CSK27PFTCWW Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

First of all, the larger white plastic tubes in this thing are 5/16" OD, which no plumbing store seems to stock. At the lower left rear end there are 2 tubes, one for water and one for ice, that are doomed to fail being in proximity of a heat source - they essentially get cooked to the point of becoming brittle and cracking. The smaller tube and union can be easily found, but do yourself a favor if the larger one cracks and order the plastic tube and water tube union here, and just cut off the brittle part and amend the old tube using the union.

I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the catch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.

WIth a flathead screwdriver, I "popped off" the 4 long thin white "cover" strips that run from the top and bottom of the doors to the beginning of the door handles. This exposed the screws that held the old handles in place. Simply remove the old handles, replace with new ones, then replace the "cover strips" . It was very easy and looks so much better. I should have done it years ago !

After doing some research, I found that this problem is due to a defrost issue, and the easiest way to make sure you get it fixed is by replacing the defrost timer, defrost heaters, and defrost thermostat. The defrost timer is in the compartment in the fridge on the top level, behind the temperature settings panel. The defrost heaters were behind the back panel in the freezer section, and are long glass tubes that are only attached by a couple screws. When you buy the parts, dont buy the heaters and a defrost thermostat seperately, because the heaters come with a new defrost thermostat already wired to them. Once you get the back panel off, its pretty self explanatory how to remove the heaters.

Ordered parts from another vendor - got wrong parts (1/4 in parts instead of 5/16 in parts). With your parts, I just cut out the bad portion of the tubing, and replaced it using the 2 union connectors. Thanks.

1 Remove trim pieces above and below the handles. Loosen by prying from base with flat screw driver.
2. Remove the two screws fastenig each door handle to its door. Remove handles.
4. Secured each new door handle to its door with existing screws.
5. Clean and reinstall trim pieces.

I removed the back panel held in place by 5 screws. I located the thermostat and disconnected it from the wire connection to another part. Due to the connection requirement, I had to cut the wires from the original part and splice the connector with wires to the new part. After securing the spliced wires and covering in electrical tape, I replaced the panel and all screws.

First I turned the freezer off and took out all of the shelves in the freezer section. I then removed the guides that the shelves go into. I removed these only from one side of the freezer - the left side actually. Now I removed the plastic piece that keeps the bulb in the freezer protected. Removed the bulb. Removed the three screws on the top and the two in the bottom that keep the rear panel of the freezer attached. This exposed the header cable and the coils. The coils had ice on the lower section, I used a hair dryer to melt the ice. Removed the cable assembly that has the two heater elements and the thermostat. The thermostat had to be plucked off the the metal pipe of coils. Replaced the assembly with the purchased assembly. Clipped the thermostat onto the metal pipe of the coils. COnnected the wires at the white connector. Attached the real panel using the five screws, put the bulb back in, installed the bulb cover, installed the shelf guides, put the shelves back in.

Freezer freezes very well now.

The repair is easy, just pop the grill off around the ice and water door, then there are 4 screwws to take out so the touch pad can be moved out of the way to unsnap the old door assm. and snap in the new one and wait about a year and a hald to order another one!!!!!

First pried off front panel, then removed 4 screws that hold dispensing unit in place, then rotated top of dispensing unit out, then pulled off electrical connector, then removed screw that holds switch in place and removed switch. Installed new switch by reversing above procedure. Only thing switch wasn't the problem. No ice problem was resolved later by replacing control printed circuit board which is located in the same area.

Poped out with screwdriver the old swithch and unplugged the two wires. Plugged in the wires to the new swithch and pushed it back in the hole where the old switch was before.

bought an push in, in line connector and a new 5/16 plastic hose. I just replaces 2 feet of plastic hose from the selonid up an splices the hose using the connector. Worked perfect.

Followed previous instructions from a previous post. Inserted small screwdriver in the 2 outer holes up under the face plate to remove it then removed 4 screws holding the inner assembly which allowed access to the flapper assembly. Replaced it and reassembled everything. Problem solved

We couldn't get the other connector loose from one end of the tubing so he said just cut it and so we did and attached the connector. I now have water again in my fridge and took the sticky note down "don't use the water" as it had leaked for a year...... Thanks!

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope