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Replaced broken START knob on dryer.
Slid off the old START knob, then pushed on the new START knob.
I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.
I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.
My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.
My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.
I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com
first I took the dryer apart 1st thing i did was unplug the power supply (safety first) then I removed the top of the unit then removed the front cleaned all the lint from the inside of the cabinet I found the proper belt size on part select.com the next day I had my dryer belt delivered (which cost 1/3 the price of the local repair shop price) then I placed the belt over the dryer drum and made sure it was in the general location it should be I then replaced the front cover and the top. then I removed the rear cover which was held on by six 5/16 sheet metal screws which gave me access to the drive pulley and belt tensioner the belt goes on by going under the tensioner then around the drive pulley Then i rotated the drum by hand to make sure everything had clearance I then buttend everything up plugged it and started it up it workd fine and I figure Ill get another 8 years out of it Thank you partselect.com
The dryer drum turned ok, but the gas heat did not start.
First I found and watched three videos on how to open the dryer and replace the igniter. Then I opened the dryer, but I did not remove the belt as suggested in the video, and then I removed the ignitor and flame detecter as the videos had shown. I got on-line and ordered the new parts from PartsSelect in the afternoon and had them in my hands the next morning by 9:30 am. I installed the new parts and everything worked fine again. You must be very careful with the igniter to not touch it with hands or anything else. I practiced puting in the old parts first.
I pried out the remaining pieces of the handle out of the door with a screwdriver. When the new part arrived, I snapped it into place and it was done. It fit perfectly.
Start Knob Had Broken A Couple Of Years Ago & Used Pliers To Start Dryer & This Wore Down The Start Switch
I removed 4 or 5 screws on the back of the compartment that holds the start switch. I removed 1 screw that held the start switch in & pulled off two wires that connected to the old start switch & connected them to the new start switch. I then put all of the screws back in and everything worked fine. Very easy repair.
I removed the back of the panel, unplugged the dryer, removed the two wire connections, removed the one screw that held the part in place, removed the old switch, put the new one in then followed the above procedure in reverse.
The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.
Removed 4 screws from top of control panel , remove 2 from back to lossen top of dryer. Removed rear lower access cover,6 screws on back of dryer exposing pulley and tensioner, remove broken belt and vaccuumed out a ton of lint , removed pulley and tensioner and replaced. From the front remove 4 screws and take off front of dryer, disconnecting several wires, again vaccumed out lint, lifter drum evough to replace belt. Reassembled
Gas dryer was not getting hot and smelled like gas inside drum
Removed lower front panel and then front including door (need to remove the top to access screws.) Replaced both the ingiter and heat detector. The tricky part was getting access to the long tunnel-like bracket that houses the igniter. Washer and Dryer are in a tight cutout space in very small laundry room.
First, I loosened the the top control panel and then loosened the top flat roof panel which allowed me access to the inside of the dryer. Then, I removed the front panel which allowed access to the drum. I was amazed at the amount of lint that was inside the dryer itself. Most of my time was spent in the disassembly and cleaning of the internal cavity around the drum. I reached below the drum and removed the belt from the pulley wheels and then unscrewed the drum (from the inside) from the back of the dryer and bearing kit. I removed the diffuser and cleaned it thoroughly. Then I replaced the entire drum bearing kit - the old one was almost completely dissentigrated. I probably should have applied some kind of non-flammable lubricant to the new bearing kit - the instructions did not include this step but after about 3 loads a slight squeak (different). I put everything back together - applying the new drum kit will require 2 sets of hands (my 9-year old daughter did great at this). I re-assembled the dryer and it works great, again except for the slight squeak that's still there. I may disassemble it again and apply some lubricant but I do not know what kind to get; I need to check that out.
Remove the two screws holding the top down. Disconnect two wires from door switch. Remove the two hex screws holding the front on. Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt. Remove the drum. Label the wires then remove the heating element. Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing. Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element. Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element. Reinstall heating element. Reconnect wires.
Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours. I will describe how I did it.
Unscrew bearing from inside of drum. Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole. Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector. Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram. Start two screws don't tighten them yet. Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down. Put belt on drum. Install drum and belt. Reverse disassembly. When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.
I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.
