DBLR333ET0AA General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I used a pair of pliers to turn my dryer on until I broke the center part where the knob went. I order the part that was in the dryer first and it came the next day. When it got here I realized I still needed the knob. It came the next day also. It took my handyman about 15 minutes to replace both and he also cleaned out all of the missing socks and other items behind my dryer. Good Job!

This is the third time for a belt on this 28 year old dryer. Not too much to it. Unplug the dryer. Open the door. Remove the screws holding on the front panel and loosen the screw at the bottom. Disconnect the wires to the door switch and lift off the front panel and start up the shop vac to clean out the lint - there is a lot to be found in various places. Slide the new belt over the front of the drum and make sure there are no twists. You can now reverse the order to mounte the front panel but don't close the top so you have light to see inside. Go around to the back panel and remove the machine bolts holding on the access panel at the back. This allows access to the motor and belt tensioner. Get the shop vac out here and get to some more lint. Google the model number to find a diagram on how to route the belt. Put the belt on the motor shaft and around the tensioner as depicted. Occaisionally the plastic idler pully is worn and this can be the cause of the brokent belt. If the idler wheel does not spin freely, squeads or is cracked it should be replaced or you will be right back replacing the belt again. If all is fine it is time for a test run. CAUTION - you can plug the dryer in but keep your hands out of the cabinet as there are live exposed 220 volt terminals exposed. This allows you to observe that all is working and not binding during a test run with NO heat. If all is fine, unplug the dryer and put the covers back on. Reconnect the exhaust hose (now is a good time to clean that and the vent to outdoors as well).

Removed door strike and latch, replaced, works like new.

I was unsure of how to disassemble the machine to reach the belt, but a YouTube video gave me confidence. Thanks to Partselect.com, the great customer service, and fast delivery. I had my dryer up and running really fast! The process was really not difficult at all and it gave me a chance to vacuum out years of trapped lint. I am so happy to have saved hundreds of dollars, not having to buy a new dryer.I would urge other folks to tackle these relatively simple repairs, the right parts are a phone call away. Frank

Followed the on line instructions.

the switch was stuck couldn't get the switch to pop out to stop the dryer when opening the door light inside also wouldnt go on. it only took a few min to take it the switch and replace the new switch the light now works also stops when opening the door it made my day easierhow easy it was to fix it. only take to use a pliers and screw driver.

unscrewed and lifted top of dryer put belt around drum closed top put belt around motor pulley and belt tensioner and finished.( remember to unplug unit before working on it.)

I didn't know what was wrong at first, only that the dryer would not start. I bought it used so had no fear of taking it apart to diagnose. Found the broken belt inside, ordered a replacement, installed the new belt, then crossed my fingers. Was pleasantly surprised that was all that was wrong and that for less than $20, including shipping, a few hours of my time, and a little help from YouTube videos the dryer is working again!

easy to fix took less than 10 minutes

Simply popped the old broken part out and popped the new part into place. I wasn't sure if it was the Latch Door or the Door Strike. Once the parts arrived, it was clear the Door Strike was not the issue.

Well, I purchased this dryer new in 1993, and the rear bearing went bad the winter of 1997. It was late at night, the parts warehouse was closed, and a new rear bearing back then was $25 which I didn't have, but I had skills and a brass garden hose quick disconnect fitting I modified. Well, 17 years later (Jan 2014) the brass bearing wore out along with the Drum Slide Bearing and its TEFLON slides. I've had this dryer apart every two years for a thorough cleaning up until 3 years ago.We moved to a newer home and this unit was the last thing on my list. So taking it apart and putting it back together again was a snap. The total repair would have taken only an hour, maybe an hour and a half, but due to parts on order, it took 3 days. Anyway, it got its cleaning, the new parts installed and fired back up in under 75 minutes. I figure I've got another ten years of use coming from it. If this is your first time repairing this or any other appliance, all I can say is take your time, and if your memory is short, use that cell phone camera or any other digital camera you might own and photograph, photograph, photograph. Record everything. And keep it on file. I've posted photos on my FB page for the women I know that are single or whose husband needs help with these fixes. Keep your dryer clean. Set up a schedule for every other year to dismantle and thoroughly clean the unit. The worse thing to happen is a dryer/lint fire. And believe me, there are areas where lint accumulates that don't go into the lint screen and you can't reach with a brush.

It was only a matter of putting a new knob in place of the broken one. No tools required.

Knob stem was split, leaving the metal bushing on the dryer's Start switch. Used pliers to remove metal collet. Aligned new knob to switch, and firmly pushed replacement part into place. Tested results and found it to be satisfactory.

Pulled on the two ends towards the outside edge and it popped right off. snapped the new on.The new one is stronger and Partselect shipped it to my door in 3 days.Thanks

Replacing the door handle was a "snap" literally. All I needed to do was remove the handle from its plastic wrap; line up the inserts on the handle with the holes in the door and snap it in place. It was that simple.