DBXR463EG1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

It was really easy to find the correct part. It was shipped right away and fit perfectly when it got here. Very satisfied with the whole process. Thanks

Replaced wear pads on front top of tub, there are four. Center bearing on back of tub, replaced tension pulley and drive belt. This solved the problem. Repair takes approximately 1 hour. Belt installation can be a pain but can be done once you know how. First make a loop in belt, extend that loop down and around drive on end of motor shaft. Then loop belt around outside edge of idler pulley. Extend one side of belt around bottom of tube. Keep tension on belt as it will fall off, if not. Pull on belt and wrap belt around side and top of tube till is completely around the entire tube and then push and lift tube till the small center plastic bearing is fully pushed into the hole in back center of frame. Spin tube slowly to center and reinstall framing and covers. Your done. Installing belt can be frustrating but be patient, you can do it.

Unplug the dryer. On the back, I unscrewed the top three screws that hold on the instrument panel and (from the back) slide the panel to my left to disconnect from the top. I opened the dryer door and removed the two screws on the inside top of the doorway to remove the top panel of the dryer. Inside the top of the dryer are two screws to remove so that I could swing the front panel of the dryer out to replace the lower front felt drum seal. I needed to use wd-40 on these screws. When the panel opens, there is no way to disconnect the wires to remove the panel, so I had to prop it up with something so it didn't tip over and damage the wiring; a sturdy chair worked. Then, I heared the drum pop off and drop down a little. I replaced the seal according to the video; by putting it in the groove and pressing it down into the tabs with a flat head screwdriver or something smooth with a little of the seal hanging over the groove at each end. While I was in there, I cleaned out the lint and the wd-40 I used earlier. Then I closed the panel, lifting the drum back into place, ensuring that the dryer drum would turn before and after I replaced the screws. I replaced the top panel and the screws inside the dryer door and slid the instrument panel back into place and replaced those screws. The dryer works great and very quietly now!

My timer and timer knob needed to be replaced. I had watched the video when I had ordered the parts and it was that easy. My husband unscrewed the back panel of the dryer and removed the wires that were attached to the timer. We had written down how the timer was wired so we would replace them in the order in which they belonged. We had reconected the wires and replaced the back panel. We replaced the knob and it was all done. This saved us from having to purchase a new dryer. Now my dryer works better then before, no more second guessing what tempature it was on.

Ididwhat the paper showed it was easy

As I pulled each of the 3 bolts, I put a alignment rod into each of the holes. After I pulled the old deflector off, I had basically 3 pins/rods to slip the new deflector on and keep everything in basic alignment. Pulled one rod, reinstalled the bolt, so on and so on. Ran motor for noises or misalignment and had neither. Pretty simple repair.

Followed instructions from a GE video on how to repair the dryer. The repair was easy and the instructions excellent. The front drum bearing was badly worn, which is reasonable given its age.

Replaced lower drum seal and upper (front) drum bearing

We thought the timer was out on the dryer so I was looking for a new timer when I came across a video on your site about replacing a broken timer knob, so I decided to check the knob first and sure enough it was cracked. This video saved me a lot of time and money. Shipment was quick. Thanks.

New bearings & belt about $ 60.00. Not hard with the help of diagrams on the internet.

PartSelect's troubleshooting page allowed me to quickly diagnose the problem as a worn drum bearing and/or bearing slides. How-to videos made it look so easy I ordered parts (as well as a new drive belt and felt that I figured I'd change while the dryer was open). Two days later the parts were delivered, I got a screw driver out, and dove in. Four screws and 25 minutes later the dryer was running quietly! The videos do a great job of detailing all necessary steps. My wife was disappointed that we didn't end up with a new dryer, but spending $45 to save $800 is awesome in my book!

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

I was certain there was a cat stuck in my dryer -- there was a loud squeal and grind. Must have crawled in through the outside vent?? After fighting with many screws trying to get the dryer apart I figured out there was this thing called the internet and watched some videos -- too easy. Pulled it apart and saw some grinding on the front where the teflon slides were and pulled out the drum to check the rear bearing -- seemed sloppy so I order those parts and then some. Parts came fast. Put it together with the kids help from inside the drum to screw on the rear bearing from inside -- gave the drum a roll just for kicks. Put it all together and found it would grind when the belt and front cover were on, but was quiet when the belt was off -- hmmm. Still couldn't find a cat anywhere inside the thing. Checked the blower, idler wheel, motor -- all seemed to rotate quiet and fine by hand without noise or friction. Read some more on the new fangled internet listening to different permutations of grinds and squeels. Only lead was to check the blower retaining bolt which had looked fine. Threw a socket on it and sure enough it was way loose and the blower had some very small nicks in it -- probably from the dm cat going through it. Turns out when I was checking it I was pushing it just far enough in that it wouldn't grind. When I put it back together the rotational force would cause it to slip back out and grind. I did see this shaggy ferrel cat in my yard today -- so I'm still not sure if I actually fixed anything or if he just crawled back out.

The handle I ordered snapped into place in less than 5 minutes. It works perfectly. Thank you so much. . .

First I unplugged the power to the dryer, opened the dryer door and removed the two srews from under the hood of the dryer, then i removed the lid completely. then there is a screw on both sides of the drum which i removed (stubby screwdriver is highly recommended). then i lifted the front door of of the bottom plates, disconeccted the wiring on the bottom left that way i can replace the the front drum bearing very easily. I replaced the the front drum bearing and the drum bearing slides, there are 4 total(2 white and 2 grey). and then put back everything the way i took it off. It was a very fast and easy fix.