CWE7830ACB Maytag Wall Oven - Instructions

Replaced oven gasket and both oven hinges. Repairs did not work. Oven door is actually worst. Do not waste your time replacing the oven hinges unless they are actually broken. When to Ace hardware and bought a package of 3 super magnets for about $10. Practice placing the magnets on metal strip on outside of the actual oven vs the oven door. This metal strip is not galvanized for which the oven cleaning latch goes through. Appeared to solve the problem. I then used epoxy glue to insure the super magnets would permanently stay in place. These are dangerous magnets that must be kept away from children and pets. You will spend more time separating these magnets from each other than gluing them in place. This part I will let you figure out but the only way to separate the 3 magnets from each other is the slide them, one at a time, from each other. Now I am awaiting 4 to 6 hours for the epoxy to cure. Best of luck. Jeff

Followed provided video

Easy peasy.....Turn off the power in the breaker box to the oven. Take the racks out of the oven,remove the two screws in the very back and pull the element out a few inches(don't be afraid, you may have to use a little force). Pull the clips off of the element and remove it. Replace with the new element and reverse the proceedure. I love knowing I found a websight that had what i needed, was easy to navigate, and offered instructions with the part. NICE!

I removed the old sensor via the two screws holding it in, unplugged it and replaced it with a new one.

New part delivery was prompt, arrived within 24 hours and was well-packaged. Removal of old element was complicated by one of the two original wires being caught up in the housing behind the oven. After removing the circular metal plate in the back of the oven the offending wire could be accessed and rerouted. Plugging in and installing the new bake element was quite easy and without complications.

Removed 2 screws holding the lower element (hard but they actually came out after 12 years) and pulled the wires out to expose the wire connections. I didn't turn off the breaker since the oven was off. BIG MISTAKE. One of the connectors touched the oven case and blew off the end of the element. No problem luckily. After turning off the breaker all was OK and easy. Connected the wires to the new element and put back screws. Screws are not tightening up all the way but they won't pull out with moderate pressure so I'm calling it finished. If I get energetic I might try slightly larger screws sometime. Took less time than writing this.

The hardest part was deciding if this part would fix the problem. The upper oven became unusable. Both elements worked fine until reaching temperature. The oven would not come back on after that. I took two screws out. Then I pulled the wires out and unsnapped the coupling. The install was reverse. I just snapped the coupling in place and replaced the two screws. All works fine now. Saved a couple thousand as wife was prepared to buy a new one.

Opened oven door. Inserted a small bent nail into the small holes on the hinge. This locks the hinge from closing all the way. Removed the chrome hinge retaining plates. One at each hinge. Lifted the door off the oven. Laid door on towel. Removed 3 screws from the top of door, three screws from the bottom of door. This allows you to separate the two pieces of the door. Clean all glass surfaces, including the ones under the middle glass panel. Removed 1 screw from each hinge at bottom of door. Pull hinge from bottom of door after removing screws. Insert new spring at top of door first, replace retaining screw. Realign the two door parts and replace all screws. Set door back on hinge pocket. Be careful to insure that the hinge seats into the pocket. Open door just enough to replace retaining plates. Process was easy, but it did not fix the problem completely. Bought heavy magnets from hardware store and installed them inside the door. This with the new hinge fixed the problem.

Loosen two screws to remove door. Removed outside trim and other outside screws hold center panel in place. Removed one screw holding hinge in place. Screwed new hinge in place. Re-attached center panel to outside trim and hung door. Easy enough.

Compressed the springs and removed the damaged switch, then changed the wiring over to the new switch and press into place, worked fine.

Very simple, hooked up with two screws...so easy, and ordering was so easy and came in two days!,,

Turned off breaker,opened door with bent coat hanger by sliding right to left the coat hanger to open the door, remover 2 screws holding in the sensor in upper left corner of the oven. Remove the sensor (gently) with the wire connection from back of oven pulling sensor out a out 8 inches . Disconnect plug. Install new sensor with matched harness /.connection, installed 2 screws ,turned on breaker.

I replaced the oven sensor which was easy to replace. A pigtail wire was provided with the sensor which is intended to be installed first so you don't have to reach around the front and back of the oven at the same time. The replacement was easy. However, that turned out not to be the problem. The real problem was the maytag electronic clock control timer, temperature control unit. The part number is 7601P177-60. This device has been discontinued and I was fortunate enough to find the part at a local supplier. Once I replaced this, the problem went away. The oven heats up normally. My original symptom was that when setting the oven temperature to something like 350 degrees, the display would rapidly report heating up the oven to that temperature, and the oven was only mildly warm. If you have that symptom, it is probably not the oven sensor. It is the electronic clock unit. Hope you can find one. If you can't, I think you need to by a new oven. Regards

Remove sensor from oven. Disconnected wire from back. Connected new sensor and reinstalled. Temps now stay stable.

Watched the video and it was as easy as described. Not many things go as easily as this.