CST20KABGWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed old 1 lamp heater and a couple of screws as per instructions, installed new assy. And its been over a month and it's working great. And the price of the part, was unbelievable compared to most other retailers, thank you

I blocked the bottom of the door(CAREFULLY!!) in position to elevate the door & take strain off the lower hinge & pivot post, while maintaining proper door alignment. I removed the two screws holding the hinge & post assembly from the frame, saving the screws & spacer for reuse. I removed the two screws holding the upper cam bracket on the door, again keeping the attaching parts. I installed and carefully aligned the new cam, original spacer & retaining plate to the lower edge of the door. I installed the new hinge & post assembly using the existing spacer & screws. I aligned the door & seal while checking the gap from top to bottom and from side to side. I carefully tighten the screws and rechecked the gap between the door & frame as well as the alignemnt of the door seal. Once satisfied with the alignment, I finished tightening the screws. I emphasize care and extreme caution in reinstalling the screws, they are a self-tapping (self-threading) type of fastener and this requires caution to make sure they are started and installed in the original threads of the door & frame. I put them all in using only finger pressure until I was positive they were started straight, going into the original threads, NOT trying to cross-thread or cut new threads, the structure is too thin for that and stripped threads will result! The door alignment and gap spacing is critical, make sure to check these adjustments carefully to ensure proper operation. Total time of repair, less than 15 minutes. I hope I have not over-simplified this because I have over 55 years of Automotive shop experienced and an ASE Certified Master Auto & Truck Technician...:-)

Thank you for the video on how to replace defrost timer. We watched the video twice and it went rather smoothly. Thanks for your help. The frig is working like a charm.

Unplug refrigerator, empty freezer, remove shelves and back panel. defrost with hair dryer. Removed single element heater at bottom of coils by removing two phillip head screws. Installed new double element defrost heater (replacement for single element heater) after rerouting the wire from the left side to right side and remove tape at looping wire at connector to make wire long enough to hook to defrost element. Plug connectors to element before screwing element in place. put back panel and shelves back in place and plug refrigerator back in. NOTE: I used continuity tester on old defrost heater to confirm that it was bad.

removed back panel with the nut driver and screw driver. lower half of coils were a block of ice... took about 1 hour of using a hair dryer to get rid of ice/water. installed new dual element heater, that was an upgrade from my single element. wire was long enough to re-route down the other side so it was a simple repair, no wire nuts or re-engineering needed ! without thaw time, took about 15 minutes total. cools to 0' in freezer and 33 in fridge now !!! cool !

Just as your video described, although due to the age of the fridge, it took a bit longer to remove the defective switch. Your video made this so simple, I can't imagine why we lived with a dark fridge for so long! I was ready to buy a whole new fridge, as repairmen are often nonexistent for small repairs. I am the biggest fan of your company & it's repair video. THANK YOU SO MUCH

Too easy not to try yourself. These instructions are accurate - add only to splice in the extra wiring if your left side wire cannot mate with the right side of the dual heater. Instructions included with the repair parts. Parts arrived quickly and first quality.

Removed everything from freezer, Removed back panel, defrosted coils. removed thermostat top left, cut wires and used heat shrink to splice back together, clipped thermostat back on. I actually replaced the defrost timer and defrost heater also. Best bet is to do all 3 at one time. Part Select will have the new parts to you in days. Great Service and the online repair man is great. I saved hundreds of dollars doing myself.

Replaced the defrost heater. Unloaded all food from the freeze,r (side by side type) removed the shelves, light cover and bulb and pack panel. There are two screws in the back panel at the top. Slide up the panel and remove it by turning it counter clockwise and pulling it out. Defrosted coils with a heat gun and removed the old heater which is mounted at the bottom of the coils with 2 screws. The new heater is a dual element type but mounted exactly the same way except for moving the wires from the left side of the coils to the right. Both power wires mount to the right side of the heater. The kit came with wires and connectors if the freezer's wiring wouldn't reach to the dual element heater. I didn't have to use them. This is a dead simple repair anybody with any mechanical skill can do. So far the freezer seems to be working properly. The heater cycles with a certain number of hours of compressor operation, so without unloading the freezer and opening up the back again, we'll monitor the temp in the refrigerator side and listen to see if the fan runs in the freezer too much. When the coils were iced up, the fan was running all the time in the freezer as the refrigerator side got warm. The freezer side was still cold. The fan causes a flow of cold air to enter the refrigerator side through a baffle controlled by the freezers mother board to maintain it's temp. Since defrosting the freezer coils and replacing the pump the fan almost never runs. Hopefully it is fixed.

It was a piece of cake. I just unscrewed two screws on each rail and screwed the new ones on. Fast and easy. Also I would like to add that your parts web page was easier to get through then the GE page. Thanks will order from you again. Kim

Very easy. For the 2nd time in a row your diagnostic tools led straight to the solution on the first try. Absolutely awesome.

I removed the lower cover plate and placed a small scissor jack (used my car jack) under the refrigerator door, loosened the upper hinge, slightly raised jack to take the weight off of the lower hinge, removed the hinge with a 5/16 nut driver and the cam with a 5/16 socket. Installed new hinge and cam, removed door support and secured top hinge, check operation. Worked GREAT, did not have to remove door.

The Hinge Cam Riser came as ordered and arrived in 1 day! The original riser was clearly broken in half. After installing the new one on the door hinge and adjusting it several times, the door closed a little but still didn't close all the way. Finally, I re-installed all the door trays and filled them with the usual perishables, and the door closed perfectly! Apparently, the extra weigh on the door was needed to complete the job.

take fan out,put new in

Empty all the good stuff stored in the door. Remove top hinge, lift off door. Remove bottom hinge from door and refrigerator, replace with new hinges. Replace door and reinstall top hinge. Very simple. Worst part was removing all the stuff stored in the door then putting it back! My parts arrived very quickly and I'm very pleased with Part Select.