CWE9030BCB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

I installed the new oven sensor but the problem continued. So I ordered a new relay board and installed it. Still no luck. So I pulled the new board back out and started trouble shooting it using my electronic background. I discovered the new board was using a pin for L2 that had no exit on the backplane, so I removed it and installed it where I believed it should go. Reinstalled the power relay board and presto. My oven is working lie a champ. Louis

After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!

Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.

Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.

Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.

A web search led me to Parts Select. Two days later my bake element was installed and my oven was again in bake mode.I'm a 75 yr. old grandmother and installed it myself so that should tell one how easy it is.

Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.

Before beginning I made sure electrical current wasn't running to the element. (NOTE: CHECKING FOR A VOLTAGE DROP ACROSS THE ELEMENT IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH). The safest way to do this is to unplug the oven, because otherwise you're going to get a nasty surprise as soon as you touch the exposed wire.

I removed the two screws that anchor the element to the back of the oven. Then I pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected each of the wires attached to the element. These were easy to disconnect because they were quick-disconnect spade type connectors.

Next I got rid of the old element and tried to replace it with the new one, only to notice that the new element and the wires in the rear of the oven both had the female end of the spade connector. Like a total bimbo I'd either ordered the wrong part or just failed to notice what the connectors were supposed to be.

Instead of de-soldering the spade connectors on the element or the oven wires, I made two "spade adaptors" to make the connections compatible. For this I bought a package of spade connectors from Radio Shack and cut two pieces of 16 gauge rebare wire about 1/2" long. I soldered a male spade connector to the end of each rebar piece and then insulated it thoroughly with electrical tape to keep it from grounding out. (NOTE: DO NOT USE DUCT TAPE FOR THIS, ONLY INSULATING ELECTRICAL TAPE WILL DO). The result was two miniature pieces of wire, each with a male spade connector on the end. For lack of a better name, these were my spade adaptors.

When the two spade adaptors were ready, I connected them to the female ends of the wires in the oven, then to the female spade connectors on the new element. I wrapped all the connections in electrical tape to prevent accidental grounding. (NOTE: ELECTRICAL TAPE MELTS SO I KEPT IT FAR AWAY FROM THE ELEMENT.)

Finally I shoved the wires, my spade adaptors, and the ends of the element back into the holes at the rear of the oven and screwed the element back into place using the original screws. After that I turned the oven back on.

Most of the time was spent making the run to Radio Shack and trying to explain to the guy at the front desk what a quick disconnect spade connector is.

Easy in and out, just two screws and two wires. Only additional work was that my oven had female spades on the wires and so did the new element. Took a couple of extra minutes to change out the spades on the oven connections. Then it was slide the connectors together, re-attach the two holding screws and the oven was fully functional.

First replacement element came in bent, Parts Select shipped and replaced it immediately!

Very easy to repair, but you have to be able to pull your stove out. Two screws in the oven and then remove part of back cover of oven and one plug from there. Simple to do, but did not fix our problem. We are waiting repair now from service company as it looks like it needs a control panel. Worth trying yourself to fix the problem. Inexpensive part and easy to install. Also be sure to turn power off your oven to reset the control panel as this may fix the problem - try this first and also after installing new part - like rebooting a computer...

easily pulled old seal out and push new seal in place simple and quick.

Once I saw the spring clips on the new door seal, it was easy to understadn how to remove the old seal and install the new one. Looks nice !

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

Removed screws on each end of element, pulled off spade connectors, did everything in reverse for new element.

The only notable fact was that the old element was hot, as in carrying AC current, despite the stove being off and it being broken, and I found out the usual way.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.