DECIDL1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

The top of the dryer was easily removed by prying the front up with a screwdriver then tipping it back and off of the mounting brackets. Then the front of the dryer was removed by unscrewing a single screw on each side that held the front to the side panels then pulling the front away from the dryer. Once the front was off, the coils were easily accessible on the bottom left side. A metal bracket held the coils on and was somewhat tough to get the two screws removed on it as they were stuck, but once they were removed the coils easily came out and I was able to replace them in minutes. The whole job took 15-20 minutes and I now have a dryer that heats through the entire drying cycle.

Used a screwdriver to pop out broken piece. Used pliers to snap in new one.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

1. Pry Dryer top up and off the clips. (Front of Dryer)
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on the inside of front panel.
3. Lift front panel up and set off to the side
4. Removed 2 phillips screws with short handled phillips driver that hold the gas valve coil bracket in place.
5. Unplugged and removed both coils, installed new coils and bracket. Re installed front panel, screws and top.

Just as others described in your forum, getting to the gas valve solenoid coils is relatively easy. Pop the top lid and lay it back, remove 2 inside screws that fasten the front cover and pull back off the snap clips and lift up and off. Remove 3 screws that hold the entire gas control assembly to the bottom of the dryer and remove. Unfasten 2 screws on the valve that lock the plate on top of the two coils, unplug the electrical spade lug connections and remove. Install the new coils and do everything in reverse. Easy as 1-2-3.

I did not troubleshoot my gas dryer to find the exact part that needed to be replaced. Instead, I did some research and found that the ignition coils are an extremely common problem.

The top panel of my gas dryer is attached by two snap clips located in the front, about three inches in from each side. I slid a butter knife in the space between the top panel and the front panel to push the clips and release the top panel. Front panel is attached by two screws, one on each side. I removed the front panel to access the heating system on the bottom left of my dryer and immediately saw the two ignition coils with a metal cover on top of them. Removing the metal cover was a little difficult because the two screws holding it in place were stuck. Once the metal cover is off, the two coils simply slide out. On my dryer, the bigger coil had a metal sleeve inside the core. I kept it and used it with my replacement parts.

The most difficult part of the repair was figuring out how to take appart the dryer to access the heating system. Now, the ol' lady is bragging to her friends that I didn't just fix the dryer, but that i've actually made it better than when it was new ;-)

UNPLUG the appliance. After removing the top of the dryer the front is easily removed. To make life simple I disconnected the wire harrness at the quick disconnect and placed the door/front away from the workspace. I removed the bracket holding the coils in place and replaced the old with the new coils. replaced the front and top panels and pugged it in! Good as new!! I originally ordered the wrong part and PART'S SELCET.COM refunded my money no problem! I will bookmark this site and use it again.

Fixed it eventually with part PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). See separate story.

The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.

This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.

This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.

First of all, let me thank your wonder web site and service.


Here is the step-by-step procedure:


Unplugged the power.

Accessed the heater assembly from the front left lower corner.

Turned off the small gas valve.

Unscrewed the copper nut connecting the small gas valve and the heater assembly.

Disconnected the 3 wire connectors.

Unscrewed 2 screws under the heater assembly.

Took out the heater assembly.

Unscrewed the screw for the igniter assembly.

Installed the new igniter assembly. Be very careful with the M shaped coil. I broke a new one. That is why I have order the same part twice. But it still cost me less for hiring a tech or buying a new dryer.

Carefully put the heater assembly back into it position.

Connected the gas connector.

Secured the heater assembly to the bottom of the dryer with 2 screws.

Connected 3 wire connectors.

Turned on the small gas valve.

Plugged in and ran a test.

It worked!!.

Removed broken part. Pressed replacement into opening.

Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body

unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.

remove new latch from package, insert into dryer door frame push into place with thumb until it snaps into place. Done!

White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.

Unplug the unit. The top of the dryer is held down by 2 simple friction pins. By lifting the dryer top above it's front door panel the top will swing up. Prop the top up so you can reach down the front panel. There are 2 Phillips screws about 6 inches down on the dryers front panel. Remove the 2 screws, tip the front panel toward you it will slip off the dryer drum. Remove the 2 push on wires attached to the door switch. Gently lift the front panel off the 2 hinge points at the bottom and set it aside. The parts that your going to replace are the 2 solenoids on the burner assembly. The burner assembly is located on the lower left side of the dryer. Remove the 2 Philips screws that "clamp" the solenoids in place. Pull the 3 & 2 wire friction connectors off the solenoids. Lift the clamp off the top of the solenoids. Pick the 2 solenoids up off the valve assemble. Put the 2 new solenoids on the valve assembly push the wires back on, put the clamp back on and resemble the dryer. *Note: just to make a quick check on the continuity of the solenoids. I suspended the dryer drum so it could rotate without damaging it, put my clamp on amp probe on the 120v line to the solenoids the 3 wire one was good the 2 wire one was open.