CSX20BABGWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

we took off the old one and replaced it.

First let me remind you my husband is disabled so it was up to me to do the repair. I'm 70 yrs old. I first removed everything from freezer and then removed the back cover removimg 4 screws,then i removed the old defrost unit which held 2 screws replaced with the new one then i had to put cover back in place..then put everything back in freezer and so far its working...Only time will tell.But the part was so reasonable that if if i have to i will get another..but not for a while i'm hoping,

Removed the door by removing the top hinge and lifting it off the broken bottom hinge/cam assembly. Removed the broken hinge/cam assembly found out why the cam broke the doorstop was bent so I had to order the doorstop also. The ordering of the parts was so easy. They shipped them on Monday and they arrived the next day. I will use Parts Select again

removed the back of the freezer unit and replaced the defrost heater and thermastat. took the controls out of the produce side and replaced the defrost timer.

Removed the back panel of the freezer to inspect. The coils were totally iced up. Proceeeded to defrost coils with a heat gun. I then removed the defrost element to insepct and meter reading showed as open (infinite resistance). I ordered a replacement element and it arrive 2 days later. Replace the element and everything worked OK except for the ice maker. It seem that moisture had frozen on the motor impeller for the auger drive motor and locked it up. I removed the drive assembly and defrosted the motor impeller to free it. Everthing now is working fine.
Your blow up drawings made this a very easy repair
Thanks

This is the third time the defrost heater has failed, the part was shipped prompt, and the replacement was upgraded to a dual coil. The repair was quick and more cost effective than having a repair guy come out .

Removed cover exposing defrost heater. Defrosted the cooling system. Removed screws holding defroster, replaced old with new, by way of two quick connect eletrical clips. replaced cover. Pretty easy once I figured our that it was the defroster and not the timer.

Determined that the defrost heater was bad (didn't test the thermostat or sensor) and attempted to replace it first.

Got the part in one day (super fast shipping).

1) Removed back panel on the inside of the freezer compartment using a nut driver.
2) Removed the ground wire clip from the metal panel
3) Used a screw driver to remove the two philips head screws that hold the heater assembly in place.
4) carefully pulled off the wires attached to the assembly.
5) attached the wires to the new heater
6)attached the new heater and screwed the new heater in place
7) attached the inside panel
8) fridge is now working great.

Removed everything from the refrigerator door. Removed the screw holding the cover over the top hinge. Removed the two (8mm) bolts holding the top hinge to the refrigator. Removed the door. Removed the plastic grill/cover and the two (8mm) bolts from the lower hinge assembly. Installed the new hinge assembly. Replaced the closing cam (included in the hinge assembly kit) on the bottom of the door. Put the door back on the lower hinge. Installed the upper hinge. Adjusted the door and tightened the bolts on the upper hinge, and replaced the hinge cover. Done!

Note: I was not aware that the Cam Riser came with the Hinge Assembly, and did not need the part.

1)Removed all food from right refridge door, then removed all shelves etc.
2)Removed phillips screw holding protective plastic cap on upper hinge, then removed cap.
3)Removed upper hinge using socket (to loosen and tighten) and nut driver, then removed door.
4)Removed Old hinge assembly, replaced with new using socket and nut driver
5)Removed Old Door Shim Cam & Door Hinge Shim from bottom of Door, then replaced with new parts.
6)Re-Installed Door, adjusting the top hinge for door to close properly, then put shelved and food back.

The most difficult part of the repair was the melting of the ice and preparation. I did change a single element heater for a dual element heater, which required a little manual flexing of the sub-frame, but it assembled with little issue. I was lucky, I did not have to splice the extended harness connection. Rerouting my existing gave sufficent length.
Not sure if the single elements were changed for dual, but it did have the same PN as the unit I replaced.

By the time this failure (failed defroster heating element) is evident (top of freezer starts thawing), the entire freezer coil is encased in a block of ice & frost is visble on the back freezer panel.
Empty the freezer & unplug (or turn circuit breaker off) then remove all racks and the light bulb then remove the two lower drawer guides using a phillips srewdriver (2 scrwes each). Use a 1/4" nutdriver to remove the two panel screws on either side of the light bulb socket and pull the panel out, unclip the green grounging wire and set panel aside. this exposes the freezer evaporator coil which is probably encased in ice. If so, use a heat gun or hair dryer to melt the ice away. This takes a half hour of heat application and a bowl or other catchpan should be placed under the coil to remove some of the resulting melting runoff so the evap. pan under the fridg/freezer unit won't be overwhelmed with the excess water.
Replacing the defrost heater & bracket assembly itself is just a matter of removing two phillips screws on either side of the bracket assembly, pulling the bracket free and then uncliping the two electrical terminals. Clip in the new unit to the eletrical terminals & replace the screws, reinstall the rear panel (don't forget to reconnect the ground wire), install the drawer backets, light bulb, shelves and drawer & reapply power. Replacing the bracket itself w/o the defrost proceedure takes about 15 minutes.

Note: If this symptom occurs and is diagnosed (the heater tube will be black and electrically read as "open" using an ohmmeter) and you cannot get the heater assembly & bracket assembly immediately, you can use the heat gun (hairdryer) manual defrost proceedure noted above to get the the unit running while you await the parts arrival. I used the manual defrost procedure and there was just some moderate frost on the coils after five days when I was able to install the replacement part.

Removed cover in freezer over evaporator,unbolted element ,plugged ,and replaced, very simple. Should be first thing checked when theres a problem.

I called the repair tech who obviously did not want to come out, thank god. He told me to remove the back panel of the freezer and also check fan on back side. Told him there was alot of ice on freezer condenser and he advised that defrost heater was probably shot, and referred me to partselect.com. I unplugged the frig/freezerer, and removed the heater and saw it was blackened and cooked. I used a hairdryer to thaw the condenser, and the new part arrived the next day. I reattached the 2 plugs, 2 screws, and put the back panel of the freezer back on. I plugged the appliance back in, checked it 6 hours later and the frig is cold again. It was a VERY easy repair and took less than 30 minutes from start to finish. I was quoted between $40-$78 for the part at 3 different places in the phone book, which would have also required a 45 minute drive. I got it here for $38 including shipping and it arrived in 24 hours !
With the "blow-up view" appliance feature on this web-site, and simply being guided to the correct part by entering the model number, it was a very easy ordering process and repair.

i unplugged the fridge, first i removed the racks, then unhooked the grounding clip. the i tool off two 1/4 nut screws holding the backplate. then i used my wifes hair dryer to thaw out the ice. after it thawed out i unscrewed the element bracket which is secured by two philips screw. after taking the screws off, its just unplug one end at a time and plug it to the new one to avoid confusion. then reverse install to put back together.