CSE7000ADE Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

1. Diagnosed problem = switch at fault not element
Made a diagram of wire positions on faulty switch
2. Ordered part = remarkable service! Switch arrived in less than 24 hours
3.Installed new switch
4. Tested appliance = success!
5. Saved $150 and a lot of aggravation
Terrific site. Excellent help in figuring out and solving the problem. Two thumbs up!

1. Turn off power at breaker. Take no chances. Turn on each working burner, fan, oven light to be sure there is no power to the appliance. Then, turn them off.
2. Pull knob on switch straight out to remove.
3. Remove 4 Phillips head screws under control panel. Pull panel gently down, then out toward you slightly to release top edge. Rest control panel on self-clean lock knob.
4. Confirm terminals on new switch match up with old switch.
5. Use needle-nose pliers to gently remove wires from old switch one at a time and place them on the
corresponding terminal on new the switch.
6. Reverse steps 3, 2 and 1. Test switch and burner.

Replaced one of the four burner control switches on my Jennair cooktop. One of the tricks I use to prevent mistakes is putting the new switch along side the existing one and swap one connector at a time over to the new switch preventing any confusion and negating any need to mark the wires. This differs from your video assistant who disconnected all the wires at once.
gc.

Changed out surface burner switch.Unscrewed two screws, changed plug onto new switch.Don't forget to turn off power!

I removed the burner elements for three burners by lifting the surface top and unplugging them. I snapped out the plug sockets that were burned out and cut the two wires, one element at a time. Using the included wire nuts I stripped the ends of the cut wire and connected each wire to one of the wires on the new socket. Once the wires were connected I snapped the sockets in place and reinstalled the elements, lowered the surface top and the range was ready to use.

After buying a 'universal' part at Lowe's and it not fitting correctly and shorting out the burner, I went online and found this source for an exact replacement part. Beside having to disassemble the drop in stove burner two or three times it went well when I had the correct part. I lost one screw somewhere and that delayed me a short time to find a replacement. Thus the 1 to 2 hours. It would have been about a 30 minute job if I had been smarter.

I unplugged the stove. Took out the burner and removed receptacle by pulling it out of the bracket and clipping the wires. One thing you want to make sure is that when you clip the wires from the receptacle you're replacing you leave enough wire so that you can connect them to the wires on the new receptacle when it is in place on the stove. I had just enough but would have liked more. The bracket I received didn't match the one on the stove so I used the one on the stove since the receptacle itself was the same as the one I was replacing.

Easy as Pie.

We followed the instructions on the video after receiving our part - they were perfect instructions and led us right through the repair. I have to say it would have been harder to do with one person - but probably doable.

First I moved the left rear burner to the right front. No change. Then I moved the burner units from left to right, No change. I guessed it was the control switch and ordered from PartSelect. Turnaround time from PartSelect was excellent.
I turned off the powerr to the range. Removed the screws holding on the front panel and then pulled the panel out far enough to see behind it. I located the faulty control switch and then held the new switch, next to it, and turning to proper orientation. I then, one at a time moved the wires to the new switch. After that it was mount the new switch, put the panel back in place and turn on the power.

Shut off power at breaker box. Removed top burner unit. Removed old receptacle (Mounting screw was rusty so I drilld out the old one.) Cut wires from old unit. Stripped wires back on old unit. Attached old and new wire with ceramic wire nut. Attached new unit. Reinserted top unit. Reconnected power and "voila". Wife was smiling again.

First turn off the power to the stove/oven. Next I removed the 4 screws located on the bottom surface of the control panel. You need to open the oven door to see/access them. The control panel can then be removed by rotating the bottom outward which allows the flange on the top to disengage. Next remove the two screws that hold the switch to the control panel. Note which wire goes to which spade connector. A quick photo can help. Undo the wires. Remove the old switch. Reinstall the wires. Mount the new switch to the control panel. Mount the control panel back into the stove/oven. Turn on the power and test. The burner now works as new!

10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.