Models > CSE9000ACE > Instructions

CSE9000ACE Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSE9000ACE parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the cooktop repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CSE9000ACE
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Right rear burner went bad

  • Customer: Mark from Loxahatchee FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 55 of 60 people found this instruction helpful
Turned the breaker off, I removed 2 screws securing the range top to the range, opened the top and secured it in the up position, Removed the 2 screws securing the element ,one at a time I swapped the quick connectors from the old element to the new and repeated the process in reverse. I save over $100.00 in labor, plus most companies get you for a trip charge. It was easy!!

glass cooktop element stopped working

  • Customer: Mark from mckinney TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 18 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
3 months after my 5 year warranty ran out, one of the elements on my wife's maytag cooktop "popped". I was curious to see if I could fix it myself and ran across partselect.com via google. Their step by step instructions for determining the source of the problem (i.e. either the element or the control was bad) led me to realize that the element was bad. I ordered a new one -- which arrived in 3 days! It was very easy to replace the element, since I had already taken the glass cooktop off of the range during the testing phase. Thanks partselect.com!

Stovetop element burned out

  • Customer: Lonnie from Ashton ID
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First of all, I shut off the electricity to the stove.

I had to remove the two screws holding the stovetop in place. I then lifted it up and braced it to keep it from falling, removed the bad element, carefully marking the 4 wires that were connected to the element. I then disconnected the wires, and removed the two brackets holding the element in place. I replaced it with the new element, reconnected the wires, returned the stovetop to it's original place, put the two stovetop screws in, and turned on the electricity. Then I turned on the element, and it works just fine.

replaced heating element on flat surface stove top

  • Customer: dennis from assonet MA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 14 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I removed 4 screws and then lifted up the top it gave me access to the element I followed the direction that came with the element (very clear to follow) removed and installed the new element and it worked fine. Remember to unplug the stove if it is electric this is not in the instructions.

right rear burner was inop for last 4 years

  • Customer: Thomas from Steinhatchee FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
1. tripped circuit breaker for stovetop
2. pulled the stove top out of its cabinet.
3. turned in over carefully due to the glass cooking surface.
4. used 1/4 inch nutdriver on cordless drill to remove all the screws holding the lower cover in place. lifted cover off without removing completely as power wires still attached.
5. did continuity test on burner and found it open circuit while all the other 3 burners had continuity.
6. removed defective burner by removing two more screws and saw element was fried on the cooking side.
7. wrote down all part numbers and put it all back together.
8. changed the burner out when new one arrived by repeating steps 1 thru 6. Pay attention to the correct wiring setup. Do one wire at a time to make sure you don't mess up. MAKE SURE THE CIRCUIT BREAKER IS TRIPPED BEFORE YOU KILL YOUR SELF.

Have a tall one to celebrate the savings of two repair man call out fee's of minimum $60 each time and paying list price for the element. You probably just saved yourself $150.
Tom in Steinhatchee

Baked on sauce

  • Customer: Julie from Newnan GA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required:
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Used cooktop creme, oven cleaner and Mr. Clean sponges. After many days of working on the surface, we were able to remove 99% of the sauce.

Back heating element stopped working

  • Customer: James from Peachtree City GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I had some confusion about the correct series number associated with my stove and called Partselect. They confirmed the part I was looking at was correct in less than 5 minutes. I then completed the order online. Even with standard shipping my order was processed immediately and I received the heating element the next day.

Turned off the breaker. Removed the two screws in the front holding the range top down. Loosened the screws holding the element in place while balancing the range top with my shoulder. Removed the wires from the older element one at a time and attached them to the new element. Put the new element in place and screwed back in place. If I had a little help with the range top I think I could have completed it in 5 minutes but I was at home alone and the other stories of doing this repair made it seem easy enough and it was.

Glass top electric range element not working

  • Customer: Gary from Stockton CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

I turned off the range breaker and doubled checked to make sure the power was off . Using 1/4" ratchet wrench I removed 2 sheet metal screws and lifted the glass top up and held it in up with a small cardboard bow. I removed 2 more screws holding the element in place and installed new unit. I then

  • Customer: Howard from Citrus Springs FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
See description listed as problem

Front left burner quit after bright flash under glass top

  • Customer: Brian L. from Wilkes-Barre PA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
I ohmed out the burner element that wasnt working and found it was open. I ordered a new element thru PartSelect and installed it in the stove. I powered up the stove and turned on the burner but it didnt get hot. After a bit of testing I found that the new elements safety overtemp terminals werent in the same configuration as the original unit. I made some wiring adjustments and the burner was operating properly. Thanks PartSelect

the left front burner burned out & none of the lights to show if a burner was hot would come on.

  • Customer: Richard from Fair oaks Ranch TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
FIrst we found the power source ( this took us awhile) and cut the power at the fuse box. then we unplugged the cooktop and started to take out screws. It turned out the screw removal had nothing to do with the stove top coming out. We took the taping knife & pried it under a corner and lifted. the cook top was just sitting on the counter.
The hardest part of the whole job was holding the cook top because we did not disconnect the downdraft fan other than to pull the tape off the vent & fan. Now we could undo the rachet screws that held the glass top to the cook top & remove it.
Theburner was simply a matter of pulling connections loose & placing them on to the new one. The clips that hold the burner in place were removed w/ a screwdriver & replaced on to the new burner. Watch for the numbers on the burner underside to know where to reattache the clips. the unit that lights up to show that a burner is hot would not come off, but we managed to remove
the plastic part even though the clip screw would not loosen, and since it only had to float near by we used the unused wire included in the new part to hold it in place. Putting the unit back together was not too hard, but it took us a little while to get it all lined up. Be carefull of what ever you work on, the downdraft fan scratched up the counter top that we were working on. we started with cardboard under it & should have continued, we did not want to try & remove the fan. Then we put it back in the counter opening & plugged everything back in & to our amazement ( we are not handy people) it worked! the lights that had refused to work when one unit was burned out now worked on all four units. thank you partselect, we were able to do the repair with what you sent.

Burner not working

  • Customer: Warren C from Slidell LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

RIGHT SIDE REAR BURNER NOT WORKING

  • Customer: WILLIAM from TAMPA FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
ONLY HITCH I EXPERIENCED WAS IDENTIFYING THE CORRECT REPLACEMENT. THE ORIGINAL DIAGRAM PRESENTED THE ACCURATE SHAPE OF THE ELEMENT MY RANGE REQUIRED. HOWEVER A DIFFERENT SHAPED ELEMENT WAS DISPLAYED WHEN I NOTED MY UNIT IS A SERIES 12 SERIAL NUMBER. I ORDERED IT (WITH RESERVATIONS) AND AS IT TURNED OUT THE REPLACEMENT WAS IDENTICAL TO MINE. NEXT TIME I WILL HAVE A LIL MORE CONFIDENCE IN THE INSTRUCTIONS GIVEN.

SMALL ELEMENT ON COUNTER TOP RANGE NOT HEATING.

  • Customer: Brian E from Waldorf MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
1. TURNED OFF POWER TO TROUBLE SHOOT THE COUNTER TOP RANGE ELEMENTS.
2.RAISED THE COUNTER TOP UP TO WORK ON IT AND SLID TWO EVENLY PLACED WOODEN SLATS UNDER THE BOTTOM OF THE HOUSFOR STABILITY SO IT WOULD NOT FALL BACKDOWN INTO THE COUNTER TOP CUT-OUT.
3. WITH A 1/4" NUT DRIVER REMOVED THE 10 HEX-HEAD SCREW THAT WERE HOLDING THE BLACK GLASS TOP IN PLACE, PULLED OFF THE 4 .CONTROL KNOBS AND CAREFULLY REMOVED THE GLASS COVER AND CAREFULLY SEET IT ASIDE IN A SAFE PLACE.
5. A VISUAL INSPECTION OF THE NON WORKING ELEMENT SHOWED THAT IT HAD A BURN OUT SPOT CAUSING IT NOT TO HEAT.
6. GOT THE MODEL NUMBER OF THE APPLIANCE AND CHECKED THE INTERNET FOR PARTS SUPPLIERS, CHOSE PARTS ELECT BECAUSE THEY HAD THE PART IN STOCK AND COULD OVERNIGHT IT FOR REINSTALLATION THE NEXT DAY, PART DID ARRIVE THE NEXT MORNING. A VISUAL INSPECTION SHOW THAT IT WAS THE CORRECT PART AND IT WOULD BE A LIKE FOR LIKE SWAP OUT.
7. PRIOR TO REPLACING THE ELEMENT CHECK TO SEE THAT THE ELECTRICAL POWER WAS STILL OFF AT THE CIRCUIT BREAKER, MADE A QUICK SKETCH OF THE WIRING AND IDENTIFIED THE WIRES SO THAT THEY WOULD BE RETERMINATED AT THE SAME POINTS.
8.USING THE NEEDLE NOSE PLIERS PULLED OFF THE 4 STAKE ON TERMINATIONS.
9. LIFTED OUT THE 6" FROM THE BODY OF THE UNIT , REMOVED THE 4 PHILLIPS SCREWS HOLDING PARTS WHAT WERE TO BE TRANSFERED ONTO THE NEW ELEMENT.
10. TRANSFERED PARTS ONTO THE NEW ELEMENT, REINSTALLED THE ELEMENT INTO THE BODY OF THE UNIT, REINSTALLED THE 4-STAKE-ON WIRES TO THERE APPROPRIATE TERMINALS AND VERIFIED WITH PREVIOUS WIRING SKETCH.
11. REINSTALLED THE GLASS TOP, 10 SCREW HOLDING IT IN PLACE AND THE 4-CONTROL KNOBS.
12 .TURNED MAIN POWER TO THE UNIT BACK ON AND TURNED ON THE REPLACED ELEMENT, IT WORK CORRECTLY, ALSO CHECKED THE OTHER 3 ELEMENTS TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY WERE WORKING CORRECTLY.
13. WHEN THE UNIT HAD COOLED, REMOVED THE WOODEN SLATS AND LOWERED THE COUNTER TOP BACK INTO ITS CUT-OUT MAKING SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE GLASSTOP.
JOB COMPLETE.

Element quit working

  • Customer: Daryl from Oak Creek WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Important to unplug the appliance first. There were two screws which were at the top opening of the oven. They were a bit obscure, but with a bit a searching, I was able to find them. After removing those two screws, the entire top lifted up. There were four screws from the bottom of that assembly which were easy to find, and once removed, the top lifted of easily. I found it easier to remove the two power lines with two easy disconnects, this made it easier to work on the assembly. The element itself was held down by two simple clamps which required no tools. There were four easy to remove wires, and the element came right off. Simply reversing the process put it right back together, plug it in, and back to cooking again.
All Instructions for the CSE9000ACE
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