DBLR333GG0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

snapped in new latch

I removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws located under the front lip of the dryer over the dryer door. Then I removed the dryer door by removing the screws holding the hinges. I then removed the front panel of the dryer by removing the two screws at the top inside two corners. I the removed the old Dryer Drum Slide. The Drum Bearings were almost completley worn off. I installed the (4) new Drum Bearings (2 Clear or White and 2 brown) the same way they were installed on the old Dryer Drum Slide on the new Dryer Drum Slide. I then installed the Dryer Drum Slide the way I removed the old one. Then I pulled the old Lower Front Drum Seal-Felt and replaced with the new one. Works like new!

watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!

Open the dryer door and remove the two screws in the top of the door opening that hold the top of the dryer on, and then remove the dryer top. On the inside of the dryer, there are two screws that hold the front of the dryer on. Remove one screw from each side of the dryer near the top, and the front of the dryer will fall away. The drum slides are visible when you lean the front panel of the dryer out away from the drum. You can replace the drum slides without even removing the front of the dryer completely. Pull out the old drum slides and insert the new slides. Lift the drum slighly from the inside through the dryer door as you tilt the front back into place. Reinsert the screws holding the front of the dryer on and tighten. BE CAREFUL not to drop the screws or you may have to disassemble the dryer to get at the dropped screws. Reinstall the top of the dryer. It is a difficult fit which requres inserting into 3 tabs and sliding the top into place. Check that the top is flush before inserting and tightening the screws in the top of the door opening.

A quick look inside verified that the drum slides were worn through but I also found that the plastic drum bearing that holds the slides was cracked in a couple different places. Ordered a new drum bearing, new slides, and decided to replace the felt seal as well since it looked pretty ratty. Parts arrived quickly after ordering and installation literally took 15-20 minutes. Purrs like a baby now. Steps: Unplug dryer. remove two screws which hold top of dryer to front. Remove two screws which hold front (door) to rest of unit. No need to disconnect wiring to front door, just make sure not to pull the wires out! Install new parts. Put it back together in reverse order.

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

To quiet the noise temporarly I would spray silicone into the dryer drum groove on the front inside panel.Got tired of this and removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws under the front bottom of the dryer top. Remove two screws, one on each side of front panel(screws are on the inside). Lift the front panel straight up and swing to the side. Keep the wires connected to the panel. There is plenty of room to move panel about. Note: I replaced the drum bearing thinking it was a one piece unit with the teflon rub strips. All I had to do is order the teflon rub strips and I would have saved 24 dollars. Reverse the disassembly process to assemble.

Remove front by removing two screws at top of door opening. Remove front of dryer carefully becsuse of electrical connections for door switch. Drum sliders simply silde in slots at top. (4 are required for total replacement) Door seal simply fits in the groove and locks over end tab. NOTE Do not run dryer any more than absolutelty nessary without lower seal in place.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

Clips on the inside of the door handle had snapped off, 1 minute later it worked like new. NO TOOLS required! So happy my older appliances can have new life by the parts carried by PartSelect. Thanks!

Took apart by removing the top and front panel. Found drum rubbing due to worn glides and felt.

My husband broke the door handle, but of course, i had to be the one to order the part & fix it. I ordered the part on the weekend and much to my suprise it was on my doorstep on Tuesday when I got home from work. Then I saw the part was shipped from nearby Louisville. I was overly happy with partselect!!!!! All I did was open the packaging and clip the dryer handle into the 4 holes. Easy as pie!!!!

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.