DE210 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

This is a Maytag DG412 Gas Dryer, at lease 25 yrs old. The first problem detected was squeaking, second the motor would not operate (detected overload sound), and gas to burner would light once then cut out with no further heating. . .Time for a tune up. Repair costs for servicing/repairing would have run in excess of $500. Purchase the motor, disconnected gas line, unplugged electrical. Removed front of dryer (2 screws), disconnected wires to door switch - remove door. Remove vent cover, dryer drum and belt. Remove motor mount bracket holding motor, (2) green retaining clips and disconnect electrical pigtail connections. The reinstall instructions for the electrical which came with the motor are pretty easy to follow once the new motor is reinstalled. Replaced (2) dryer drum wheels. Use a pliers with pins in the tip to remove the retaining clip. Slide wheels off with old washers (one on back and one on front). Thinking this was the source of the squeak noise, I added some Lithium Grease to the wheel shaft before installing - figure something is better than nothing. In this installation I also replaced (1) Holding Coil, (1) Booster Coil and (1) Coil which is mounted to the top of the gas valve plungers on top of the gas valve regulator. This was a pretty easy task. Instructions were clear on how to replace these coils, which I figured was the source of my gas flow shutoff problem. I do not recommend disconnecting the existing wire nuts from the existing components. These wires are connected to the controls of the dryer and you don't want to get them mixed up when replacing the coils. The best approach is to remove (1) magnetic strip holding the Booster Coil and Holding Coil first. Remove the old coils and set the off to one side. Next install the new Booster Coil (bottom coil) and Holding Coil (top coil)leaving the new wires exposed. Next, cut the wire from the old Booster Coil and splice together with old lead wire, (wire nut together). Next repeat the same procedure with the Holding Coil. Install the "O" ring to the bottom cover of the magnetic strip for these two coils - VERY IMPORTANT - Next, reinstall the coils and magnetic strip back in the exact location as when removed. Second step, remove the magnetic strip from the second Coil and repeat the previous steps and with the first. Once secure, the instructions say to test with soap and water for any gas leaks once the dryer is reconnect. This is to ensure that the "O" ring has sealed the gas valve plunger properly. The final steps are to reassemble the dryer drum - don't forget to put the belt on the drum before reinstalling. Next reinstall the drum front cover. Be careful that the fabric seal is properly seated round the exhaust vent where the cover marries with the exhaust vent. Next, reconnect the two wire leads to the door shut off switch on the front of the dryer and reinstall the door. Finally, on the back of the dryer, remove the gray access panel which reveals the pulley for the dryer belt. Attached the dryer belt in the same configuration as was previous before you started the work. At this point, with the gas line off and vent tube disconnect, I plugged in the dryer and tested the operation. . . .still I have a squeaking noise. The culprit was the tension wheel on the dryer belt. Rather than replacing it, I just hit it with some 3 & 1 oil. A couple of drops is all it took. I repositioned the dryer, connected the vent tube and gas line connection. Turned on the gas valve and tested dryer for operation. Results, the squeaking was gone, the gas valve allowed the dryer to heat properly and the motor worked perfectly. This project took me longer than a technician might have taken, since I took my time and was careful of the steps required. Total time was about two hours and saved myself about $400 in service charges. When installing the holding coil, you want to make sure that the coil is not setting on top of other screws.

I basically followed the video instructions. I ordered the 1st bunch of parts on a Sunday and had them by Tuesday. Once I took everything apart I discovered that the noise I heard was NOT one of the noises that I thought like the Drum Support Roller but was the blower wheel. The blower wheel flat spot was just worn out. So I ordered a new blower wheel the following Sunday and had it by Tuesday. But in the meantime I replaced the 2 rollers, 2 roller shafts, 2 front glides, idler puller, the tumbler belt, blower wheel with clip and some misc washers and retaining rings. That is OK the dryer sounds like new again. Thanks Dave

I never thought I could do this but just followed the video instructions. The dryer is so old I thought I would break off the clip that goes on the outside of the drum roller so I used 2 needle nose pliers to more delicately remove it. Definitely want to buy 2 rollers and replace them both since you don't know which one is the squeaky one. For this model you want to access both the front and back of the dryer for easier maneuverability. Had I known the belt was that old I would have bought that and replaced it at the same time. You might spend as much time cleaning the inside as you will replacing the parts.

Same as instruction video. Removed front cover ,removed bulkhead ,removed tumbler barrel replaced belt and reassemble

1.Separate the inner and outer door panels. Install the new latch thru the backer plate. 2. Remove the front panel to access the door catch. Remove the existing catch and replace.

Took old one out inserted new one fit perfect

I followed the general instructions as to the disassembly of the dryer, taking the front off first. I opened the pannel in the back to release the tension on the belt. A complete schematic showing part names and sensor names; screws to be removed/re-installed and location as well as size; location of seals and the need when reassembling to be secure before mating parts/joining. Motor requires the use of either a special tool to remove the clamps or the use of a large screwdriver to 'push down' clamp (s) while prying with another screwdrive to release the clamp ---the only difficult part of this disassembly. Motor, for my moded has two yellow wires and kit did not come with a connector of the size to fit the motor (trip to the hardware store) since two connections are required at the motor terminal at the yellow terminal and they are diferent. Kit should contain both sizes for the yellow terminals. Advice on how to remove the motor clips would have been helpful. I cleaned all of the passageways as well as the interior of the cabinent, to 'near-new' condition.

Your videos which are absolutely great. We watched the video for the Blower Wheel and Front Glide Kit and replaced both to fix the problem. This is a sturdy 30 year old dryer and is now good for another 20! Thank you so much for your website and parts.

Repaired as described in the Partselect video.

Was running the dryer with only 1 baffle for a while but the clothes were balling and and not drying well. I decided it was time for the repair, instead of calling a repair man, I searched for the parts and found them on parts select. After a couple of days I had the parts in hand and got to it. I am pretty handy but I had never worked on a dryer before so i checked out a couple of how to videos. Although I did not find a video for my exact dryer model, I got the gist of it. After removing 2 screws, I removed the front panel to expose the brackets holding the top down. I removed the 2 screws holding the top down and propped it up and out of the way. Once the top was out of the way the barrel was exposed and I just bolted the new parts down. After a quick vacuum of the inside, since I had the machine open, I just screwed everything back together and was done in less than an hour. The whole job cost me less than $30. Good luck!

Removed front of dryer, front drum support and drum. Complete disassembly of the motor and blower duct assembly. Removed duct cover and blower fan. Mounted new fan and spring clamp. Repaced cover and remounted motor and duct. Removal of the snap ring, drum rollers and roller shafts. Replaced shafts, thrust and allowance washers, rollers and snap ring. Installed drum and belt, front drum support and front cover. Works great!

Replaced the belt by following the included directions, quite easy, could've done it without, but a no-brainer.

I removed tumbler drum & inspected the rollers, replaced rollers as they were over 20 years old. Inspected the blower fan and found that the fan would sin on the motor shaft replaced the squirl cage blower fan ; tested it and it ran like anew drier. Steve B.

Took off front. Took out drum. Turned little wheels the drum rests on and they were really squeaky. Needed snap ring pliers to remove them. Turned out that there were metal washers on the rear side that had both bent. The repair wheels I bought here came with 2 fiber washers instead. That was all that was wrong. Then I put the belt on wrong by running it in the little grove on the drum instead of where the belt mark was. It didnt turn well with a full load so used half load, not understanding why it would not turn (due to lose belt). Wife put in full load, burned up belt. Belt easily changed as well, and it runs great now.

I had already replaced the tumbler roller and st ha the same rumbling noise but quieter , so I inspected the blower wheel and it would spin on thr moter shaft , removed blower wheel and found that the moter shaft was D shaped but th4e bore of the wheel was round and the wheel was sloppy on the shaft. cleaned the shaft & install4ed a new blowe wheel , problem solved , runs ;like a new Drier !