DCVH515EF0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs)
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
place.
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!

The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.

Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !

It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.
Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the top
Remove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each side
Remove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes off
Lift drum out of dryer
Use the torx bit to remove the bearing
If you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housing
This is the perfect time to remove all dust bunnies
Re-install everything in reverse order

Removed two screws on dryer top and removed top, removed two screws holding front of cabinet and removed cabinet front to the side, disconnected wires to door switch, removed two bolts from motor mount bracket, pulled motor back to access blower wheel, removed old wheel and installed new one, reversed steps, unscrewed old light bulb and screwed in new one.

Had pure hell getting to drum belt and putting it back onto motor pulley and idler, cussed a little, didn't really help . replaced front of cabinet and top, did test run all worked ok.

This job was a little difficult, espicially accessing the belt and idler pulley...

Disconnect Power from the Dryer
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.
Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner
(this is probably the hardest part).
Put the front and top back together.
Turned the power back on. Job done

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

I basically watch the video on how to get to the top bearing assy. and to replace the guides and it went pretty easy. The only thing was the drum had to be moved back into the frame because it was sticking to far out. I now have a new dryer and its very quite and does not eat the clothing any more. I received the part fast and I will use parts select for my other appliances.

Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!

I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it.
I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first!
Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another.
Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it.
I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post.
Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge.
Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel.
I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter.
Put on the top panel and done!

1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.

Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!

took two screws off the front. They were behind the door. These screws held the top on. Lifted top off and took two screws from the frame holding the front door and panel on. Disconnected three wires and removed front panel. Laid dryer over on right side and removed four screws from bottom and back,two from control panel and removed left side.lifted drum out and removed belt. Removed nut cap and idler pulley wheel. Replaced same. removed three screws holding screen and rear drum bearing to drum. Replaced same. Removed electric heat coils from back and removed receiver for rear drum bearing. Replaced same. Put everything back in reverse order. Works better than new!!

I had to remove all screws from the back of the dryer, control panel, and one side. Pulled top off. Took out two screws that held front door panel on. Disconnected 3 wires into door and completely removed door panel. Disconneted pink wire from heating element then slide belt off drum as I removed the drum. Pulled off the old completly worn out drum bearing sleeve and replaced it. Replaced drum slides as some were worn through. Had a little trouble getting belt back on when I reconnected everything but for 50 dollars in parts and shipping I have working dryer, so I would say it was well worth the effort.

First remove top cabinet panel by removing two small screws under door recess; then swing up lid and remove from hinged area at the rear. Once top panel is removed, remove the front panel and door assembly by removing two attach screws securing front panel to dryer cabinet. Swing the front panel down and remove from two base hinge points. Slightly lift the front of the dryer drum and wedge some rolled up newspaper between drum and frame to provide access to get your hands through to the idler pulley and motor area. Remove the belt form the motor & idler pulley; then slide the drum out of the cabinet to gain access to the idler pulley. Remove nut securing idler pulley from bracket and remove and replace with new part. Reverse the process to complete the installation.

I first throwed the breaker then I took the old bulb out. Put new bulb in. Turned the breaker back on.
It worked great