Models > DB3710DB

DB3710DB Samsung Dishwasher - Overview

Sections of the DB3710DB

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Manuals & Care Guides for DB3710DB

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Door Latch with Switches - NO Handle – Part Number: WPW10275768
Door Latch with Switches - NO Handle
★★★★★
★★★★★
(20)
PartSelect #: PS11751688
Manufacturer #: WPW10275768
This door latch, used in dishwashers, is located at the top of the door and locks the door shut when the dishwasher is working. If the door will not close or is damaged, changing the latch could be th...
$56.27
  In Stock
Lower Spray Arm - Shield Included – Part Number: WP6-917642
Lower Spray Arm - Shield Included
★★★★★
★★★★★
(3)
PartSelect #: PS11743058
Manufacturer #: WP6-917642
This spray arm is located on the lower half of your dishwasher. Water is forced through this spray arm by the unit's pump and motor assembly. The force of the water propels the spray arms, spraying wa...
$84.83
  In Stock
Door Switch – Part Number: WP99002751
Door Switch
PartSelect #: PS11747715
Manufacturer #: WP99002751
This door switch is over an inch long. It is both black and red in color and has two metallic terminals extending from its body.
  No Longer Available
Motor – Part Number: 6-919922
Motor
PartSelect #: PS2341119
Manufacturer #: 6-919922
The pump gasket and seal kit included in this assembly can each be ordered separately.
  No Longer Available
HOUSING- B – Part Number: 99002575
HOUSING- B
PartSelect #: PS2099933
Manufacturer #: 99002575
  No Longer Available
WOOD PANEL KIT (Black) – Part Number: DAX3000AXB
WOOD PANEL KIT (Black)
PartSelect #: PS4177347
Manufacturer #: DAX3000AXB
  No Longer Available
O-RING, DRAIN PUMP – Part Number: 99002857
O-RING, DRAIN PUMP
PartSelect #: PS4136896
Manufacturer #: 99002857
$19.60
  Special Order
Upper dishwasher rack wheel – Part Number: 99002947
Upper dishwasher rack wheel
PartSelect #: PS4275542
Manufacturer #: 99002947
$23.24
  Special Order
CAP, WASH ARM – Part Number: 99002654
CAP, WASH ARM
PartSelect #: PS4136861
Manufacturer #: 99002654
$10.05
  Special Order
Manual, use & care (series a) (non-illus) – Part Number: 6918977
Manual, use & care (series a) (non-illus)
PartSelect #: PS4274536
Manufacturer #: 6918977
$70.42
  Special Order
Rail stop – Part Number: 99002623
Rail stop
PartSelect #: PS4275519
Manufacturer #: 99002623
$9.14
  Special Order
Float – Part Number: 99002630
Float
PartSelect #: PS4275520
Manufacturer #: 99002630
  No Longer Available

Questions And Answers for DB3710DB

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Common Symptoms of the DB3710DB

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Door latch failure
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Not cleaning dishes properly
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Door won’t close
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Will Not Start
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Noisy
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Leaking
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Wash motor not pumping and making a grinding sound
I went to PartSelect and found the parts pictorial. A replacement motor was listed for 3 series of the dishwasher. The series can be identified by the first 2 digits of the dishwasher serial number. Mine was 22 so I needed parts for the series 20 dishwasher.

According to the pictorial it looked like the motor seals were included with the replacement motor. When the motor arrived, I found the seals were not included. I called PartSelect and they shipped the seals to me with free overnight delivery.

I had no trouble disassembling the wash manifold and spray parts using the instructions provided with the replacement motor and the instructions from the Maytag repair manual that I found online. The motor is removed from the inside of the tub.... very nice. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from under the counter in order to get at the motor.

I made a mental note of the orientation of the faulty motor before I removed it. I installed the replacement motor with the same orientation along with the wash parts. The dishwasher worked successfully.

Thank you PartSelect.
Parts Used:
Motor
  • George from Poughkeepsie, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
39 of 50 people found this instruction helpful.
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Broken handle/latch Dishwasher was very difficult to open.
The first thing I did was read the all of repair stories that others had submitted. Then I set the timer and chucked up the Torx bit in my electric drill/screwdriver. There are 10 Torx screws on the inside of the dishwasher door and they came out very quickly. The top two screws hold the latch in place. I lifted the inside stainless steel cover to get acces to the latch. There was enough slack in the wire that I was able to remove the latch from where it was and extend it above the door. This let me lay the stainless steel liner back onto the inside of the door without removing or disconnecting the soap dispenser. Thus exposed, disconnecting the connectors from the old latch and reconnecting them to the microswitches on the new latch was a breeze. Once connected, I reinstalled the latch assembly, repositioned the liner correctly and replaced the ten screws. The entire job, including putting my tools away and cleaning up took eight minutes. I did it on my lunch break. The eight minutes included pulling the circuit breaker and reconnecting it (very important, that step). The new latch/handle assembly completely fixed the problem.
Parts Used:
Door Latch with Switches - NO Handle
  • George from Andover, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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Door would not close because latch was not working
I turned off the electricity at the circuit breaker. Sitting in a chair in front of the opened dishwasher with the partially opened door resting on my knees, I removed the 10 screws lining the inside of the door (setting them in order on the cabinet above -- 2 are different length so this helps keep them in order.
I tilted the inner cover on the door up (which is what the screws had been holding). With the door not fully open because it was on my knees, I was able to position the cover so that I did not have to remove the connection to the soap dispenser.
The two middle screws removed earlier were the screws that held the latch in place, so the assembly was already loose at this point. I put a black mark on the assembly to mark the side that the black wires were attached. Then with the pliers removed the plugs that were connected to the switches on either side of the assembly. Then marked the replacement assembly with the black mark on the same side as the one removed. I attached the plugs to the the replacement assembly using the black mark as reminder for which side was which.
I lined up the latch on the door where it goes, lowered the lid (lifting the lower edge over the base a little), lined up and started the latch screws (middle 2), then started all of the other screws and then tightened them all. Closed the lid and tested the latch. It was closing correctly now. I turned on the electricity and tested to make sure all was now working properly.
Parts Used:
Door Latch with Switches - NO Handle
  • Michael P from Greenville, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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