CVE1400B-C Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

1st I found the 2 screws that held the control panel in place. Then the switch slid out of it's pocket, 3 wires pulled, and the new one replaced. The best part of this repair is finding this site. Other sites did not have adequate pictures of the switch. On this site I was able to recognize and double check (by bringing the switch to my monitor) before I bought. I bookmarked this site! Thanks!
[PS. I revised my story, but would give you guys more like 4-5 stars! ]

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

removed 4 screws holding burner controls. removed wires off old and placed on new burner control. very pleased with quick shippig of part. two days and range was as good as new. excellent company to buy from

The Model number could no longer be read clearly on the stove electric grill with a down draft vent system, so all I had was the size and looks of the old grease/air filter. I was very happy to come across Parts Select by way of an amazon.com search. Their web site's design and the parts pictures with detailed descriptions made it easy to find exactly what I needed. The grease filter fit perfectly in no time. I have successfully used my cooking grill again.

Changing the socket with a new one simply required removing one screw and splicing the two existing wires to the pigtails on the new socket. It took longer to unpack the replacement part than actually doing the job.

First, I removed the two screws holding the element in place. I removed the element from the connector. I then removed the trim ring and drip pan. I unscrewed the retaining screw holding the connector and pulled out the connector about three inches and disconnected the two wires leading to from the old connector. I removed the old connector. I then connected the two wires leading from the new connector and fasten the connector to its retainer with a screw . I reinserted the drip pan and trim ring and plugged the new element into the connector. I turned on control knob to high and tested the element., which glowed red hot. Job completed and customer very well satisfied..

The only fan switch available for Jenn-Air was electrically compatible (amps, high/low control) with my 15 year old unit, but the existing mounting plate needed to be modified. The original switch was an undermount and the replacement switch snapped in from the top. This modification required a 1/2" drill bit and a file to square off the edges. Since the plate was cast from soft aluminum, it was fairly easy. Also, one of the spade connections needed to be changed (part supplied). It now looks good and works fine.

It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!

Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.

I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.

I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.

Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.

To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.

Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............

Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select

I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.

First I removed a screw that held the element in place then disconnected the two wires . Then I just reattached the two wires put the screw back in place and was done in about 10 minutes. Fairly easy fix, I had this go out a few years ago and had a repairman fix it, and saw how easy it was, so this time I did it myself. Easy job!!

The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.

1. Shut the breaker off; Jenn-Air's design will have you working around hot leads if you don't.
2. Raise the control panel
3. Remove burner and unscrew the burner connector; trace the wires back to the control panel bottom and remove them
4. On the replacement connector, add the electrical for the control panel. These are not included and can be found at any hardware store; they are a standard size.
5. Connect the new wires and put everything back together.
6. Reset the break and test.