CWE9030BCB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed frame to cabinet lag screws
Slid oven out of cabinet (required because wire harness could not be pulled through inside of oven)
Removed two screws holding attaching sensor inside oven
Uncoupled wire harness
Installed new sensor in reverse order

Unfortunately, neither the new bake element or sensor fixed the problem, so I just ordered the more expensive control board -- hope that does it.

First of all called my local appliance stores and was told that no one had parts because the range was too old. My husband was adamant that we needed a new stove. After much searching found a part on your site. The repair was soo easy a mere woman can do it. Required a screw driver and patiently taking the door apart. Could have been done faster if I had not cleaned everything back to new condition. Easy repair. . . Awesome service from your company!

I ordered the only part that looked like it would fit. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. But the new replacement had the wrong ends to fit right. I was going to email you back to see if there were other options for me, when a friend came by and said he would just replace the oven connecting ends and then it would work. Luckily he had extra little ends at home, came over and replaced the ends, cutting the old ones off of the oven side. He wire stripped the wire, attached the new ends and crimped and then reattatched the whole heating element. Without his know-how, I would have had to have a repair man come and do the same thing for me, or go buy a new stove.....but it is simple when you know how!! It would have been helpful to me, to have the description of the ends of the new element I was buying..... whether it was male or female... but it is fixed now, thanks to my friend. A steak dinner was cheaper than a repair man!!!!

First I remove th screw that held the element in place then I pulled the element out and disconnect the wires. Then I replace the new element, I connected the wires back then I put the screws to hold the element.

I followed the instructions that were posted on the web site for the replacement of the element. I found everything exactly as described in the procedure. I disconnected the two screws that held the old element, removed the old element, inserted the new element and replaced the screws. I turned the oven control on and the element heated up. Everything has been working just fine.

Took four screws out, pulled old one out and disconnected two wires and waited for new part to be delivered. installed part in one minute. I had the same thing happen 5 years ago and the repair person charged me $150. This time it cost me $40 .

This was a very easy repair and the website helped greatly. my husband simply pulled old element out and pluged the new one in. Excellent website, saved us a lot of money.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. That is when I notice that the new element had a female connector and so did my wires comeing out of the stove. I took the old elements male end off (with a grinder). The mail end was long enough to use it connect both female end.

Installed new thermostat. Went well. Now the oven comes on and it takes 2.5 hours to come up to 250 degrees. Help!

Turned off power at breaker box. Removed two screws from the old bake element on rear of oven wall. Pulled out bake element from back of oven so wires were exposed (about 3-4 inches). By hand, removed the wire connector from each side of the element (wiggle it loose).

The part I purchased was exactly as described on the PartSelect website (i.e., it had the correct connections - female - on the bake element). The part arrived in 2 days in perfect condition. I definitely will use PartSelect again.

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

Repair was super easy, Remove Screws. (the hardest part was trying to remove the edging of the door without cracking it, or breaking the tabs used to secure it) Once I got the edges off, I slid the front of the door off, removed the screws and braces holding the outer glass. Picked out the broken pieces, cleaned all the glass and inside the door and put it all back together. If I didn't clean everything, it would've taken half the time.

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

There are five Phillips head screws to remove from the door (2 top, 3 bottom); the only touch part is that there are no screws on the sides, but instead plastic tabs on each side that "latch" inside the door frame; you have to use a flat blade screwdriver to work each tab and press on the door frame to unlatch each tab (yup I broke one, not knowing the setup the first time, but it went back together OK anyway). Once the tabs are unlatched from the frame, the entire front or the door will come off (be ready for this); then, just a few screws to take off the 2nd inner door glass frame (remove second glass carefully), and your to the inner glass, which just fits within the frame. Then, carefully backwards and the door is together again (once again, provide support as you take the last tab/screw off the outside of the front door, or you'll have more broken parts).

Removed two screws holding oven sensor in place. Haad to remove part of the back to access wires. Found existing wires had burnt up, and had to reterminate same. Installed new sensor, making sure the leads did not come in contact with the rear of oven compartment. (This may have been what caused failure to begin with)