Models > D146 Maytag > Instructions

D146 Jenn-Air Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for D146 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the D146
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Replace Grease Filter

  • Customer: Gene from Washington C.H. OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 464 of 465 people found this instruction helpful
Just a couple of minutes to left off the cover grid, left out the old filter and drop in the new one.

Needed to replace filter

  • Customer: Marie from New Smyrna Bch FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 91 of 153 people found this instruction helpful
Just placed it at the filter location. Liked the ring feature on the filter for ease of removal for cleaning. My previous ones didn't have such feature. Thank you for filling my order. I bought an extra filter for the future. I'm a big user of my Jenn-Air range. I may soon be needing to replace my griddle. Will be contacting your company then.

Burner had one temperature--hot, regardless of setting

  • Customer: James H from Oxford NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 49 of 54 people found this instruction helpful
1. Killed power and removed the regulator's knob, noted the position of the old control.
2. Took off the cover for the center vent and loosened the two screw holding the housing in place--the screws didn't have to come out completely as it is a U-shaped friction hold.
3. Unscrewed the two screws holding the old control switch in place--lifted the housing enough to get at the old switch and carefully pulled it loose--it was a front burner so the control switch was about as far back as it could be but still wasn't that hard to get at.
4. Turned the new switch to orient the wire connectors, then, using a needle-nose pliers, removed each friction connector, one at a time, and fitted them on the new switch (note: one of the wires fitted best if it went under as opposed to around the base of the new switch).
5. Replaced the control back through the housing and screwed it in place, making sure the orientation of the control matched the way it looked originally.
6. Slide the housing back over the two screws and tightened, replace vent.
7. Replaced the knob and turned on the power.

(The above took me about twice as long to write as it did to make the repair and I write professionally but am not a professional electrician.)

Also, I bought a second control switch because, given the age of the unit, I'm sure another one will go. The second one will assure that it won't happen :-).

The oven door seal was ripped and was leaking.

  • Customer: Paul from Mickleton NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 40 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
The oven seal replacement was very straight forward. Two screws held the door to the arms coming from the oven. I slid the door up off the arm and moved it to a workbench. This whole process should take about 15 minutes, a little longer if your unit is older and you want to clean as you go. Mine was fairly dirty and I gave it a cleaning as I removed parts. Unscrew all screws on the outer frame of the door, including two small ones on the side. Remove the outer frame and then the glass front and set them aside. A few more screws to remove the glass from the inner door, and even more on the remaining part of the door. You should also remove the screws holding the tiny brackets as well to release the portion that holds the oven seal in place. This is very straightforward, just keep pulling screws out until you can remove the old seal.

Once the old seal is out, insert the new one using the wire embedded in the seal as your guide...the gap in the seal goes to the bottom. Put everything back together and re-install the door. My door hinges were spring loaded and took a little effort to move them down so the door can be slipped on. This is a two person job since the hinges do not lock in place, they spring right back up flush with the oven and you cannot install the door. Re-install the two set screws holding the door to the hinges and you are done!

With the new seal in place, it felt a little puffy and the door did not seem to close as flush as it used to. This makes sense since the seal is new. I kept the door locked (like you would to use the oven cleaning cycle). I even kept it partially locked during cooking.

Frankly, the hardest part was the cleanup of nasty grease and dirt that built up over the past decade or so.

Best of luck!

Old grease filter was bent and needed replacing

  • Customer: Linda from Palo Alto CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 65 of 126 people found this instruction helpful
I simply lifted off the grille in the center of the stove, pulled out the old filter and dropped the new one in. It sits at an angle (right side down, left side up) rather than slotting in to a particular spot.

Burner Control not Functioning

  • Customer: Randall from Mohnton PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 18 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Simple Repair!
Turn off Power
Remove four screws under panel.
Remove old burner knob.
Drop Burner Panel from range
Remove 5 wire connectors from old burner control
with pliers
Remove 2 screws that held burner control to range
panel
Install new burner control
Rplace two screws to burner control
Replace 5 wire connectors to new burner control
Replace 4 screw under panel
Replace knob to new burner control
Turn on electricity
Made wife happy!

Seal rap around oven door window was separating from its frame.

  • Customer: Lester from Torrance CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
The frame and window were supplied as a completed assembly. About 4 other panels had to be removed prior to installing the new window assembly. This was easy to do with a screwdriver removing about 16 screws and then replacing all panels back in place after replacing the new window assembly. No instructions were supplied with the part, but anyone with a little mechanical abillity could do it. You may need a helper to hold panels in place while they were being screwed back in place. Total job took about one hour

Dual element burner only stays on high

  • Customer: Sherman from Perry GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
The replacement switch was not exactly as my original and none of the other instructions matched exactly with my unit. So I had to figure it out, but they matched mostly what Micheal from Colliervile wrote. Safety is paramount. Turn off circuit breaker and ensure there is no power to unit with a test light. You don't have to remove the glass top. Open oven door and remove 4 screws at bottom of control panel, then remove two screws on each end while suppoting the panel with one hand. Rest control panel on top of door or hang by wires. Remove two screws to detach switch from panel. I took pictures of the wire placement on old switch and drew a diagram of what color wire went to each terminal. I used the instruction sheet diagram of new switch and marked where each wire color goes. Here is where I put them: DOUBLE BLACK to L1,2; New jumper from P1 to S1; RED to 2: DOUBLE RED to P2; new jumper with small connector from S2 to "element on" indicator lamp (it's longer than and replaces existing jumper); YELLOW to 4a; TAN to 4. The letters in parenthesis on the instruction sheet almost matched up to my old switch so I used them to help with the placement. I didn't have to seperate any compound red wires. Double check wire placement and put it all back together in reverse order.

Infinite switch malfuctioning and indicator light not working.

  • Customer: Rodney from Thibodaux LA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I changed out the infinite switch without any problems. The indicator light was another problem. It wasn't the light that was bad, it was the indicator light lens that snaps into the panel. The light then attaches to the lense. The lense broke and the indicator light pulled away with the tension on the wires. Now I have to order replacement lens and will have a spare indicator light.

My oven would broil but not bake.

  • Customer: M Lynette from Pawling NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First, I made sure the circuit breaker was off to the oven. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place , pulled the element out a few inches and eased the wires apart at the metal connectors. I eased in the new wires, put the two screws back in, and voila. In under five minutes, the oven was fixed.

Lightening blew out the digital clock works and therefore we couldn't use the self clean oven.

  • Customer: Peter from Savannah GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
turned off electricity at the circuit breaker.Pulled stove out and looked at the way the control center was attached to the rest of the stove. Removed the knobs and 4 screws and the complete panel could be removed (or pulled out from the oven-wires are still all attached). Then checked with an electric meter to insure the power was off to all the wires. The clock is a self contained unit and all I had to do was to remove 4 screws holding a face plate, replace the unit and reverse the procedure. Only problem I had was getting the screws back into the face plate (I was only able to get 2 threaded-but that will hold for the life of the stove) and put it alll back together. It works wonderfully.

I had a repair company on the phone who said that the service call would be $185 and if I was right about the clock being the problem, that would cost another $345 for the clock and $85 for the return service call to install. I ordered the part from PartSelect .com on Sunday, had it by Thursday and installed that night. My cost was $195 vs approx $600. Why would you do anything else?

Blower motor failed

  • Customer: John from Brazil IN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed fan housing from under stove and replaced motor. Biggest job was cleaning the fan housing as a lot of kitchen grease had accmulated of the life of the stove.

replce oven seal

  • Customer: Eli from Richboro PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
take door off. remove screws holding door together, take door apart. remove worn seal. install new seal. reposition insulation and door window at the appropriate location. begin re-assembling door in reverse order making sure that apprpriate pressure is applied to keep the seal in place. re-attach door to hinges. project worked out well. new seal looks great. would have been a costly repair if I called a professional. I'm handy, but things like this are often hard the first time. you have to take your time and be cognizant of putting it back together the way you took it apart.

We had no control of tempurature on one of the four burners on the electric range cook top

  • Customer: Robert from Marietta GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First step is turn the power to the range off. Then I removed the grate covering the down draft vent in the center of the cook top. Inside the vent opening are two screws that secure a panel that holds the four knobs that control temperature settings. Remove these screws. Slide the panel tward the back of the range while lifting it up. This will allow removal of the panel. Remove the knob from the burner control you are replacing. Under the knob are two screws. Remove the screws and let the controller drop out of the cover panel. Take the new switch and carefully remove the wires from the old controller and place them on the new controller in the same position. When the wires have been connected, put the controller back in the control panes and secure it with the two screws. Replace the panel back into the cook top. Tilt the control panel so the front is low and the back is elevted. Engage the lugs protuding out on each side of the control panel opening. Lower the panel back into the opening and secure it with the two remaining screws. Replace the control knob and you are done. You just saved yourself a $125.00 service call. Total cost for the controller $35.00.

clock not working--blank

  • Customer: JEFF from ORIENTAL NC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
removed 4 screws holding entire face plate. Rolled face plate up on top of stove and left all wires attached (many). removed 4 screws adjacent to clock assy. Removed control knob just on either side of clock assy and removed control screws (2 on each). removed wires attached to clock assy and transferred new assy. Re-assembled and set clock time.
All Instructions for the D146
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