CSX22DJB Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

I had to call for a appointment for repair with GE Appliance because I thought then it . .was something electrical. The technician came out & checked everything out, turned out it was not electrical, The technician went out to his truck got a light bulb from his truck, put it in & it worked. It cost me $121.00 for trip charge from GE appliance for a light bulb that worked, your light bulbs were defective twice. Very disappointed with your products, cost me alot of money for a good light bulb thru GE appliance

remove lower back cover - disconnect wires to fan motor - place 6" fan to blow on condenser - fridge began cooling & freezing again - ordered part - part arrived - removed fan motor & bracket - cleaned brackets & fan blade - cleaned lint & dust from condenser compartment (took longer to clean than anything else) - replaced fan motor - replaced cover - was hero with wife ... :-)

as described, I used a thin screwdriver to wedge in and pull down existing, broken switch. I was able to pull it down about a 1/4 inch, but wasn't quit able to disegage it until I gripped it with pliers. I then pulled it out, unplugged the old switch, plugged in the new switch, and carefully tucked the wires back into the fridge and snapped the new switch into place.

10 minutes total.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

I weged a block of wood under the door to hold the weight then used a nutdriver to removed the two screws attaching the bottom hinge to the refrigerator. The plastic closing cam was broken and preventing the door from closing. I found some plastic washers in my junk drawer to install on the lower hinge as a temporary fix to keep the appliance operational until the correct replacement parts could be tracked down. I then called local appliance stores in search of the closing cam and learned that none of them had the part in stock. I then hit the internet and within minutes found a picture of exactly what I needed at PartsSelect.com and had it on order a couple minutes later. A couple days after that, the new hinge was delivered, Again, I proped up the door, removed the lower hinge and replaced it with the new the new one that included the new closing cam. I was very happy to have saved lots of time and money and my wife was even happier to have the refrigerator working properly again. :)

Simple. UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. Remove set screw holding valve to frame, switch hoses one at a time into new valve, switch wires one set at a time from old to new, re-attach the new valve, turn on water , plug in fridge, check for leaks. 2-minute job.

Changed the door stop and hinge assembly. Door works perfectly.

Pulled out the fridge, took off the cardboard back. Get a nut driver instead of screwdriver (easier). TURN OFF WATER NOW. UNPLUG FRIDGE NOW. Removed one screw holding valve. Pulled off electrical connectors. Use two small adjustable wrenches to remove water lines. Tag the plastic tubes (I marked RED and BLUE). Grab the new valve and try to stuff it into the same space. Whoops ! Dang plastic housing protecting the electrical from the water is in the way. Have to cut most of it out to make it fit. By the way, DONT follow the instructions about take the bracket off the OLD solenoid. You don't need it. Just throw it away. Connect the wires (remember to use the adapters sent with the new solenoid) Mount the new solenoid (now that the plastic is out of the way) with the one screw (nut driver). Hook up the supply water line (wrenches). Hook up the plastic tubes (aren't you glad you marked them ?). The tubes just push into the new solenoid, no more threads. I just left the plastic nuts on the tubing. TURN ON THE WATER. Check your connections for leaking. Do this before plugging in the fridge. If OK, plug in the fridge. Run some water on the door, look in about an hour to see if cubes are making now. Put cardboard back on fridge. Push fridge back against wall. CONGRATULATE YOURSELF ON A JOB WELL DONE.

Removed screws that held crusher to metal plate, making note of how unit came apart. Replaced Ice bucket auger and front and rear helix. I had to also order bushing/nut that screws to end of auger as the threads on mine were stripped out . I used the parts view on PartSelect.com to help in reassembly of the ice crusher blades, without that view it would have been trial and error in their proper assembly as I had forgotten ( because from 1st parts reciept and second parts reciept being about a week) how they came out. After assembly, with no left over parts I might add, I installed unit in to freezer and it works like new.
Thanks, Louie D.

i put a new evaporator motor in and now it works fine

This is a built-in unit. Remove the external bezel at the top of the unit. Reach through the unit and unplug the frig. On the compressor unit, you'll see a vertical metal panel. Remove the metal panel and the timer is right behind it. Remove one wire at a time and switch it to the new timer. Remove timer and replace with new one.

Just an added comment, GE Service wanted to put an "ice kit" into my unit. The full repairs would have cost $1,000. While I described how to replace the defrost timer, the problem was the tray heater. But that's another story.

My problem was that the tube from the water valve to the ice maker was freezing when the valve was malfuntioning and sending more water, causing it to back up and freeze in the reception tube. Then the plastic water tube from the valve to the freezer seperated and water was leaking onto the floor. By reading the repair storyies on the Partselect website I learned that the water valve was not working correctly and needed replacing. I ordered the replacement part on a Wednesday evening and had the part at my house via FEDEX on Saturday morning. It took me about 20 minuttes to complete the entire repair.
I had shut the water off to the valve and unplugged the refrigerator.
First I took the ice storage unit out of the freezer. I then unsrewed the ice making tray from the left side of the freezer. I lowered the unit to the shelve but did not disconnect the wiring. I then pulled the water reception tube that goes from the ice maker to the outside of the refrigerator on the top right rear. There was grozen water contained in the tube. I ran it under the sink and released the frozen water so the tube was clear. I reinserted into the tunnel it sits in and reattached it to the 90 degree plaqstic fitting in the outside of the right rear of the refrigerator.I reattached the plastic water hose from the water valve to the 90 degree fitting. I then reattached the ice maker in the freezer compartment.
Using a nut driver I removered the rear cardboard cover and insulation from the right rear side of the refrigerator. Using a box wrench I unscrewed and disconnected the copper water tube from the valve. I then removed the srew holding the water supply copper tubing to the refrigerator and removed the srew holding the water valve in place.
I removed the old valve from the back of the refrigerator.
I then took note of the electrical connections and transferred them to the new valve. I needed the two adapters(supplied) for the right side electric terminal.
I then transferred the water connection tubes. Take note one is larger than the other. On the old valve they screwed into the water valve with a compression nut. On the new valve you only needed to insert the plastic water tube into the right size hole and push. The comression connection is automatic and does not require the nut. ( I just pushed the nuts back on the tubing and left them). There is a plastic seperation piece on the new valve. I just twisted it loose and removed it. This allowed ease in positioning the valve and water tubes.
I then inserted the new valve into the right rear of the refrigerator and resrewed the unit to the frame using the nut driver.
I then re-attached the water supply copper tubing onto the nipple on the new valve and using a box wrench re-attached same.
I then turned on the water supply to the refrigerator and checked for leaks.
I then replugged the refrigerator into the electical outlet and started the ice maker cycle.
I waited to see that all was working correctly. i then re-attached the insulation and cardboard cover on the rear of the refrigerator and pushed the unit back into the wall space.
Everything is working great now!

Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cardboard cover, vacuumed lint from coils and equipment area. Removed dual valves and labeled the four electrical leads with masking tape. Cut off the end of water lines to dispenser and ice maker to remove threaded connections (New are simply push on). The water leads are of different diameters, so there is no confusion.
Decided to replace water line at the same time so bought a plastic replacement for less than $10, removed old copper line and replaced it with new. (Original plumber used a custom made line with a smaller diameter and this may have contributed to the low flow).
Connected all lines and wires (had to use adapter supplied with valve for two of the leads which are of different connector widths than original) and secured valve and back panel. Had to bedn the valve mounting plate somewhat to allow it to fit (this is also a little different from the original).
After installation, it takes a little time to refill the lines until proper flow is established both at the dispenser and the icemaker.
Replacing the Helix took completely disassembling the ice drawer, Take your tiime in doing this as there are many parts that fit in only one precise way. This helix replacement took about 20 minutes total.

The fan was the correct part. It arrived one day after my well trained son-in-law had left for Texas. I had to install the motor myself. He had trained me well; it was not hard. the most difficult was getting the two tabs on the fan housing to fit back into the frame of the refrigerator where they belonged. Thanks. the part & delivery were overpriced, but I needed seed and convenience. Thanks for getting it right the first time.
John Moragues

Door cam disintegrated after 20 years. This was a terrific site for suggested repairs. My problem was not paying attention to how the door shim, cam and spacer were placed on the hinge. Most of the site's instructions did not forewarn the obvious...pay attention when doing repairs!!

Instructions from others were generally pretty good but as adept as I am at D-I-Y I still did not pay attention to how I took something apart so it could be assembled properly.

I don't think that ordering an entire door hinge set is necessary. It does not appear that shims and/or spacer come with the hinge assembly. Door cam was all that was needed. I thought about replacing the cam on the freezer side but won't do it until absolutely necessary.

This is a very good website and my thanks to all of the posts for the instructions!!