CYE2000AZW Magic Chef Dryer - Instructions

Took less than five minutes to fix a couple screws and take some wires off and pull it right out. Called local apliance store if they had part wanted more than partselect with next day shipping

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Replacing the lint filter was, of course, the easy part. The rest of the time was spent removing the front of the dryer and cleaning out all the lint that had escaped through the old broken filter. I completely took apart the lint traps inside the front, vacuumed everything out, and replaced the ductwork to the outside that was almost completely blocked with lint. Please take the time to inspect your dryer, and do this if necessary! I feel we prevented a house fire by getting to this in time - and I will be more vigilant in the future.

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

took out the old, put in the new

Raised upper portion of dryer using putty knife on clips just above dryer door. removed 2 screws on inside corner above dryer door, then completely removed the front panel. Lifter out dryer barrel to expose the inner workings. Removed the 2 rollers at back of unit...(be sure to apply some med. weight grease on roller shafts... I used axle grease). Also, had to replace the blower wheel, original was broken in half. With 1/4" nut driver(if I remember correctly) remove the 6-7 screws holding the front cover on the fan blower assy. Using pliers remove the spring clip on front of blower wheel shaft. Upon installing new blower fan you might have to align the new wheel on shaft with the flat keyway then using a 1/2" socket hold it on the front of the blower wheel and lightly tap the wheel in place till seated at the back of the shaft. I use to assume that the majority of the noise I was hearing was coming from the busted dryer. I did have underlying suspicions that there was another source of noise from within my domicile. Once the dryer was re-assembled and 'purring' just like new my suspicions were confirmed. I was able to verify that the source of the 'other' noise was from my wife. I miss my old dryer!

I opened the lid and using the Nut driver removed the old High limit Thermostat.Then repalces the new one, replaced the lid and plugged in the dryer.It still did not start.I then found the fuse hiddden on the side of the heater element, testd the fuse on it was blown. I placed an order for the fuse.

I basically followed the instructions in the video provided. They were very clear and detailed. I love this website. This is the second repair on this dryer using PartSelect.com Runs like new and I saved a lot on labor costs.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

by hand

I first had gone to the repair which told me there were only f few parts that could cause the loss of power including to the dryer light. They also showed how to test the units with an ohm meter. I then visited this site which also had how to videos for the actual removal and installation of the parts. I would like to have seen a step by step procedure for determining and testing to identify the defective part along with the video for replacement on this site. However, I did find this site most helpful and placed on order the part I needed. It arrived the very next day. And it took very little time to install. I had already removed the defective units. The dryer is again functioning . The actual cause of the failure od the defective unit was due to overheating because of a large amount of lent blocking the air glow at the blower unit. We clean the lent trap with every use. However this is not good enough. I think that the front panel needs to be opened at least yearly to properly clean the area in front of the blower unit. Hope this helps any of you other DYI people out there.

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

Diagnosed the problem as a blown thermal fuse. Ordered High Limit Kit. Watched a YouTube video on how to replace the fuse. A little trouble with dropping a metal bracket -3- times to the bottom of the dryer. A little inginuity solved that problem. Replaced the high limit fuse, and thermal fuse. Cleaned duckwork thouroughly. Was very clogged with lint, which probably caused the overheat problem in the first place.Put everything back together, dryer fired right up!

I watched your video and it was exactly like you guys said. You truly have a great site and I will tell all my friends about it. Great service, can't say enough about how pleased I am with your site and service. Saved me a lot of money.

TURN OFF POWER TO DRYER............................. Pay attention to where everything is as you take it apart, so it can be put back the same way. Take out the two screws by the lint screen. Use flat tip screwdriver between space in front of top to help lift top. Use rag on tip of screwdriver so as not to scratch it. Take out two screws inside the front panel at the top. One on each side. Unhook the switch wiring. Lift up the front panel to take off. The tub will be loose, so it can be taken out to inspect other components. Some call the tub a drum. Be sure to see how the belt tensioner is attached, so it can be put back on the same way, if it comes loose. It is under the tub. Take out old belt. Put new belt around tub. Make sure the tub sets on the two rollers in the back of dryer. While holding tub, put the belt around the grooved pulley on the motor. Grooves are face down against the tub. Feed belt through the tensioner. Put the bottom of front in on the tabs. Be sure belt is still in place around pulley and tensioner etc. Hold tub through front door and close front. Put the two screws back in on each side. Close top and put the two screws in at the lint screen. Done. Turn power back on. Turn on dryer to see if it operates properly. If not, check out your repair to see if everything is connected properly.