CSX22GRSAAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

I watched the you tube video. Very easy! the part was easy to order came earlier that expected and was fixed in less than 5 minutes!

Unscrew 2 screws to remove broken part, screw in new.

First, depending on when you find out your problem, be prepared to toss out spoiled food. Unplug the unit. Since you must allow the ice build up on the coil to melt, be prepared for water. Use towels placed under the coil in the freezer to soak this up or it will end up on the floor. Remove ice maker bucket as the ice will melt, that is if there is any. In my case the defrost timer was bad but I later learned that my defrost heater was also bad. Do yourself a favor and change both the defrost timer and defrost heaters. This issue is generally an age issue so replacing both will give you peace of mind. Also, clean the whole freezer as this is the time to do it. You will be surprised at the ice maker bucket cleanliness. Time to prepare and clean is what takes additional time. Time to repair is short and simple. One last thing, when replacing the defrost timer try not to mess with the temp. control slides as you will have to put them back in the proper positions for reassembly of the cover.

First off, Parts Select has a great YouTube video showing exactly how to replace this refrigerator hinge cam. This repair was for my sister's 20-year old GE refrigerator. I used to do this same repair every 3 years on an expensive fridge my wife and I owned - one that had additional wood panels mounted on the door. The panels exceeded the hinges' designed weight limit, so every 3 years I replaced the bottom plastic hinge cams. On that fridge, I could replace BOTH interlocking hinge cams - one pair on each door. On my sister's fridge, the bottom cam of the pair appeared to be riveted onto the frame - rendering it impossible to replace. You may be able to replace both interlocking cams or only the top half cam. You won't know until you lift the door off and look. The bottom cam sits at a 90 degree angle to the door cam and it remains attached to the bottom frame of the refrigerator. These are easy to replace and their design is ingenious. The job is simple and well worth tackling if only to see how your door works. My sister's bottom cam was worn out, but not broken. The blessing: replacing the top half of that cam - the part attached to the bottom of the door - allowed the door to open and close LIKE NEW! The door worked perfectly and I'm thankful to Parts Select for having the hard-to-find cam and for shipping it overnight to me while visiting my sister in Ohio. Now her 20 year old refrigerator door closes on its own, tight as a drum, as if it was brand new. To be safe, I ordered (2) pieces - the matching top and bottom of the pair - but due to the rivet, could only replace one cam. The original $3 "fiber" shim was still good, but I replaced it anyway. I recommend taking cell phone photographs as you go so you know exactly how to re-assemble the three or four interlocking parts of the hinge. I referred to my photos as I re-assembled the new cam. Clearing items off the fridge door: 10 minutes. Removing the shelves, unscrewing the top and lifting the door to the counter: 10 Minutes. Disassembling the hinge, cleaning the area and reassembling the cam/hinge: 20 Minutes. Cleaning the bottom cam area of the Fridge mount and re-mounting the door: 10 Minutes.

Ordered part on line, arrived the next day. Looked at the screw (phillips head). Had trouble dropping screws but got our magnetic phillips head and it worked like a charm. So proud of myself as my husband did not have to do a thing.

Solenoid pushing the crushed ice flapper was burned out. Solenoid was easy to find unplug and replace. I used the old piston which simplified things. Now works great

Ordered this part after i replaced the plastic tubes on the back as the problem persisted. loosen the nuts holding the water inlet lines, remove the cover to the valve. remove the valve and the water inlet line to the the valve. Disconnect the 2 outlets from the valve. 1 outlet to icemaker and other outlet to water cooler (bigger). Connect water inlet and 2 outlets to the new valve, test the water lines. Found the inlet is leaking, removed it and added teflon tape and reconnect it. All is done. Then I left the freezer door open for 3 hours to melt the ice on the wrong places and all is well.

Followed the online video exactly and it was easily done. Couldn't have been better. The problem is solved.

I just followed the video instruction supplied by PartSelect and the whole thing was a breeze.

Bought a new Ice Bucket and Auger assembly and replaced the existing unit. Had to remove 4 Phillips head screws, remove and replace front panel and put bucket back in the fridge. (The bucket just drops in place in the freezer) and works perfect!!

Removed freezer door, put a blanket over the opening to keep food frozen. Installed hinge and replaced door.

Ordering the complete Auger Assembly made it real easy. I only had to unscrew the ice maker door and re-attach it to the new Assembly. It took me longer to write this than to reassemble and re-install.