DBLR333GE2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

To quiet the noise temporarly I would spray silicone into the dryer drum groove on the front inside panel.Got tired of this and removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws under the front bottom of the dryer top. Remove two screws, one on each side of front panel(screws are on the inside). Lift the front panel straight up and swing to the side. Keep the wires connected to the panel. There is plenty of room to move panel about. Note: I replaced the drum bearing thinking it was a one piece unit with the teflon rub strips. All I had to do is order the teflon rub strips and I would have saved 24 dollars. Reverse the disassembly process to assemble.

Remove front by removing two screws at top of door opening. Remove front of dryer carefully becsuse of electrical connections for door switch. Drum sliders simply silde in slots at top. (4 are required for total replacement) Door seal simply fits in the groove and locks over end tab. NOTE Do not run dryer any more than absolutelty nessary without lower seal in place.

I took off the broken knob since it was already loose. Then I removed the new part from its wrapper and lined the bolt up the knob. Inserting and pushing until it felt like the knob had a firm grip the job was done.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

Took apart by removing the top and front panel. Found drum rubbing due to worn glides and felt.

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

First I laid the cabinet on its front so that it was easier to remove the back sheetmetal screws on the right hand side. I then opened up the right side of the cabinet and held it open with a 2X4. I was able to reach inside the cabinet and unplug the wiring. It was more difficult reaching the ground wire and removing the screw that it was attached to however i found that using a socket with an extension was the most effective. The cordset popped right out with the assistance of a flat head screwdriver. The cordset and ground wire were set in place and attached without trouble.
It was difficult trying to figure out how to open up the cabinet without instruction!!!

I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!

The PartSelect company's "how to" repair videos are OUTSTANDING. Thank you! The videos provided a comprehensive overview of what to expect in terms of clothes dryer disassembly, component replacement and reassembly. The videos were invaluable tutorials for prior-to-disassembly work.

I ordered all the following parts which I felt were likely excessively worn--white and green bearing slides (two of each required), rear drum bearing kit, drive belt, and idler pulley wheel--to address the noisiness issue.

For your consideration: Since our dryer is 12 years old and would be disassembled anyway, I decided to order a new dryer drum belt and idler pulley, to replace these two constant-use items as preventive maintenance.

Two notes.
One: When replacing the dryer drum bearing parts, you need a T25 torx bit to loosen and remove the three torx-head screws. But using my T25 torx bit-head-style screwdriver, it was impossible to loosen them. Fortunately, I had a T25 torx bit, which I could mount in a socket wrench, which DID allow me to loosen those three torx-head screws without damage/breakage. WHEW! Recommend you are similarly prepared!
Two: If you purchase the "Rear Drum Bearing Kit," it already comes with the the "Drum Bearing Sleeve" and "Retainer O-Ring" components I thought I would also need--no need to purchase separately. I returned those two items, unopened, for a refund.

All together, from dryer disassembly to, component replacement, to a thorough vacuuming/cleaning, to reassembly and an operational check, it took about four hours. The dryer is now nearly noiseless again! Success!

I consider myself reasonably good with tools and have a fair amount of electrical and mechanical skill. My wife assisted with extra hands a couple times, too, seriously reducing my frustration level. Depending on your abilities, you'll take more time or less time than the four hours it took me. I'm certain I saved at least a couple hundred dollars by doing this maintenance myself.

In summary, the PartSelect person taking my order was knowledgeable and professional, I received my parts two days after ordering, the parts worked perfectly, and the company refunded my two, unopened returned parts promptly. Overall, a terrific experience. I highly recommend them to any capable do-it-yourselfer.

Thanks, PartSelect!

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

First, I removed the 2 screws for the top panel, lifted the top panel off, then I removed the 2 screws holding the front panel, tilted it forward to clear the drum, disconnected the door switch and set the panel aside. I then installed the 4 slides on the new front bearing, removed the light socket from the old bearing, removed and discarded the old bearing. I installed the light socket into the new bearing and the bearing assembly snapped into place on the front panel. I then re-connected the door switch, aligned the front panel with the drum, secured the front panel with 2 screws, then carefully placed the top panel back in place and secured it with 2 screws. I checked the rotation of the drum and it worked like a champ. Matter of fact, that same day I put this dryer and a matching washer up for sale at 8:30 am on October 31st and by 9:20 am I already sold them!! I delivered and hooked them up and the dryer works great!!!

I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.

1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.
2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.
3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.
4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.
5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.
6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.
7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.

Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.
8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.