top" and the white on the "sides".

It clicked right in. Thank you!

Pulled broken one out and inserted new one in slots and popped in place.

I have had this happen to another ge dryer, so I had an idea what was wrong. After taking the 4 torx screws out from under the front lip of dryer top, lifting the top back (like opening the hood of your car) in the back right corner is where the high limit tstat is. To verify the problem (dryer already unpluged of course) pull the two wires off the terminals of tstat, connect them together, wrap bare parts w/ electrical tape. Let top down & plug dryer in-- it started& ran fine. Got online and ordered replacement tstat (it arrived in 2 days-- great!) unscrewed the two 1/4" hex screws holding tstat on, installed new part. On to bigger and better things ! Dryer working fine.

The job is simple once you know how to remove the front panel. The steps are as follows:
1. disconnect the power cord.
2. remove 4 Phillips-head screws under the lip of the front panel that secure it to the top panel (#1 point Phillips-head screw driver)
3. swing the top panel up, it is hinged in the rear.
4. making note of the connection points of the color-coded wires, disconnect the wires to the lamp socket and door switch (I used a felt-tipped pen on the inside of the front panel to mark the connection points, "R" for red, etc.)
5. remove the upper 2 hex-head screws from inside of the front panel (5/16" nut-driver)
6. loosen the lower 2 hex-head screws (5/16" nut-driver) accessible from outside the panel (you only have to loosen them since the bottom mounting tabs are slotted)
7. slightly lift (to clear above mentioned lower tabs) and tilt the front panel toward you. Swing the front panel to the right as though you were opening a door and position so it does not fall.
8. remove 10 hex-head screws from the black lower rear access panel (5/16" nut-driver) and remove the broken drive belt. Note that the narrow black panel securing the power cable can remain in place.
9. at this point take advantage of the situation and vacuum out the years of lint and dust you could not reach before.
10. stand in front of the dryer, lift the dryer drum slightly and slip the new belt (rib side down) around the drum. Position the belt near the rear of the drum along the wear-mark left by the old belt.
11. go to the back and place the belt in the motor's drive-belt pulley, making sure the ribbed side of the belt mates with the ribs in the pulley.
12. position the tension wheel so that the it takes up the slack in the drive belt. Note the flat side of the drive belt will mate with the flat of the tension wheel.
13. spin the dryer drum a few turns by hand to make sure the drive belt lines up properly with the pulley.
14. reassemble the dryer by reversing the above steps, starting at step 8.

It wasn't so bad taking it apart, but getting the drum back on was a problem. So what i did was too turn the dryer over and cut the heads off of three long screws and slid the drum over top of these and it lined up with the bearing housing.After a few tries it finally lined up and then i put the regular screws back in to hold the drum in place, one at a time.

It just popped back in...the really really amazing thing is the part arrived the next day....and I could immediately get the dryer fixed..thank you so much...

There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.

Actually, my wife just unscrewed the part that was still there and screwed on the replacement handle: it was easy for her. Thank you for having the part!...James

Watched the video on YouTube and everything went great!

The part arrived 24 hours after I placed the orer, even with the standard shipping. I just popped it in and problem solved.