CWG3100AAS Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

My oven has two igniters so I needed to determine which one was the problem.

Using the amp/multi meter I tested the connection between the igniters and the valve, with the oven turned on, to find the bad igniter. Depending on the model of stove you have, the amp reading you need for a properly functioning igniter will vary. My lower igniter read 2.7 amps with a rated amp between 3.3 and 3.6. So that was the culprit.

Replacing the igniter was easy. Two screws and a wire connected with a plug. I was able to do the diagnosis and unplug the wire without pulling the oven out. I pulled the drawer out and removed the two screws in a cover behind where the drawer was. You may not be so lucky…I have long arms.

I found removing the oven door made it easier to reach the igniter itself. To remove the door just open it slightly and pull up, it should come off easy…and replace in opposite manner.

Keep track of your screws and put it back together the way you found it except for the igniter that is.

Anyone with moderate technical skill could easily do this repair. The diagnosis is the hard part. I estimate I saved about $200 doing it myself.

Good luck.

Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.

Replacing the oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.

I removed the oven door, unscrewed a couple of screws, replaced the ignitor, put screws back in, done! Sometimes it would take my oven up to an hour to heat up and sometimes it just wouldn't heat up, just fill the house with a gas smell. Now, it heats up in about 3 minutes!! We were considering buying a new oven, we will just keep this one. $40.00 beats $700.00

First I pulled out the oven from the cabinet. Disconected the power, I removed the cover from the back, disconected the wires from the igniter. Removed the igniter from inside the oven. Reversed the process to install the igniter. Turned on the oven, it worked. Sat down and had a beer.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Replaced the element and attached the wires. Making sure I pushed the wires back through the hole far enough so the wires wouldn't touch the back of the stove. I then replaced the sensor by removing the two screws and pulling the wire through the hole so I could disconnect them. I reconnected the new sensor and made sure I pushed the wires back through the hole far enough away from the back of the stove. Replaced the screws and was all set to start the stove. I started the stove and it took about 10 min. to reach the set temperture. The stove worked great.

First I removed the oven grates and then the metal plate that covers the burner and igniter.Then I removed the two screws that hold in the igniter,be careful because the threads on the sheet metal screw strip off easily due to the heat. Then I slid out the storage drawer on the bottom of the stove.Next I removed two screws that hold on a cover in front of the gas valve where the igniter is plugged in.I unplugged the old igniter, removed it then replaced it with the new one.I then reassembled everything in the reverse order.I did have to use a nut and bolt to replace the damaged sheet metal screw.

First I removed two screws that hold the oven sensor in place. I then removed the screws that held the panel on the back of the oven. I simply unclipped the plastic adaptor and replaced the old sensor with the new one. I screwed the sensor back in and put the back panel on. turned the power back on to the oven and hit the bake button. Voila!! The oven turned on and now it works like new!!!

First I removed the oven door for easier access then, removed the oven grates and bottom pan. Then there is a wing nut that holds the heat deflector in place over the manifold thats needs to be removed. Now you can see the igniter, remove the 2 small hex head screws and disconnect electrical connection.
Simply reverse the sequence to reinstall.
This may sound like alot to do but it only took 15 minutes to complete and I'm not an appliance repair person. Anyone who is somewhat of a handyman can accomplish this job.

Remove racks and pull out stove from wall. Remove back cover from stove. Unscrew and unplug sensor. Rethread new sensor wire through hole and plug in new sensor and rescrew plate that holds in place.

We had complications because of how the stove was installed, which delayed the "fix" time considerably.

Also installed ignitor. It was determined that both were bad. Gas would come on but not light. When oven would light, it would not re-light periodically to keep the temperature up, causing gas smell. This added time to repair of an additional 1 hour, and required removal of bottom drawer.

Turned gas and electricity off first. Pulled out the bottom pan so I could access the igniter. Removed two screws holding the igniter next to the burner tube, unplugged the igniter from the back of the stove and then pulled the plug threw into the oven. Mounted new igniter and then pulled the plug threw and plugged it back in. Reinstalled bottom pan and I was done in 15 - 20 minutes. VERY EASY TO DO...

My oven stopped working and the display read F3 error. I looked up the code and found that it was probably the thermostat sensor. I ordered the part from partselect.com and when it arrived I went to install it but I ran into a somewhat scary issue. I found that I had to pull my oven out of the wall in order to replace the sensor.

After a minor nervous breakdown, I decided to go for it and found that it was much easier than I had imagined. Changing the sensor involves taking out the two screws that hold the sensor in place (inside of the oven), pulling it out to the point you can reach the connector, plugging in the new sensor and screwing it back in place. However, if you have an oven like my model, you have to pull out the whole oven from the wall in order to reach the plug on the sensor. This sounds like a lot of trouble but for me it was very easy. The oven is held in place with screws around the front side. Most are easily accessed and you don't have to take out any critical/complicated pieces of the oven. My screw gun made short issue of the problem and I found that the oven was out of the wall within minutes. I could then easily unscrew a small back cover, change the sensor and then screw the oven back into the wall. Being very careful, the whole operation took about 20 minutes. I recommend that you get help from a friend just because the oven is bulky. It is not heavy, an average sized male can handle the weight but it’s easier with a friend. Also, be careful that the gas hose which feeds the oven is long enough (and not tangled) for you to move the oven out of its space. Obviously, be careful about gas leaks.

Step1: Remove oven door. Open oven door about 3-4 inches and pull up with 2 hands.

Step2: Turn oven light ON so you can see.

Step3: Remove bottom tray by pulling on the 2 rear clips and lift tray up and out of the oven.

Step4: Using a nut driver remove the 2 nuts holding the ignitor in place. If nuts are rusted from heat spray a tiny bit of WD-40 on them and totally wipe off any excess when finished removing the nuts.

Step5:Pull wire from old ignitor through the insulation and unplug it from its connection.

Step6: Plug in new ignitor and push it back through the insulation and fasten it back in position with the 2 nuts.

Step7: Re-install bottom tray and door and CONGRATULATIONS cause you just saved yourself about $150! by DIY And you never again will be eating semi-raw chicken or better yet, take the money you just saved and treat yourself and your family to a sushi dinner.

I would like to thank Partselect.com for their quick delivery and very reasonable price on the Ignitor I purchased.

Regards.

Pulled the oven away from wall to access rear of oven. Disconnect electric plug from duplex outlet, turn off gas supply ball valve. Removed two screws that retain sensor on inside of oven. Disconnected two prong sensor connector at rear of oven. Tied a length of string to sensor connector wires. Pulled old sensor out through front of oven. Use the string to tie onto new sensor connector wires and pull new sensor into place from rear of oven. Retain sensor with two screws. At back of oven, used connector jumper supplied with part package to make connection to existing connector.

I realized where the ignitor was and I turned off the circuit breaker took the v plate off with a little tie nut unscrewed the 2 small nuts and small plate to hold wires in and pulled the pig tail wire out and unplugged it and then took new one and installed it in reverse order done in 7 minutes thanks michael

The bottom burner would not stay lit. I determined that it was as a result of the ignitor's voltage droping. The thing still glowed red but apparently the voltage drops and closes the gas valve. So, I switched the broiler one with the bottom one to see if it would work. It did. Then I bought the new ignitor and put it in where I had taken the broiler ignitor out. You have to take care to put the insulation back and shove the connector well into the hole so that there is no possibllity of it melting. I also replaced the oven top. I had bought that part a couple of years ago because I had dropped some things on it and it was chipped. When I got the top I thought it would be somewhat intuitive as to how to replace it. But, it wasn't. So,it stayed in its box. When I had the other problem I decided to tackle the top too. First turn off the gas and unplug the oven. You have to pry the top off with a screw driver. Then, you disconnect wires which run to the ignitor for each burner. You also have to disconnect the gas lines running to each dial. Now, you take the top off. To get the burners off the top you have to take a pair of channel locks and open them wide, wrap a rag around the burner and turn them like screws. Under the top there is an assembly that holds the gas lines in place. that has to be removed from under each buner. These assemblies are not interchangeable!!! One is left and the other is right. You then reverse everything. Put the burners in by screwing them down. Its hard but if you put a rag over them you can strike them with a rubber mallet. Screw the gas line assemblies into the bottom of the top. Then hook up the wires and then the gas lines. Then, you pop the top back in. There are those pressure clamps that hold the top down. I made a mistake with the gas line assemblies and switched them. So, when I tested the repair I realized I had the front dial controlling the rear burners and vice versa. Some day I take it all apart and fix it again!