DDE8200SBMWW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Slid off the old START knob, then pushed on the new START knob.

I created and printed a label on my computer for use with the time selector dial, which must be set at or beyond 10 minutes, before turning the START knob.

I made a label that says "Minimum" with a red arrow that points past the 10 minute setting on the time selector dial.

My teenage daughter was not setting the time selector dial, to a point past 10 minutes. When she turned the START knob, the dryer would not come on, because the time selector dial was not set past the 10 minute setting.

My daughter had continually twisted the START knob until it broke. I am hoping she will be able to see the large printed label I put on the dryer near the time selector, saying "Minimum" with a large red arrow pointing past 10 minutes.

I am very pleased that I was quickly able to find the exact matching START knob for my dryer and the exact same color, from PartSelect.Com

Removed the damaged knob and replaced it with the new knob. Very ease

First of all, unplug the dryer. I removed the two screws on the front of the cabinet to remove the top. I then took out the screws to remove the dial panel. Release the belt for the drum through the access hole in the rear of the dryer. Remove the front cover and pull the drum assembly out.

Remove the element disc from the rear of the housing, take note of the the wireing placement. Replace disc and reverse order of disassembly.

This job was easy for me as I am a tinkerer by nature. The hardest part of the whole job was waiting on the part, which by the way was ordered on a Sunday evening and I had the replacement in my hands and back in the dryer running by 1:00 PM on the following Tuesday!

I book marked this website and WILL refer it to others who simply need a repair, not a costly new appliance!

first I took the dryer apart 1st thing i did was unplug the power supply (safety first) then I removed the top of the unit then removed the front cleaned all the lint from the inside of the cabinet I found the proper belt size on part select.com the next day I had my dryer belt delivered (which cost 1/3 the price of the local repair shop price)
then I placed the belt over the dryer drum and made sure it was in the general location it should be I then replaced the front cover and the top. then I removed the rear cover which was held on by six 5/16 sheet metal screws which gave me access to the drive pulley and belt tensioner the belt goes on by going under the tensioner then around the drive pulley
Then i rotated the drum by hand to make sure everything had clearance I then buttend everything up plugged it and started it up it workd fine and I figure Ill get another 8 years out of it
Thank you partselect.com

I pried out the remaining pieces of the handle out of the door with a screwdriver. When the new part arrived, I snapped it into place and it was done. It fit perfectly.

I removed 4 or 5 screws on the back of the compartment that holds the start switch. I removed 1 screw that held the start switch in & pulled off two wires that connected to the old start switch & connected them to the new start switch. I then put all of the screws back in and everything worked fine. Very easy repair.

I removed the back of the panel, unplugged the dryer, removed the two wire connections, removed the one screw that held the part in place, removed the old switch, put the new one in then followed the above procedure in reverse.

The end repair was very simple and took minimal effort. The time and difficulty was all in the testing. I disassembled the dryer and removed the drum and then hard wired each thermo-fuse to determine where the fault was. After test all of those I was stumped. When I opened the door the light would not come on so I assumed it was a power fault closer to the source. However after all of my testing I couldn't find anything wrong. I then removed the light bulb and realized it was burned out which led me to the door switch being the fault. I removed the switch and soldered the three wire together and the dryer started right up! All I had to do was order a new $15 part, unsolder the wires and plug them in. Would have been so much simpler if that light bulb hadn't of been burned out causing me to over think my diagnosis. This was my first major appliance repair and I did it with only the help of the parts diagram provided on the website.

pulled out door striker anddoor latch out with pliers and just pushed in new parts. works like new in under a min.

Removed 4 screws from top of control panel , remove 2 from back to lossen top of dryer. Removed rear lower access cover,6 screws on back of dryer exposing pulley and tensioner, remove broken belt and vaccuumed out a ton of lint , removed pulley and tensioner and replaced. From the front remove 4 screws and take off front of dryer, disconnecting several wires, again vaccumed out lint, lifter drum evough to replace belt. Reassembled

I initially opened the front of the dryer and noticed that the drum slides that the drum rides on in the front of the dryer were excessively worn. I then removed the drum and noticed that the plastic bearing that supported the drum in the rear was cracked and the washer(?) appered to be disintigrating. I ordered and replaced the drum slides and rear bearing. The dryer was still making too much noise. I ran the motor with the drum removed and realized that they motor was the remaining source of the excessive noise. I then ordered and replaced the motor with a new one and this solved the problem. Total cost was around $140. Note that when ordering a new motor, the instructions on the web site indicate that you need to order the motor pulley if your existing motor has a pressed on pulley. The new motor was a kit that came with the pulley included, and therefore the additional part was not needed, and had to be returned. The instructional videos and parts schematics on the web site were very helpful.

1. removed two screws to take off top.
2. removed two screws to take off front.
3. Took belt off pulley and removed drum.
4. inspected old heating element at back of dryer - saw broken wire
5. replaced heating element (round w/ heating coil)
6. Re-assembled dryer

Helpful hints:
1. mark down or take pictures of all wires before removal - easy to mix them up
2. when you re-attach drum-belt, it should be taught. Comes straight down wall around metal pulley and then forms an "S" as it wraps around plastic pulley on way up. To re-attach, stick both arms into dryer - one to pull plastic-pulley and other to attach belt.

ordered part on line--received in mail 2 days later--
just pushed on in 2 seconds--job done

how much easier can it get??????

If you're dis-assembling the dryer panels to remove the drum to acess the bearing located at the rear of the drum,don't hesitate to buy a idler pulley kit and a belt.It's easier to change them now,while it's apart. besides,their all pretty much in the same state of wear! In lew of prying my son away from the computer,an extra set of hands is a help, I used a scrap piece of 4x4 with a 1 inch whole bored in one side to place the bearing end into to steady it to get the screws started. otherwise you need to have 6ft.arms! re-assembly wasn't bad, a magnetic tipped #3 screw driver eliminates the frustration of dropping panel screws down inside the partially assembled body.

Doing some simple troubleshooting with the volt-ohm meter I determined that the door switch was failed.

The replacement door switch restored the motor circuit keeping my dryer in action.