DBLR333EG1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !

It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.
Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the top
Remove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each side
Remove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes off
Lift drum out of dryer
Use the torx bit to remove the bearing
If you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housing
This is the perfect time to remove all dust bunnies
Re-install everything in reverse order

Inserted handle into slots

Replaced cycle thermostat.

my problem was easy, i orderd a new lint filter, for a
dryer that is at least 10y/o. it came to me by FEDEX,
in 3 days. i threw out the old one and put in the new
one. easy peasy. i will say that this website had what i
wanted and got it to me very quickly. good job by
PARTSELECT......

Disconnect Power from the Dryer
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.
Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner
(this is probably the hardest part).
Put the front and top back together.
Turned the power back on. Job done

I reviewed the video instructions on the website; these were invaluable to understand the task. Since the dryer drum had to be removed to replace the thermostat, it was prudent to replace the drive belt at disassembly. Great job on the videos to see the extra effort required to install the new belt around the tensioner pulley while supporting the drum. I will use this site again when a need arises, because they are quick to ship the ordered part(s) and help the DIY handyman make repairs via the videos.

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!

I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it.
I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first!
Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another.
Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it.
I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post.
Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge.
Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel.
I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter.
Put on the top panel and done!

disconnect power plug unscrew 3 screws in back. lean forward remove button disconnect 2 wires in back of switch. put switch connect 2 wires and button. connect 3 screws in the back. ready to start working

1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.

I received the replacement part I ordered from PartSelect.com within 3 days of placing the order. I opened the plastic bag it came in. I snapped the part into the holes left vacant by aforementioned abscence of broken part.

First, I unplugged the dryer, carefully so as not to electrocute myself. Then, I removed the panel on the top, back of the dryer, using a Phillips screwdriver. Then I removed the old timer and unplugged all the connectors, one at a time, so as to make sure I plugged them back in to the correct positions on the new timer. I had to use pliers because they were very hard to remove. Then, I plugged them into the same positions on the new timer, which was easy. Then I replaced the timer into position. Then, because I could not use the old knob since it still had part of the old cheap soft plastic post stuck inside it, I took a knob for the power rinse control off of my washer, since I never use that anyway, and I put it onto the new cheap soft plastic post on the new timer, and it works like a charm. I plan to be very, very gentle with that knob, knowing, as I do, that the post that it turns is not much harder than room temperature butter and that, if I break it, it will cost me over $70 dollars to get another one, and it also will not even contain a new knob, even though the one I borrowed from my washer will be unusable because it will have half of the old post stuck in it. Finally, I replaced the panel on the top, back of the dryer and plugged in the dryer.

Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!