DCCH43GA0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

1. Remove power cord from wall outlet. Unlatched the top lid of the dryer by pushing a flat screwdriver under the R & L sides where a metal clip on each side holds the top down.
2. Removed the yellow clip screwed onto the top frame.
3. Removed the front frame of the dryer by unscrewing the two screws holding the front frame on – one on either side.
4. Mark w/ an (x) on same side of alignment for the 2 wiring connectors before separating them.
5. Removed the front panel by tilting it forward & lifted to unlatch it from the 2 clips at the bottom of dryer.
6. Unwound the belt encircling the drum by releasing the tension between the tensioner roller & drive pulley. (Its better to remove back access panel at this time & do this at the back since I found it necessary to do this anyway when re-installing the new belt).
7. W/ lifting motion, pulled the drum out from the plastic holder attached to the back of the dryer frame. Guided & completely removed the drum out of the dryer.
8. Unscrewed the 3 screws holding the old big bearing to the back of the drum.
8. Unscrewed the 2 screws & removed the plastic that had held the bearing at back of the frame.
8. Installed the new bearing by screwing it to the back of the drum with 3 screws. Be careful not to strip screws. Used help to hold new bearing in place & aligned w/ screws.
9. From the front, installed the plastic holder to the back of the frame by 2 screws and put the ball bearing in-between holder & the metal strip retainer coming from the back of dryer.
10. Used the grease that came with the kit on the plastic holder & the big bearing at the back of the drum.
11. Replaced w/ new belt then re-inserted the drum back into the body of the dryer frame, w/ lifting motion, re-inserted the bearing into the plastic holder.
12. Putting the belt into the drive & tension pulleys through the back access panel was easy but could be very hard to do if coming from the front.
13. Had to replace the front panel's top felt w/ glides that holds the drum at the front w/ a new one. Really important to pay attention to where the plastic glides excess portion is facing (towards front panel), otherwise the front panel might not fit when you snap it back to place.
14. Removed old felt remnants w/ blade scraper & sandpaper. Used adhesive that came w/ kit. Once tacky, put the new felt w/ glides on & used clamps to hold it in place.
15. Waited for 2 hrs. (watched a movie) then re-installed front panel. Make sure that the drum (front) lid rides on top of the plastic glides.
16. Latched bottom of front panel to the metal clips. Replace the 2 screws back into place holding the front panel.
17. Snapped the wiring connectors in place where the (x) marks align.
18. Lowered the top panel & snapped it back into place
Note: All parts came w/ fast delivery & OEM fit - very satisfied! Took my time & on every chance I cleaned & vacuumed all areas of lint & dirt since the dryer hasn't been serviced for more than 10 years...

About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.

Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.

Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.

So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.

Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)

Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.

Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.

Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.

Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.

OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...

Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem

I used the puddy knife at the top of the front panel seam. I pushed in the knife till I heard the top panel release. I then did the other side of the front panel till I heard the same sound.I now could raise the top of the dryer. Inside the front panel(on the left and the right) are two philips head screws that I loosened and took off, releasing the front panel,however I had to use the needle-nose pliers to take off two electr. connections to the door switch. After I took off the front panel, there it was ,THE PROBLEM. The top glide and bottom felt were shot and worn out. I did as the directions told me, and with a 1" chissal, I gently scraped off the old glide and felt, without scratching the metal. Cleaned off the residue of old glue with Goo-Gone. Now I put glue on the top part of the portal(which I marked before I removed it) waited a minute for it to get tacky and layed the new top glide on, gently pressing down to insure adhesion. It dried right away. I did the same with the lower felt glide.I did all the reinstallation of the panels in reverse order and everything fit perfectly and smoothly. I waited about an hour to make sure all was dried (glue) and turned it on.It was alittle stiff running at first, but then it ran smooth as silk and no more squeaking or burning of my clothes.Thank you partselect!!!!

Most time was spent on web looking for disassembly diagrams! But once I got it apart it was good. And I saved about $27.00 buying from this site! Putting together was easy, clamping down felt with glue on it so it would dry right and then putting front on with drum riding on the glid was the hardest. I also put synthetic grease on rear bearing. Fired it up after repair and my wife is back dring clothes again! Products were at my door 3 days after ordering at 11:30 pm at night!

We unlatched the top of the dryer by pushing a screwdriver under the two areas where there were metal clips holding it down. We then removed the yellow clip screwed onto the top frame. We removed the front frame of the dryer by unscrewing the two screws holding the front frame on--one on either side. We didn't undo the wiring to the controls, we just kind of pivoted the front aside. We pulled the drum out from the plastic holder attached to the back of the dryer frame also unwinding the belt encircling the drum. Then we unscrewed the 3 screws holding the bearing to the back of the drum. We removed the plastic that had held the bearing by undoing the screws to the back of the frame. We installed the new bearing by screwing it to the back of the drum with 3 screws. We installed the plastic holder to the back of the frame by 2 screws and put the little ball bearing in. We used the grease that came with the kit to grease up the plastic where it held the big bearing attached to the back of the drum and inserted the drum back into the body of the dryer frame, pushing the bearing into the plastic holder. The hard part was getting the belt back around the drum and through the pulley on the motor that holds the belt. When that was accomplished, we put the yellow plastic holder back on the front frame with the screws and put the front back on after thoroughly cleaning the inside bottom area where there was a lot of lint. Then we snapped the top back into place.

The part arrived in only 3 days and I didn't even pay for express shipping!

Once I popped the top lid off, and removed the two screws holding the front on it was a breeze from there. Simply take the drive belt off by loosening the spring loaded tensioner on the bottom, lift entire drum slightly up and then out. Remove the screws to replace bearing on rear of drum (4) and the screws that hold the bushing assembly in place (2). Reverse the process and you will be up and running in no time at all.

I was about to buy an ew washer and dryer set, but thanks to PartSelect.com, i saved over $1000!

The only part of the this repair that I struggled with was researching how to pull the front and top of my dryer loose. A putty knife and good instructions solved the problem.
I removed the guides and bottom felt from the diameter of the drum and cleaned the surface by scraping with a razor knife.
I applied the glue and placed the new guides and felt along the drum, securing them with small clamps.

I left the clamps in placed while I cleaned up the inside and behind the dryer.
I reassembled the dryer and let it sit until the next day.
All is well and our drawer are no longer being gobbled up!

Removed front and top panals to dryer. Installed belt over the drum. opened back air vent panal and installed belt to pully. Reinstalled back top and front panals. Done.

The felt liner between the drum and the front door was worn out. The plasitc glides were all torn apart. Clothes would catch in the rim of the dryer.

Anyways, just lift the lid and tilt the front of the dryer down (after unplugging the control panel). Although only the top of the felt was messed up, i replaced the whole thing. I used the paint stripper to take off the glue residue from the previous felt.

Once it was clean it was easy to glue the felt pieces in place, easy reassembly and the dryer is good as new.

The design of this dryer sucks. This is the 2nd time the felt was repaired. The first time cost well over $300.

Turns out the part was only $50, and the repair was easy as can be...

1. Pop the top cover off, pressing the clips down with a flathead screwdriver.

2. Remove the two screws that hold the front cover in place, and take the cover off.

3. Remove the old glides and the felt they're attached to.

4. Scrape off any remains of the felt and glue.

5. Apply the glue they send with the part. Give it a minute to get tacky before you stick the new part on.

6. Stick the new part on. Let it sit for a few hours before re-assembling the dryer.

Thanks, PartSelect, for saving me a bunch of money, yet again!

Took the top and the front panel off (took me a while to figure this out without breaking stuff). Took off belt, pulled out drum, replaced bearing, and then I also had to replace the ball (attached to rear of drum, which slides inside the bearing).

used a putty knife to press in the font clips removed top then front panel . pulled off the old felt and glids what was left of them. then used a 2'' air grinder with a 3m scuff pad to remove the old glue and remaining felt then glued the new ones back in place gave it about 30mins to set up then put it back together and works good as new

Watch the videos for replacing the belt. The one by Kenmore is the most accurate even though it isn't GE -- the mechanisms are the same. Here is the link to the one I found most helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2wTmfurT5o

First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,

Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.

took the top off, then the front,there 2 screws that hold the front on. there's a yellow thing on the front took that off, it is held on with one screw. on the back of the dryer on the bottom is a metal plate take that off, to get to the belt take that off. then there' 3 screws in the drum, take them off ,then you can slid the drum out. then take 2 screws off the bearing bracket, that's it. easy

*****I HIGHLY RECOMMEND buying both bottom felt and top felt with glides and replacing them as a pair. Do it now!!****

First I removed the screws on the top of the control panel and lifted the control panel free. Next I pried the top cover off the drier. Reaching down inside the drier, I removed 2 screws holding the front panel in place (one on each side of the drum, screw heads are INSIDE the appliance) Then the front panel popped off toward the front, leaving the drum dangling inside the cabinet. I removed the old top felt and glides one piece) which had nothing left to them. I used a rag soaked with Acetone and a putty knife to remove the old adhesive and clean the mating surface. Following the supplied instructions (that came with the part) I glued the new piece in place. I reassembled the dryer and tested it out - I recommend giving all internal air ducts a good vacuuming while the dryer is apart - and everything seemed OK for a week. Then another article of clothing fell prey to the dryer, becoming lodged between the drum and front panel again. I suspect the culprit is the space BELOW the drum where the bottom felt is worn much more than the brand new felt just installed. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND buying both bottom felt and top felt with glides and replacing them as a pair.