Parts That Fix Maytag Dryer DE410 Too hot
Too hot is a commonly reported symptom for the DE410 Maytag Dryer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your DE410 Maytag Dryer that will fix Too hot. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 51% of time
This high limit/safety thermostat is used on many of Maytag's brands of gas and electric clothes dryers. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if the internal temperature reaches 200 degrees Fahrenheit. The element will kick back in when the temperature drops to 170 degrees Fahrenheit.
$
43.28
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11740647
Manufacturer Part Number WP303396
Replacing your Maytag Dryer High Limit Thermostat (Limit: 200-30)
Customer Repair Stories
Dryer ran hot
Took off door, then removed front of dryer to access the internal controls. Project went pretty darn well
-
Larry from Swanton, OH
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
7 of 9 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Broken contact on high limit thermostat - dryer no start
First I unplugged the dryer! Then unscrewed the two screws at the bottom of the front door. To remove the front door, swing the bottom up about 30 degrees until the two triangular hooks at the top of the door release. Then release the two wires going to the door switch from their harness so as to gain more slack to move the door out of
... Read more
the way. The switch was secured by 2 hex head sheet metal screws1/4inch in diameter. I used a small right angle socket wrench to get these loose. I only had to remove the front screw completely to be able to take the switch out for exchange purposes. Once this was done, reverse the process and plug it in! (BTW, the electrical schematic for this dryer is up under the top console)
Read less
-
Nova from Hudson, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
30 of 38 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 27% of time
Cycling themostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature within the dryer. This particular cycling thermostat can be adjusted between 135 and 155 degrees Fahrenheit. The differential of this thermostat is 20 degrees, meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 20 degrees.
$
57.32
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743793
Manufacturer Part Number WP694674
Replacing your Kenmore Dryer Cycling Thermostat - Limit 135/155
Customer Repair Stories
No heat in dryer
Took off the lower front panel, removed duct piece from filter to blower fan, removed two screws and two wires to thermostat in exhaust ducting, then replaced thermostat with new one. Very easy job and everything worked like new when I reassembled it.
-
Noah from Maiden, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Wrench (Adjustable)
10 of 14 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Temperature setting not working
Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!
NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use ... Read more the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.
NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use ... Read more the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.
Read less
-
Robert from Buffalo, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
17 of 20 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 9% of time
This comes with a metallic hub clamp to hold it firmly in place. The blower wheel with clamp is part of your dryer assembly. You will find this part attached to the drive motor shaft, which disperses air through the drum and out of the exhaust vent. This part might need to be replaced if you notice your dryer is taking too long to dry clothing, it is not tumbling, or is making any unusually loud noises. The blower wheel measures about 7.5 inches in diameter by 3-3/8 wide. The blower wheel can be accessed by removing the front panel of your appliance.
$
22.88
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS2200270
Manufacturer Part Number Y303836
Replacing your Maytag Dryer Blower Wheel with Clamp
Customer Repair Stories
Loud rumbling at startup, periodic rumbling during drying, rumbling after motor stopped
After removing more bolts and screws than I needed to, here's how to replace the blower wheel on the stacked washer/dryer Maytag SG1000.
Turn off the power.
Remove the two screws on the access panel, which is the canted panel just below the dryer door, and remove the panel.
Remove the two screws at the top ... Read more of the dryer door. These screws are on top of the dryer facing downward, and unless you're Yao Ming, you won't see them without a stepstool. You can then lift up the door and swing it out from the bottom.
There are two wires attached to the door which you should disconnect. You can set the door aside without disconnecting any other wires.
Next, remove the lint filter and the housing assembly it fits into. First, disconnect the ground wire connected to the upper-left corner of the housing, then remove 4 hex-screws accessed from inside the dryer tumbler.
You should take this opportunity to thoroughly remove lint from inside the housing.
The blower housing is now accessible. Remove the screws on the periphery of the blower housing cover (a.k.a. faceplate), and remove the cover.
The blower wheel is held in place by an external retaining ring and by a blower clamp. The replacement blower wheel came with a new blower clamp, and that clamp can be manipulated with a regular pair of pliers. I went out and bought a pair of snap ring pliers to deal with the retaining ring.
After removing the retaining ring and then taking off the blower clamp, I removed the old wheel. The new wheel was a little tough to put on, but after reading the story of the people who used a hammer to break their wheel, I just pushed on it until it popped on. I used my pliers to install the new clamp, then re-installed the retaining ring and the blower housing cover.
Reinstall the lint duct housing, making sure housing duct centers into the blower seal (looks like a felt circle). Reconnect the ground wire.
While you're inside the tumbler, at the front end of the tumbler just below the door there is a black plastic sensor with two metal bars on it called an automatic dry sensor. Fabric softener can coat the metal bars and cause the sensor to not function. Lightly sand the metal bars to remove any buildup.
Reconnect the wires to the dryer door. Reinstall the door by tilting the bottom in first, guiding the clips on the bottom of the door into the slots they fit in, then push the top of the door into position. Reinstall the screws at the top.
Reinstall the access door.
Turn the power back on! Done!
Turn off the power.
Remove the two screws on the access panel, which is the canted panel just below the dryer door, and remove the panel.
Remove the two screws at the top ... Read more of the dryer door. These screws are on top of the dryer facing downward, and unless you're Yao Ming, you won't see them without a stepstool. You can then lift up the door and swing it out from the bottom.
There are two wires attached to the door which you should disconnect. You can set the door aside without disconnecting any other wires.
Next, remove the lint filter and the housing assembly it fits into. First, disconnect the ground wire connected to the upper-left corner of the housing, then remove 4 hex-screws accessed from inside the dryer tumbler.
You should take this opportunity to thoroughly remove lint from inside the housing.
The blower housing is now accessible. Remove the screws on the periphery of the blower housing cover (a.k.a. faceplate), and remove the cover.
The blower wheel is held in place by an external retaining ring and by a blower clamp. The replacement blower wheel came with a new blower clamp, and that clamp can be manipulated with a regular pair of pliers. I went out and bought a pair of snap ring pliers to deal with the retaining ring.
After removing the retaining ring and then taking off the blower clamp, I removed the old wheel. The new wheel was a little tough to put on, but after reading the story of the people who used a hammer to break their wheel, I just pushed on it until it popped on. I used my pliers to install the new clamp, then re-installed the retaining ring and the blower housing cover.
Reinstall the lint duct housing, making sure housing duct centers into the blower seal (looks like a felt circle). Reconnect the ground wire.
While you're inside the tumbler, at the front end of the tumbler just below the door there is a black plastic sensor with two metal bars on it called an automatic dry sensor. Fabric softener can coat the metal bars and cause the sensor to not function. Lightly sand the metal bars to remove any buildup.
Reconnect the wires to the dryer door. Reinstall the door by tilting the bottom in first, guiding the clips on the bottom of the door into the slots they fit in, then push the top of the door into position. Reinstall the screws at the top.
Reinstall the access door.
Turn the power back on! Done!
Read less
-
Ed from Long Beach, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
93 of 155 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The blower fan (nylon) stripped off the motor shaft (steel)
Removed the front cover (screws on bottom 0f face)...removed blower cover....spring pliers to remove and install blower fan. the rest of the time was spent cleaning the inside of the shell as well as the vent. Reassembled and dryer runs better than it has for many years.
-
Stephen from Lafayette, IN
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
565 of 571 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 9% of time
Cycling thermostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 140 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 20 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 140 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 20 degrees.
$
61.54
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11757518
Manufacturer Part Number WPY304475
Replacing your Maytag Dryer Cycling Thermostat (Limit: 140-20)
Customer Repair Stories
No Heat in my ancient Maytag Dryer
I had a repairman come by to take a look at my 20+ year old dryer because it wasn't working properly, NO HEAT. He said it was the cycling thermostat and wanted to charge me $190 to fix this problem. He left me the paperwork for this diagnose and charged me $49.50 for looking at the dryer. I called a friend of mine and told him what the
... Read more
repairman had said. He went into your website and found the part, the first time around we ordered the wrong part. No problem, I sent the wrong part back and reordered the proper one. It took him no more than 20 minutes to install this part. I received credit for the wrong part within 2 weeks. The dryer is working great. It’s good to know of a company that still can provide you with parts for a dryer as old as mine, thanks. It worked and it' still working!
Read less
-
GAIL from WOODBRIDGE, VA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
9 of 15 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer not heating
First let me say that this dryer is at least 30 years old. The only repairs it has needed up to this point were a set of belts and lint screen holder.
I researched and found a list of items to check for dryer not heating. Only 3 items were listed as possible causes, the Heating Element, Cycling Thermostat, and Heating Element T ... Read more erminal & Insulator.
First and most important step - UNPLUG THE DRYER FROM THE WALL
To access the cycling thermostat, I removed the back panel. The thermostat is located on top of the blower housing and is easily accessable. I was unable to test the old part.
Accessing the heating element and terminal insulators is a bit more difficult as they are located in the fron of the dryer around the door opening. Further research showed the way to access these parts was to remove the cabinet from the chassis. After photographing the wiring connections, I disconnected the cycling thermostat and motor connections. Next, I removed the 3 screws at the bottom of each side panel. With the dryer door removed (it lifts off when open), I simply lifted the cabinet up over the drum. I recommend having someone assist with this as it is awkward and a little heavy. Lay the cabinet on its front on a rug to keep from scratching the finish. The heating element and insulators can be inspected at this time.
Having found no breaks in the element or insulators, I assumed the problem was the cycling thermostat and ordered one. When I got it (less than 2 days), I installed it and reassembled the cabinet to the chassis. I plugged the dryer in and set the timer. Still no heat!
After looking at the schematic, I found 2 other possible causes for no heat. The motor contains a centrifugual switch (closes when the motor spins) which I was not able to check. There is also a HIGH LIMIT thermostat on the shroud that holds the heating element. I decided I could test this part by by-passing it. I unplugged the dryer and removed the back once again. I reached past the drum from the back (not easy to do) and disconnected the 2 wires from the thermostat and connected them together. I plugged the dryer back in and started the dryer. It heated up like it should. I then ordered the high limit thermostat. After removing the cabinet once again (easier 2nd time), I installed the high limit thermostat and reassembled the unit.
The Dryer is working fine and hopefully should last another 25-30 years.
I researched and found a list of items to check for dryer not heating. Only 3 items were listed as possible causes, the Heating Element, Cycling Thermostat, and Heating Element T ... Read more erminal & Insulator.
First and most important step - UNPLUG THE DRYER FROM THE WALL
To access the cycling thermostat, I removed the back panel. The thermostat is located on top of the blower housing and is easily accessable. I was unable to test the old part.
Accessing the heating element and terminal insulators is a bit more difficult as they are located in the fron of the dryer around the door opening. Further research showed the way to access these parts was to remove the cabinet from the chassis. After photographing the wiring connections, I disconnected the cycling thermostat and motor connections. Next, I removed the 3 screws at the bottom of each side panel. With the dryer door removed (it lifts off when open), I simply lifted the cabinet up over the drum. I recommend having someone assist with this as it is awkward and a little heavy. Lay the cabinet on its front on a rug to keep from scratching the finish. The heating element and insulators can be inspected at this time.
Having found no breaks in the element or insulators, I assumed the problem was the cycling thermostat and ordered one. When I got it (less than 2 days), I installed it and reassembled the cabinet to the chassis. I plugged the dryer in and set the timer. Still no heat!
After looking at the schematic, I found 2 other possible causes for no heat. The motor contains a centrifugual switch (closes when the motor spins) which I was not able to check. There is also a HIGH LIMIT thermostat on the shroud that holds the heating element. I decided I could test this part by by-passing it. I unplugged the dryer and removed the back once again. I reached past the drum from the back (not easy to do) and disconnected the 2 wires from the thermostat and connected them together. I plugged the dryer back in and started the dryer. It heated up like it should. I then ordered the high limit thermostat. After removing the cabinet once again (easier 2nd time), I installed the high limit thermostat and reassembled the unit.
The Dryer is working fine and hopefully should last another 25-30 years.
Read less
-
William from Exmore, VA
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
18 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 4% of time
This thermostat controls the internal drying temperature. Cycling themostats continually cycle the heating element off and on to maintain a constant inner temperature. This particular cycling thermostat has a limit of 150 degrees Fahrenheit and a differential of 25 degrees. Meaning that with this thermostat, the heating element will cut out at 150 degrees and cycle back on once the internal temperature drops by 25 degrees.
$
48.11
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11757517
Manufacturer Part Number WPY304474
Customer Repair Stories
Dryer ran too hot.
Replacing the cycling thermostat on our many years old Maytag DG412 was quite easy once the front panel was removed. I removed the original part (power un-plugged!) before dealing with the spade connectors; one of them needed some persuasion with some pliers which was easy with the part removed first. The spades on the new part showed
... Read more
the wire colors on them, which avoided errors.
The hardest part was finding a schematic showing where the thermostat was in this model. The video showed removing the back panel and this model required the front panel to be removed.
The hardest part was finding a schematic showing where the thermostat was in this model. The video showed removing the back panel and this model required the front panel to be removed.
Read less
-
Nancy from Orinda, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Old Maytag Dryer Overheats, Then Shuts Off Before Cycle Finished
Unplug Dryer. Remove two screws from front panel of dryer on lower left and right. Dryer front will swing out and up to release the hinges at the top of front panel. Set panel aside to the left and remove wires from switch at inner top left of panel (if necessary). There are 3 thermostats in this dryer. Two are set together at lower l
... Read more
eft and one is on lower right and sits back a little. This Cycling Thermostat is one of the two (on the lower left) and in my dryer, was the one on the right of these two. Check to make sure the numbers (and wire colors) on the replacement match with the thermostat being replaced, because it could be different from mine (Maytag couldn't tell me the difference). Remove the 3 wires from the thermostat with needle nose pliers and then use a 1/4" deep socket to unscrew the thermostat. Replace in reverse order.
Read less
-
Jon from GRAPEVINE, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!