DE18F2HW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

I was about to purchase a new dryer because of the age of my dryer and not wanting to hire someone to fix it. After a little web research, I saw several do-it -yourself stories indicating this was a very easy repair.

This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$:
(1) Disconnected power
(2) Opened the top of the dryer
(3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor.
(4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor
(5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element.
(6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element.
(7) Reassembled new element.
(8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.

Worked like a charm!

1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)

Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcerting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.

I opened the dryer from the front by pushing in on the two clips just under the top. I then had to remove two screws on each side and took the front panel off. I reached around underneath on the right side to slip the belt off the pulley. I pulled the drum out and then I could see the roller that was squeaking (the left one). The wheel had sheared some of the support off and that was the cause of the squeak.

I took the locking ring off and removed the wheel and support. I put the new support in, attached it, and then the wheel, washer and lock ring. I used pliers to push the lock ring onto the support.

Then I put the drum back in making sure it was in all the way (it fits snugly between the wheel and the back of the dryer). The belt is a little tricky to get back on. I put it around the drum and then reached underneath and behind again. The pulley is on a spring, so you have to pull it up and put the belt on all one-handed and blind. Once that was on, I gave it a few turns to make sure everything was working again.

It is quiet as can be now!

First I made sure the unit was unplugged. I popped the top of the unit with a slotted screw driver, lifted the top up and rested it against the wall behind the dryer. I removed the two screws - one on each side in front on top of the dryer cabinet. Then I tipped back the front panel of the dryer slightly with the door of the dryer closed. I unclipped the door switch with a slotted screw driver and then lifted the entire front panel including the door off of the the two floor clips on bottom. I set the front panel aside. Next I lifted the large drum slightly to dislodge the rollers in back and slid the drum back slowly while sliding the thin belt back on the drum until the drum was out of the unit and the belt was detached and loose. Then I cleaned the unit thoroughly, vacuumed all lint and dirt and wiped down the outside of the large drum with mineral spirits to make sure it was totally clean and smooth. Then I removed the two rollers and the roller shafts at the back of the unit following the directions enclosed. My slip-ring pliers came in handy to remove the retaining rings on the roller shafts. I replaced the rollers and roller shafts and the supplied washers and spacers as per the instructions. I sprayed a little WD-40 on the surface of the rollers and it stopped all squeaking and vibration of the drum. Next I replaced the front drum pads and runners as per the instructions. I then slid the drum back in place taking care to slide the new belt back around the drum in the same position as the old belt. Now came the difficult part - laying on the floor and reaching under the drum I positioned the belt around the motor shaft and tension pulley. This must be done by "feel" and must be done correctly!! Follow the instructions on the positioning of the belt very carefully and make sure it is in the correct position on the drum, motor shaft, and tension pulley! Next, get up and rock the drum up and down slightly to make sure it has engaged the two rear rollers properly. Rotate the drum manually one or two turns to make sure the belt is in the correct position. Then replace the front door panel by dropping it onto the two clips at the base of the unit and taking care to replace the door switch in reverse order of taking it out. Then replace the two screws at the top front on each side of the unit to secure the front panel. Lower the top of the unit back in place, plug in the dryer, turn it on and enjoy the lack of noise you have created.

Unplugged unit, lifted the top cover, removed heater element screw, lifted out element, lifted out thermal fuse bracket. Removed wires from thermal fuse, confirmed was open curcuit at room temperature. Attached wires to thermal fuse, inserted fuse into bracket, slid bracket onto clip on side of box that housed the heater element, reinstalled heater elememt, inserted long screw into heater element hole and tightened snugly. Extra to ensure proper air flow: Then removed wires from door switch on fron panel (labeled them), removed 2 screws at top of from panel, tilted and lifted front panel off, removed blower cover, cleaned all duct work from blower to exit of unit, sealed plastic duct that was attached to front panel. It had loose gaskets that allowed air to be drawn in from the sides and not through the duct thus bypassing the drum and heater element. Reattached blower cover, lowered and tilted front cover into place, reattached top 2 corner screws, reattached switch wires, lowered top. Plugged in and tested.
Note the Partselect sales person told me that the LA-1053 kit contained 3 items, however, it only came with the fuse, not the thermostats. Foutunately, only my fuse was shot.

First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure out you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!

Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, etc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.

There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

Turn the power off to the dryer. Pushed the two retaining clips that held the top of the dryer to the dryer sides. One on each side of the front. Table knife works really well to do this. Lift the top of the dryer up all the way. You will see the heating elements in the rear center of the dryer. There will be one screw holding the heating elements in place. Once you remove the wires from the heating element and remove the screw the heating element will lift out. Remove the heating elements and set down somewhere they will not get damaged. On the side the screw came out of there will be the heat fuse (as Maytag calls it). Remove the retainer by picking straight up on the retainer and the fuse will come out with the retainer. Remove the wires and replace the fuse and reinstall in reverse order.

This repair was so easy a sleeping Turtle could do it. You just remove the wiring from the old unit and remember which wire is on which terminal. Easily remove the old unit and replace it. Reattach the wires and you are done! Maytag is a very easy unit to work with. Just remember if you ever have to replace your Terminal Block, don't forget to order the brass nuts to attach the wires. Regular nuts will overheat and cause a fire hazard.

Opened top of dryer and found high limit thermostat burned in half. Thermostat is located on top of element. Replacement of thermostat took less than 10 minutes, using phillips head screwdriver.

If you were to do the Belt Replacement only, here is the quick synopsis:
1. Unplug dryer;
2a. Open lint door on top of dryer and remove the two phillips head screws that hold the lint bay to the metal dryer top;
2b. Next remove the two brakets holding the metal top to the dryer back (one screw on each bracket);
3. Use a flat-blade screw driver to pry off the top of the dryer (leaving the timer and start button area attached);
4. Lift off top and push back to expose just enough area so you can get to the two screws holding the dryer sides to the dryer front;
5. Unplug door switch;
6. Unscrew screws from #4;
7. With door open, lift dryer front (only about an inch) and then pry bottom of dryer front from dryer sides. The bottom of the dryer front is not screwed, just siting on Front Panel Clips;
8. Once the front is off the dryer, simply remove the belt and install the new one. Please note that while you are in here, you may want to inspect the rear drum seal and replace if it is worn to the point where metal is rubbing on metal. This is also a good time to clean out dust from inside this cavity to help extend the life of the bearings on the rollers and prevent dust from accumulating and gunking up the motor, etc.
9. Re-assemble tin the opposite order.
If you have any mechanical sense at all and you don't know anything about dryers, you will be surprised at the simplicity of the dryer.

I first unplugged the unit, unlatched the top cover, removed the wires for the door switch, then removed the two screws securing the front panel. I "propped open" the top lid with a 2 by 4. I then lifted away the front panel, removed the blower housing screws to expose the blower. Then I removed the snap ring on the blower shaft, the clamp holding the blower wheel in place, and slid the blower wheel off the motor shaft. Reassembly was in the reverse order. Was very easy.

Opened the top by popping the two fasteners holding it down. Did this with a screw driver. Took two screws out of the front holding collector in place and two screws out holding the front to the two other sides. Put front of dryer down on the floor. Removed old collector and used all other existing material from old collector to finish job. Wife could not believe how quick this was. Put back together was a snap too.