DG20F8HW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

My father and I were deciding on weather or not to purchase a new stove. The stove had always worked well but one of the front burners would not work and the broiler element was cracked in half. I thought I could fix it and save alot of money and not have to purchase a new one. I entered the model # into the search engine from parts select, alot of discontinued parts came up that were unavailable. I then went to search by product and narrowed the selection to brand,size,metal,and category such as electrical. I was given like models that have these parts in common. I was surprised how many parts were available for my stove. I had originaly bought the unit through Montgomery Ward. Admiral, Maytag, and Whirlpool share many of the same parts. From the photos and descriptions I was able to find the correct parts. I purchased a new burner element and a broiler element. Unplug the stove first. The tools needed were a Phillips screwdriver and believe it or not that is it. Two screws held the top of the stove to the main cabinet. After removing these screws from the bottom of the stove top. Note all you have to do to find them is open the door and look under the stove top. The whole stove top swings up and back letting you access the burner elements. Three screws hold the element to the bottom of the stove top. Remove these and note the four electrical wires attached to the burner element. Make sure you mark or notate the location of each wire. Attach the new burner and hook up the wires to it. I put the stove top back down and plugged in the range. The new burner element worked but the switch didn't shut it off. I unplugged the stove and removed the the back plate at the top of the stove. The plate is held on by eight Phillips screws. You only need to take the top back plate off. Don't take the bottom one off. After removing the the plate I could access the switches for each heating element. The left front switch had scorch marks on it, so I knew that it was burned out. Another way is to test the switch with a continuity tester and see if there are any open contacts on the switch. I ordered the switch. It was delivered in two days. I removed the old switch by pulling the knob off the switch and removed one Phillips head screw holding the switch in place. I removed each wire and attached them just as they were attached to the old switch. I ratcheted the switch and plugged the stove in to the outlet and the new burner and switch worked great. I removed the old broiler by taking two Phillips screws out and carefully pulled the old broiler element out. I only pulled the broiler element about four inches from the back of the stove. There are two wires that slide off the broiler element. Remove them but don't let them get pushed back into the holes that they are located in or you will have to take the entire back of the stove off and push them back through there openings. I unfortunately did this and this added time to the repair job. There are two Phillips screws that hold the broiler element holding bar they are located inside the roof of the stove. Remove these screws and slide the old broiler element out. Slide this holder on the new broiler. The holder slides back and fourth on the broiler element so you can position it in the right spot. First attach the electrical connections by sliding on the two wires to the broiler. Push the broiler ends back into there holes and attach them with the two Phillips screws. Next slide the broiler holder on to the broiler element and then position the broiler on the roof of the oven. Attach with the Phillips screws. After doing this I plugged the stove in and turned on the broiler and it works great. There were alot of screws that held the back top plate to the stove and other screws that attached the switch, burner element and broiler element in place, so it would be a good idea to note were these screws are placed. Then there will not be a problem matching

Unplugged dryer from power source, used putty knife to release latches that hold top on, tilted the top out of the way, unplugged door lite, located the radiant switch, removed 1 screw,then undid 2 wires & lifted out switch. Reversed procedure plugged in dryer....wa la had dried a large load of clothes, took 1/3 the time to dry clothes at last. Thanks "PartSelect"

First, unplug power. The coils are easily accessible from the front of the dryer. Use a 5/16 nutdriver to remove two screws at the bottom of the bottom panel and lift the bottom edge of panel toward you. Pops right out. The assembly with the coils is on the front left. Use a small phillips to remove the coil-retaining bracket. Keep track of orientation of which coil goes where. Slide the suspect coil up off the column and slide the replacement in its place. Carefully slip off wire clips from old to new coil. Repeat for second coil. Reassemble and test.

I followed video instructions. Raised the top, slipped off the front, installed the belt, aligned, installed tension part, reinstalled front, lowered the top and inserted lint trap. Job done. Quick and easy. The video was the key to the whole project.

This was my first dryer repair. The only difficulty I had was figuring out how the belt tensioner was set up with the belt. The old belt broke so I didn't know how it was suppose to work. Anyway, it took a few minute to figure out that one end of the bracket was a "spring" that allowed it to flex a long ways! Pretty easy job.

Opened the dryer door - removed two screws on the left and two screws on the right - pulled the front panel forward and lifted it up to remove. The coils were located on the bottom right hand corner of the dryer, I vacuumed he area and then removed the two screws and bracket which hold the coil in place. Lifted the new coils off paying close attention to their orientation. Installed new coils. Align tab on top of coils with bracket. installed bracket and screws. Tested dryer and then replaced front cover. Very easy and rewarding.

Identified the rollers as the root cause of the drum not freely rotating. They also squeaked a little at the beginning of any cycle. I replaced the rear rollers and shafts using the parts from the roller replacement kit. Easy to do. The hardest parts was re-installing the belt.

looked up model on partselect and used the part by symptom section, chose the"will not start" symptom, based on that, the high limit kit seemed obvious, ordered part,received part in two days. watched repair video on this web site, followed the instructions, which were very clear, after unplugging the dryer, replaced both limit switches using nut driver, couldn't have been easier! I echo what other reviewers have said, you have customer for life! well thought out website providing excellent service to a person who wants to understand how things work and then fix it.

Ordered part ( door latch ) flowed instructions easily fixed same.

The video you had of my dryer was different then my dryer and the pulley was in the middle of the bottom and the motor and fan were in front of it. I had to replace the belt without being able to see what I was doing. I couldn't get it at first then realized there was tension on the pulley wheel and had to pull it towards the other wheel in order to get the belt on there. Once I pulled the wheel it went on really easy. My first time working on a dryer but I knew I could do it myself.

Pulled out AC cord from wall socket first! Removed the dryer door and front panel (2 screws each) Then pulled both wire connectors off 2 coils. Removed hold -down bracket over coils. Replaced both coils and reconnect . No need to replace electronic igniter for gas. The right parts were shipped faster than I expected. Easy job. The Maytag repairman remained unemployed once again!

instructions were clear and repair was easy

Well, to Figure the issue I took the entire thing apart. Actually a lot more than needed. I found the torn belt and ordered it. I did not realize I may need a new belt tensioner which is sold with a wheel for the belt to wrap around and be tensioned by. Actually the original just utilized a rubber c or u shaped design(no wheel) for the belt to slide over. Anyways, instead of ordering and waiting for a new wheeled belt tensioner, I installed new belt with all original parts and working fine. I did oil up the drum rollers to reduce noise. And since I took the whole thing apart I cleaned the lint from every place it could hide. Ps a coke can is said to be helpful to hold the drum up while installing the belt but I found a jug of laundry detergent did better. Totally easy project for someone with no appliance repair history

The broken belt was found when I opened the dryer. The part number was on the belt and a quick online search led me to PartSelect. The part was available, delivered in less than 2 days and there was an online video showing the entire repair in detail.

two screws on lint screen push up top two screws on front cover. two screws on coils lift coils off put back together. less than 10 minutes. all done