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DBL333GB8CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for DBL333GB8CC parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the DBL333GB8CC
1-15 of 42
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Broken Knob Post

  • Customer: Jaren from Lemoore CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 70 of 85 people found this instruction helpful
First I unplugged the dryer, then I removed the access panel on the back of the control panel. I removed the wires from the back of the switch...Here is where I messed up. I removed the switch prior to ordering the part, the bad part is the way I removed the part. When you get the new part in you will be able to see how it will be mounted to the control panel. I had no idea, so I did what was necessary to remove it. Needless to say, I bent the hell out of the hole that the switch mounts in. In turn, the installation of the new switch did not go as easily as I would have liked. After straightening out some metal and drowning the thing in epoxy, the new switch is installed. I hooked the wires back up on the back of the switch, plug in the dryer, and dry some clothes. Standing victorious over the dryer with beer in hand, not only did I accomplish the mission but I learned my lesson... destructive removal = BAD!

Loud rhythmic squeaking

  • Customer: Mark from San Diego CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 22 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.

Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.

Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.

So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.

Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)

Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.

Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.

Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.

Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.

OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...

Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem

Dryer would not start

  • Customer: Ray from Kingwood TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 20 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
The switch made a humming sound when I turned it so I thought that might be the problem. Using the instructions on this Web site I took the top panel of the dryer off (after unplugging it), unplugged two wires leading from the switch (needed pliers for this), and removed the switch unit by rotating it counterclockwise (when behind it).
The replacement part came in two days. The installation went a lot quicker-maybe ten minutes.

Plastic stem that the knob attaches to, broke off

  • Customer: lee from port charlotte FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
unscrewed the back plate off of the dryer. Disconnected the the wires off of the switch. Remember to to unplug your dryer from the wall first!!!. Reconnect the wires to the new switch and twist back into place. Be careful not to bend the metal tabs. Put the back plate back on and plug in. Put on new knob and the wife was smiling. Took about 8 minutes to repair.

Loud screeching noises from the rear of the dryer whenever in was running.

  • Customer: Kenneth from Boise ID
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
We unlatched the top of the dryer by pushing a screwdriver under the two areas where there were metal clips holding it down. We then removed the yellow clip screwed onto the top frame. We removed the front frame of the dryer by unscrewing the two screws holding the front frame on--one on either side. We didn't undo the wiring to the controls, we just kind of pivoted the front aside. We pulled the drum out from the plastic holder attached to the back of the dryer frame also unwinding the belt encircling the drum. Then we unscrewed the 3 screws holding the bearing to the back of the drum. We removed the plastic that had held the bearing by undoing the screws to the back of the frame. We installed the new bearing by screwing it to the back of the drum with 3 screws. We installed the plastic holder to the back of the frame by 2 screws and put the little ball bearing in. We used the grease that came with the kit to grease up the plastic where it held the big bearing attached to the back of the drum and inserted the drum back into the body of the dryer frame, pushing the bearing into the plastic holder. The hard part was getting the belt back around the drum and through the pulley on the motor that holds the belt. When that was accomplished, we put the yellow plastic holder back on the front frame with the screws and put the front back on after thoroughly cleaning the inside bottom area where there was a lot of lint. Then we snapped the top back into place.

Intermittent starting gave way to no starting

  • Customer: Carl from Newburgh IN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
a. researched internet to find how to access rotary starter switch
b. isolated all electrical input at breaker box
c. removed 4 torx screws on top of dryer head
d. lowered dryer head (swivels toward front)
e. pulled electrical connections from back of switch
f. turned and pulled thus releasing rotary switch
g. reversed procedure above
h. reconnected electrical
i. started dryer - it worked first time
j. watched football until wife came home
k. told wife dryer was fixed and what a bear it was to get it done :o)
l. that night accepted my reward for working so hard at fixing the dryer and saving us a bundle. :o)
m. now we are both smiling

Broken Knob

  • Customer: Dylan from Davie FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I took off the broken knob since it was already loose. Then I removed the new part from its wrapper and lined the bolt up the knob. Inserting and pushing until it felt like the knob had a firm grip the job was done.

Dryer was not working.

  • Customer: Frank from Rochester NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front and top panals to dryer. Installed belt over the drum. opened back air vent panal and installed belt to pully. Reinstalled back top and front panals. Done.

Dryer was squeeking for a while, and then eventually just quit working.

  • Customer: Jesse from Battle Ground WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Took the top and the front panel off (took me a while to figure this out without breaking stuff). Took off belt, pulled out drum, replaced bearing, and then I also had to replace the ball (attached to rear of drum, which slides inside the bearing).

Plastic shaft on switch broken.

  • Customer: Harry from Bradenton FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
On arrival at rental in Florida, knob & half of shaft are on top of the dryer. Thanks! It's fixed

dryer would not start

  • Customer: Marie from Charlotte NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
My husband replaced the rotary start switch that we bought. However, the dryer still would not start. He then tested each remaining switch/dial (before we spent more money on parts) to see if the dryer would start if the electrical connection by-passed that part. None of the top panel switches was the culprit. Then he pulled the door switch. The dryer worked with the switch out, but still connected. He reset each wire, put the door switch back in place, and it failed again. He pulled the switch, added electrical tape to all the connections, and put it back. The dryer works fine now.

load noise

  • Customer: jeff from coldwater MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
took the top off, then the front,there 2 screws that hold the front on. there's a yellow thing on the front took that off, it is held on with one screw. on the back of the dryer on the bottom is a metal plate take that off, to get to the belt take that off. then there' 3 screws in the drum, take them off ,then you can slid the drum out. then take 2 screws off the bearing bracket, that's it. easy

Broken shaft in rear bearing

  • Customer: frederick W from wall NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 3 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Take the top off and front off and disconnect the belt and lift the drum out and there it is . Easy and alot cheaper then new dryer and works like new .

there was no problem

  • Customer: Edward from Garrison NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 2 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
installation exactly how your directions told me on the computer

Conversion from natural gas to LP

  • Customer: Chad from Watertown NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 2 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part of this conversion was getting the front cover off the dryer. The worst part about this conversion in all was that I only needed the 2 little orifices that cost $6 but I was told I needed the entire burner conversion. So I spent $80 on everything and I can't return any of the other things because it was part of a kit. That's just disappointing. At least I have a new igniter and burner if I need them in the future.
All Instructions for the DBL333GB8CC
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