This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.73
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This broil igniter assembly comes with its own metallic mounting bracket and a 7-inch-long dual wire lead with a plastic plug. This part will need to be repaired if your oven element is giving off no ...
$93.48
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This is cookware designed for use in your range or oven. It is a two-piece dish that is used to grill or cook food while the broil function is on, meaning it can withstand high temperatures. This set ...
$37.51
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This oven rack is sold individually. The functionality of the oven rack is to provide a reliable cooking surface for cookware inside your oven. This specific oven rack is roughly eighteen inches wide ...
This oven door seal creates a protective seal around an oven door to prevent heat from running out of a closed oven and keeps room air from entering the oven. This part is 17.5 inches long and made o...
$71.04
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This oven door seal is fifteen and a half inches long. It is made of rubber and has a metal hook on either end to hold it in place. This seal sits on top of the glass window pane.
This is an OEM part sourced directly from the manufacturer. This snap nut is round, and is made of black plastic. It is approximately half an inch in diameter. This snap nut should snap into place, ra...
$7.11
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Use this bottle of stainless steel cleaner and polish for any of your stainless steel appliances.
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Questions And Answers for CWG3100AAS13
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Andrew
August 27, 2021
Electric pilot is working. Oven Flame does not ignite and after a minute or so you begin to smell gas at upper vents. Seems as if the burner is not getting any gas.
For model number CWG3100AAS13
Hello Andrew, Thank you for the question. This could indicate the Igniter is too weak to ignite the Gas. The Igniter should be reading between 0 - 1100 ohms to be working correctly. We hope this helps!
My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.
Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My
... Read more lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.
Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.
I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.
Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.
Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.
I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this o
... Read morene. $40.00 beats $700.00
First I pulled out the oven from the cabinet. Disconected the power, I removed the cover from the back, disconected the wires from the igniter. Removed the igniter from inside the oven. Reversed the process to install the igniter. Turned on the oven, it worked. Sat down and had a beer.