Models > DDB1501AWB > Instructions

DDB1501AWB Admiral Dishwasher - Instructions

All installation instructions for DDB1501AWB parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dishwasher repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DDB1501AWB
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Would not spray.

  • Customer: Frank from Raleigh NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 38 people found this instruction helpful
Looks like Maytag knew this was a problem. My chopper sleeve (plastic) was stripped and causing the impeller to not spin. The replacement part was all metal and was very easy to replace the old one just by removing screws. The replacement looks to be very sturdy and should last a lot longer than the original. Thanks.

Dishwasher would fill properly but when wash cycle would start you could not hear any water spraying.

  • Customer: Timothy from Trevor WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the lower spray arm by removing the middle retainer nut. Next remove the 3 screws holding the outer shroud in place. Next remove 6 screws holding the water pump top housing in place. Under this housing you will find the impeller which is retained by a screw. Check the impeller closely for cracks especially near the center hex portion of the impeller. Replace if you have any doubt of it's integrity. Next remove the lower pump housing that has the screen material in the center. What I found was the nylon part that attaches to the shaft of the motor was stripped so the impeller would spin in it's normal direction ( counterclockwise) but under the load of water it would not. So I ordered a new impeller and seal kit with a metal sleeve and chooper blade. Follow the instructions provided in the new kit a reassemble accordingly.

Dishwasher wouldn't stay on without pushing on door due to faulty switch.

  • Customer: Andrew from Azusa CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 24 of 36 people found this instruction helpful
Removed plastic lining from dishwasher door with torx screwdriver, then removed screw holding door latch assembly in place. Removed existing switch from door latch assembly and replaced.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

A mouse had chewed on the inlet cover to the point that it would no longer stay in it's hole.

  • Customer: Melissa from Wales WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Simply popped the new cover in. My part by the way was really easy to identify on the website, easy to order and arrived in a very timley fashion!

grinding noise during cycle

  • Customer: rich from liberty twp OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 15 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

The dishwasher would not drain

  • Customer: Brian from Keokuk IA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 17 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
First of all I shut the power off to the dishwasher at the breaker box. Turn the water off to the dishwasher. Unhook the water line and then remove the screws that go around the outside trim edge of the dihwasher that secures it to the cabinets. Then you will want to look at the adjustable legs on the dishwasher. You may need to lower the legs to get the dishwasher out from underneath the counter top. While you are doing this you should also pay attention to your drain hose. My drain hose had plenty of slack so I was able to pull my dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and then unhook it. You should have towels or a bucket in place to catch any water that is inside the drain hose. Next I laid the dishwasher over on its left side and I was able to access the pump. I then used a flat screw driver to remove the hose clamp and remov the drain hose from the pump. I then unplugged 1 wire connector and a bracket and could turn the pump counter clockwise and removed it from the dishwasher. There is a bracket that must be removed from the old pump to the new pump. Once this is accomplished You are ready to reinstall the new pump. I took a towel and wiped the area where the pump hooks into the dishwasher to make sure all debris was removed. I then used a very small amount of gasket sealer and placed it around the "O" Ring on the new pump. Next place the pump back in the whole and turn in a clock wise direction securing it back into the dishwasher. Hook up the drain hose and the wire connector. Make sure the bracket is postioned properly and you are ready to put dishwasher back under the counter.

Door leaks

  • Customer: ROY from SUFFOLK VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the door seal. Removed the old seal and gently stretched the new seal and pushed it into the channel. Snipped off about 2 inches excess seal. As far as the Inner Door Foam Insulation Strip goes, it was not as easy. To begin with, the old Foam Strip was attached to the door insulation and not the door. The attempt to remove the old Foam Strip from the insulation became cumbersome, so I just attached the new Foam Strip on top of the old Foam Strip. So far, after a few cycles, it appears that it corrected the leak.

Water leaking from bottom of dishwasher at motor.

  • Customer: Jack from Lee's Summit MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

Broken handle/latch Dishwasher was very difficult to open.

  • Customer: George from Andover KS
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 13 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.

water was dripping from the bottom of the front loading door. Over time this had seeped into the insulation foam strip and formed a solid encrustation within the foam strip.

  • Customer: Dan from Clarkston MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The real cause of the leak had nothing to do with the foam strip. The latch for the front loading door at the top needed to be adjusted to hold the door in tighter to the rubber door seal. This simple adjustment stopped the leak but since the foam seal was all encrusted with dried detergent from probably years of absorbing the leak, I replaced it with your new foam strip. I used a screw driver with torx bit and removed the stainless screws holding the inner door to the outer door. Once these were separated I removed the old foam strip using a putty knife and lacquer thinner. Placing the new strip onto these cleaned surfaces was the easiest part of the whole repair.

Dishwasher not draining

  • Customer: Darrell from Snellville GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
It was my first time repairing a dishwasher. I was a little worried. I also wasn't sure about how to remove the drain pump. Well, the hardest part was just getting the dishwasher out from under the counter. I did find a crimp in the drain line that probably contributed to the original pump going out. I fixed that, removed the old pump by removing one screw holding a stablizer bracket and twisting the pump connection. The original bracket is needed, so I removed it from the old pump, attached it to the new pump and reversed the removal process and secured the pump by reattaching the stabilizer bar with the single screw. I then slide the dishwasher back under the counter. Runs great. Easy repair. The part was shipped and delivered on time. Very impressed with the process and will order my appliance parts from you in the future.

Broken latch

  • Customer: Amitava from Stony Brook NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Having read some of the other stories on this site, and not really sure what subpart was ACTUALLY broken, I ordered the latch assembly rather than the latch - and as another user mentioned, it's actually cheaper. I

Installation was an absolute breeze - the drill/driver is just added hedonism - but if you are going to use one, make sure it has a variable clutch so that you can put it on one fo the loosest settings to avoid stripping the screws.

I open the dishwasher door and held it open with a heavy pot and removed the screws (about 14) around the edge of the inside panel in the door.
The panel lifts way easily (if you remove the pot). The panel is attached to the latch assembly by two wiring harnesses - make note of which goes to which, they ARE IDENTICAL and you will not be able to tell them apart later.
I just lifted the broken assembly out, and fished out the other shards
Next, after repeated attempts to remove the harness from the switches in the assembly and failing, I just swapped the old switches still attached to the harness into the new assembly.
Place the assembly back in its slot, the panel fits back on fairly easily, drive the screws back in without stripping, and enjoy the silky feeling of a latch that shuts again
Enjoy beer

dishwasher leaked

  • Customer: Jean from Gaffney SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First replaced rubber seal around door, which did not stop the leaking.
Then ordered insulation foam strip and replaced old one, which fixed problem. Put new strip over the old one because tub was slightly warped.
Very pleased with order speed and cost.

Weeping water control valve

  • Customer: Robert from Woodstock IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 9 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off water and power to the unit. Removed kick plate from under the dishwasher to access the water contol valve. Placed an absorbant rag under the water valve and water line. Disconnected solenoid on water control valve from electrical connection with my fingers. Used a standard adjustable wrench to disconnect the water line from the water control valve. Then used a 1/4" nut driver to loosen the two bolts that hold the water control valve on to the mounting bracket. Pulled the water control valve slightly forward to disconnect the water feed line to the dishwasher. Used a blunt end plier to pinch the clamp open and slowly wiggle the feed line off of the water control valve. Then removed 90 degree elbow off of the water control valve and used pipe dope and connected the elbow onto the new water control valve. Replaced water control valve in reverse order and utilized new hose clamp to reconnect feed line to new water control valve. Saved door seal for future use, when seal goes bad.

broken door springs

  • Customer: jeffrey from holland PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 11 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.
All Instructions for the DDB1501AWB
16-30 of 367