CVG4280W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

1st I found the 2 screws that held the control panel in place. Then the switch slid out of it's pocket, 3 wires pulled, and the new one replaced. The best part of this repair is finding this site. Other sites did not have adequate pictures of the switch. On this site I was able to recognize and double check (by bringing the switch to my monitor) before I bought. I bookmarked this site! Thanks!
[PS. I revised my story, but would give you guys more like 4-5 stars! ]

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

Since the other three burners sparked, I traced the problem to the switch on the valve shaft. To replace, (after unplugging the power cord) I pulled off the knobs, removed the two screws on the valve cover (inside the downdraft vent) and pulled the switch up the shaft to remove. I transferred the spade terminals to the replacement switch, oriented and installed.

The only fan switch available for Jenn-Air was electrically compatible (amps, high/low control) with my 15 year old unit, but the existing mounting plate needed to be modified. The original switch was an undermount and the replacement switch snapped in from the top. This modification required a 1/2" drill bit and a file to square off the edges. Since the plate was cast from soft aluminum, it was fairly easy. Also, one of the spade connections needed to be changed (part supplied). It now looks good and works fine.

None of the surface burners (two Uni-burners) would light without using a match. I first ordered two replacement PS2089818 top burner spark electrodes. I replace one which was very easy - the electrode just clips into the burner - and I traced the wires down to the back bottom of the stove where I found they plugged into an ignition module. The new electrode didn't help, but since all four burners were out it made sense that the ignition module would be the problem and not the two separate electrodes. So I ordered a new ignition module. It plugged in easily with the terminals well marked like the original. I put the original electrode back in and all four burners now light properly with the desired "tic tic tic" sound with the knobs in the "high/light" position.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

I removed the burner knobs, unscrewed the 2 screws and removed the cover. I pulled the old switch off the stem and removed the wires. I reconnected the wires to the new switch and pushed it in place on the stem. After checking to make sure the new igniter switch worked, I replaced cover tightened the 2 screws and replaced the knobs. Job done in 5 minutes!

Unplug and pull range away from wall.
Remove metal panel from back of range by using nutdriver to remove 4 screws.
Use phillips scewdriver to remove 2 screws holding old spark module.
Unplug 4 wires from spark module and note placement of wires for reinstall.
Install new module by reversing procedure.
Slide range back against wall and plug in.

Entire process took less than 30 minutes.

NOTE: Spark Module received from partselect.com did not match old part exactly. The screw holes on the new part did not line up with screw holes from old part. I reinstalled new part with just 1 screw. Was told by partselect customer service that the part I received had been substituted and would work fine. It does work but it did not fit correctly.

The 15-year-old Jen-Air stove started smelling really bad. I thought it was a dead animal stuck in the exhaust tube which runs under the floor to the outside. I flushed it out with clorine bleach, but it was still bad. It turned out to the be the grease filter. I washed it every week in the diswasher, but it just was not enough to get it clean enough. Finally, the grease went rancid and smelled really bad. This "repair" took about 30 seconds.

:-) - Just removed the old one and replace with the new one. Nothing to it. Takes 30 seconds.

Turn off power, removed wires from switch, unscrewd lock nuts. Did the reverse to put the new switch with the exception of the the power which should always be turned off first. Took less than 5 min. to install. Wife happy!! which makes me happy.

Extremely easy.
First, I turned powr off to appliance at electric panel (don't trust switches).
Next, I removed the 2 screws that held the panel cover, removed the dials, and removed 2 screws at each one (total eight) - this requrid a hex screw driver bit, which I had in my handy set.
I proceeded to loosen the panel, and disconnect the wires attached to the old switch (this may be tricky - mine came off easy, but did require care as to not to strip the wire from the clamp).
Once the old switch was removed and the plastic housing unscrewed, I attached the new fan assembly, and connected the wires, and reinstalled everything back in the same order.
(This is a good time to clean all the grease and dirt that has collected thru the years-before you put everything back).
Turned the power back on, and everything worked like before.
I figured I saved about 4 hours worth of labor (4x$50=$200 / minimum) plus any inflated part price I would have paid for a $20 part from PartSelect! It felt good!

Turn off the gas supply and unplug the electric supply. Remove the top grates and the burner cartridges. Remove 12 screws around the top cover and loosen the two screws for the fan switch. Pull the fan switch up and out of the way, remove the top cover. With a marking pen, label the four igniter switches and pull them off the gas valves. From underneath, remove the gas line from the pressure regulator, then remove the regulator from the pipe coming from the circular manifold. With a 3/16 socket (1/4 inch drive) or a 3/16 nut driver, remove the four screws that hold the manifold. Then from the top pull the manifold up and out. On the bottom, remove the screw (1/4 inch socket or nut driver) and remove the old gas valve. That's it. Now just put it all back together in reverse order. I used pipe joint compound on the pipe threads. Check for leaks with a soapy water solution. If I had to do this again, it would only take me half the time. I wasn't sure how everything came apart the first time..

very very easy to swap out the old burner knobs and greasy old filter...less than a minute! It looks brand new....