DBLR333EE2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

A quick look inside verified that the drum slides were worn through but I also found that the plastic drum bearing that holds the slides was cracked in a couple different places. Ordered a new drum bearing, new slides, and decided to replace the felt seal as well since it looked pretty ratty. Parts arrived quickly after ordering and installation literally took 15-20 minutes. Purrs like a baby now. Steps: Unplug dryer. remove two screws which hold top of dryer to front. Remove two screws which hold front (door) to rest of unit. No need to disconnect wiring to front door, just make sure not to pull the wires out! Install new parts. Put it back together in reverse order.

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

To quiet the noise temporarly I would spray silicone into the dryer drum groove on the front inside panel.Got tired of this and removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws under the front bottom of the dryer top. Remove two screws, one on each side of front panel(screws are on the inside). Lift the front panel straight up and swing to the side. Keep the wires connected to the panel. There is plenty of room to move panel about. Note: I replaced the drum bearing thinking it was a one piece unit with the teflon rub strips. All I had to do is order the teflon rub strips and I would have saved 24 dollars. Reverse the disassembly process to assemble.

Remove front by removing two screws at top of door opening. Remove front of dryer carefully becsuse of electrical connections for door switch. Drum sliders simply silde in slots at top. (4 are required for total replacement) Door seal simply fits in the groove and locks over end tab. NOTE Do not run dryer any more than absolutelty nessary without lower seal in place.

I took off the broken knob since it was already loose. Then I removed the new part from its wrapper and lined the bolt up the knob. Inserting and pushing until it felt like the knob had a firm grip the job was done.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

The PartSelect company's "how to" repair videos are OUTSTANDING. Thank you! The videos provided a comprehensive overview of what to expect in terms of clothes dryer disassembly, component replacement and reassembly. The videos were invaluable tutorials for prior-to-disassembly work.

I ordered all the following parts which I felt were likely excessively worn--white and green bearing slides (two of each required), rear drum bearing kit, drive belt, and idler pulley wheel--to address the noisiness issue.

For your consideration: Since our dryer is 12 years old and would be disassembled anyway, I decided to order a new dryer drum belt and idler pulley, to replace these two constant-use items as preventive maintenance.

Two notes.
One: When replacing the dryer drum bearing parts, you need a T25 torx bit to loosen and remove the three torx-head screws. But using my T25 torx bit-head-style screwdriver, it was impossible to loosen them. Fortunately, I had a T25 torx bit, which I could mount in a socket wrench, which DID allow me to loosen those three torx-head screws without damage/breakage. WHEW! Recommend you are similarly prepared!
Two: If you purchase the "Rear Drum Bearing Kit," it already comes with the the "Drum Bearing Sleeve" and "Retainer O-Ring" components I thought I would also need--no need to purchase separately. I returned those two items, unopened, for a refund.

All together, from dryer disassembly to, component replacement, to a thorough vacuuming/cleaning, to reassembly and an operational check, it took about four hours. The dryer is now nearly noiseless again! Success!

I consider myself reasonably good with tools and have a fair amount of electrical and mechanical skill. My wife assisted with extra hands a couple times, too, seriously reducing my frustration level. Depending on your abilities, you'll take more time or less time than the four hours it took me. I'm certain I saved at least a couple hundred dollars by doing this maintenance myself.

In summary, the PartSelect person taking my order was knowledgeable and professional, I received my parts two days after ordering, the parts worked perfectly, and the company refunded my two, unopened returned parts promptly. Overall, a terrific experience. I highly recommend them to any capable do-it-yourselfer.

Thanks, PartSelect!

Took apart by removing the top and front panel. Found drum rubbing due to worn glides and felt.

Washer/dryer belongs to a friend. Originally, the problem was that the dryer wouldn’t heat, so I opened it up, and removed the drum thinking it might be the heating element. It wasn’t, and the ohm reading confirmed this. It turned out to be a burnt wire connector to the element ( unknown to me, and found out later, was that the start switch had remained continuously in the down position because the switch was pressed too far down and thus remained locked “on” in place under the surrounding cabinet frame. This, in my opinion, caused for a continual call for heat and thus burnt the wire.)

I replaced the burnt wire/connector and reassembled. Now the dryer would heat, but would only run if the start button was continually depressed. Let go of the button, and the dryer stopped.

Repair pros suggested a new start switch. I bought a new start switch along with a new interlock switch (it basically shuts off dryer if belt breaks because lack of a belt releases pressure on the pulley that keeps switch depressed.) Apparently they can go bad, too.

It turns out neither of these switches were bad. Instead, upon further inspection, after the first installation of the drum belt, the L-shaped bracket which holds the pulley for belt tension became dislocated from its correct position and was not allowing for the depression of the interlock switch, causing the dryer to “read” broken belt, and thus, not run.

I loosened the motor bracket to allow placing the bracket in the correct position. Reassembled and all was good.
PSA - almost every sheet metal edge is razor sharp.
In the process of returning parts. Now in the process of returning parts.

My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

I have read other postings which describe most of the procedure very well, so I'm just going to add things that should be considered, which I have not read about here.
Removing the drum proved difficult due to the lack of room on the two sides.The vent blower motor bracket is at the front bottom of the dryer, and when the two screws on either the left or right side are removed, the dryer sides spread more easily and allow the drum to be removed or re-installed more easily.
Next, the rear drum bearing I bought has a rubber o-ring which holds it in place. There is a good chance this o-ring will be hard and brittle after years of service, and will crumble when removed, in order to replace the bearing. I had to run to the local hardware store to get a new o-ring, and could only find one that did was not rated for high heat usage. I presumed once the drum is re-installed that the bearing can't dislodge even with a missing o-ring. I think it just holds the bearing in place while removing and re-installing the drum, but I cannot be certain about this.So if you plan to replace the rear drum bearing, make sure to also order the o-ring that holds it in place. It is doubtful you can re-use the old one depending on the age of your dryer.
Replacing the old white belt tensioning pulley requires the removal and re-installation of a "nut" that has no threads. It is forced on and off and not simple to re-install. The removal was easy simply by using a wrench to "unscrew" it counterclockwise. But re-installing it is another matter. It requires force to get it back onto the shaft. I saw a tip to use a 7/16" socket placed over the nut and hit with a hammer while bracing the bracket from the other side. I did this by used a smaller tool, linesman's pliers, which provided the force needed. Install it about 1/4" past the end of the bracket shaft. Careful, that nut has sharp edges and I ended up bleeding from that process. Three hands would help: one to brace the bracket, one to hold the nut and socket in place, and one to hammer. So good luck with that. Probably there is a smarter way to do this.
If you replace the old white plastic belt tensioning pulley with a new yellow one, it is not simple to understand how to re-install the belt properly. The videos do not do the trick adequately. I did find one on youtube where they removed the dryer side in order to show the belt installation and I had an "aha moment". Since you cannot see the belt, the pulleys, the motor, or anything else during installation, it is not a simple thing to do. Here are my tips: Before re-installing the drum, move the belt tensioning pulley bracket to the right (when facing the dryer front) and you will see a little spot where the bracket will stay to the right when engaged in this spot. Engage the bracket and then proceed to re-install the drum. That way, when you reach under the drum to set the belt properly on the pulleys, you won't have to engage the tensioning bracket without being able to see. Once the belt is in place, carefully remove the bracket from the right holding spot and allow it to move back to the left operating position. I used two hands and don't think I could have done it with one. When the belts are new, they can be naturally twisted and you have to be careful to install the belt with no twist. I had to do it twice to get it right. If someone can take up the top belt slack for you, it's easy to feel the belt underneath the drum and get any twists out.
Next, i had a hard time inserting the drum back into the dryer and finding the hole where the bearing inserts. The problem is, if you are not careful, it's easy to move, bend, or break the heater wires which surround the hole you need to locate blindly and slip the drum bearing into. I did bend those wires, but luckily not break them. In hindsight, applying some masking tape to the rear inside panel of the dryer right at the top, left and right of the drum BEFORE removing the drum would have made it much easier estimating the proper drum height while maneuvering the bearing into the rear hole. Then remove the masking tape when done.
I ordered a new top plastic front bearing that supports the drum in the front. Good thing I did because mine was split about 5" where one set of the green and white sliders install. I had one white "plastic" insert visible. The other one plus the two green bearings were totally missing. No wonder it was squealing.
Finally, the hardest part for me was re-installing the top of the dryer! Take a good look before removing it so you can see exactly how the top fits to the dryer and how the parts need to be lined up first.
Thanks to PartSelect.com! Every part was correct and the installation videos gave me so much help. Also, parts arrived in two days, which surprised me. I will be ordering all parts here.

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!

First, I removed the 2 screws for the top panel, lifted the top panel off, then I removed the 2 screws holding the front panel, tilted it forward to clear the drum, disconnected the door switch and set the panel aside. I then installed the 4 slides on the new front bearing, removed the light socket from the old bearing, removed and discarded the old bearing. I installed the light socket into the new bearing and the bearing assembly snapped into place on the front panel. I then re-connected the door switch, aligned the front panel with the drum, secured the front panel with 2 screws, then carefully placed the top panel back in place and secured it with 2 screws. I checked the rotation of the drum and it worked like a champ. Matter of fact, that same day I put this dryer and a matching washer up for sale at 8:30 am on October 31st and by 9:20 am I already sold them!! I delivered and hooked them up and the dryer works great!!!