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Models > CSC24GRSBWH > Instructions

CSC24GRSBWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSC24GRSBWH parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CSC24GRSBWH
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dirty ice from rusty auger

  • Customer: William from Chesapeake, VA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old bucket/auger assy from frig. Removed 4 + screws from front cover. Put front cover on new bucket/auger assy. Reinstalled in frig.....done. now have clean ice.

Frig would stop working every so often. Lots of food got spoiled.

  • Customer: Rene from Bronx, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Got part overnight. Unscrewed cover plate at top of regerator compartment, disconnected old part, connected new part. Screwed back plate. Voila!

I saved a bunch of money!

Refigerator door would no longer self close

  • Customer: Melvin from Philomath, OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Moved all items from door storage into refrigerator shelves. Removed top hinge cover held by single screw and top hinge plate held by two bolts. Lifted up door to clear bottom hinge pin and removed door. Covered open front of refrigerator with plastic wrap to keep cold in refrigerator with door removed. Laid door on kitchen counter top and removed bottom hinge assembly held on by two bolts. Replaced upper cam located on bottom of door and screwed the hinge assembly back on to bottom of door (helps to keep the three plates in same sequence and note the position of cam). Drilled out the rivet that holds the lower cam to the bottom hinge pin. Removed old lower cam and and replaced with new cam and secured to lower hinge assembly with pan head screw and nut (instead of rivet). Replaced door back onto lower hinge pin and secured upper hinge pin with original bolts. Placed cover on upper hinge assembly and secured with original screw. Removed plastic wrap from front of refrigerator and moved the items that originally were stored in the door back to provide weight needed for door to close properly. All done and the door works like new, and all in less than 45 minutes. Would have been a more difficult job without the pioneering of people on this site. Thanks to all!

The ice maker door wouldn't open automatically

  • Customer: David from Albuquerque, NM
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 13 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
After replacing the solenoid several months ago, I concluded that the problem could only be the electronic circuit board that controls the timing and delay. The part arrived sooner than I expected. Installing it involved removing only six screws and unplugging two connections. The whole project took only about 10 minutes and now my ice maker works like new. Total cost was less than $55. Saved me several hundred dollars not to mention my personal time had I called in a repairman.

David O.
Albuquerque, NM

ice would not dispense

  • Customer: john from montgomery, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I removed 6 screws, unplugged assembly that had motor attached,removed from fridg,replaced motor and reinstalled assembly, putting back 6 screws.works like new.
thanks.

de light flasing on freezer door electronic disply

  • Customer: Sherri from Atlanta, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 12 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the back wall panel inside the freezer compartment(approx. 6 screws). The coils were very iced up. I manually defrosted the the coils with a hand hair dryer. I then removed the 2 screws from each heater element and the clip-on thermostat from the coil. I pulled the elements, thermostat and wiring harness(item 230 on parts diagram) out of the freezer compartment and installed the new assembly. Electronic self-check of the defroster indicated normal. Further checks indicated the lower heating element was open.

water line leaking behind refigerator

  • Customer: Michael from Merrimac, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks

The refrigerator was leaking water from the freezer section.

  • Customer: Joe from Summerton, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
First remove all food from the freezer section, disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then remove all the shelves in the freezer.

Then remove the back panel inside the freezer by taking out the screws holding it in and then simply lifting it out. A Philips screwdriver and 1/4" driver was needed.

After the panel is removed, you can see the defrost heater screwed to the refrigerator coils. It's in two sections wired together. One section is screwed to the bottom of the coil and the top section is screwed half way up the coils.

Unplug the wires and thermostat (coming from the defrost heater) from the wire assembly located above the coils.

Next, remove the screws holding the old defrost heater (there are two screws for each element of the defroster)and lift the heater out. Pay close attention as to how the old heater is situated in the freezer in order to put the new one in the same way.

Attach the new heater by putting the bottom element on first and replacing the two screws to secure it. Be careful to keep the wires from tangling and attach the top element the same way.

Next, carefully connect the wires and thermostat from the heater back to the wire assembly the same way they were connected from the old defrost heater.

Place the panel back in place in the back of the freezer section, replace the shelves, and connect the power. You're finished!!

P.S. Don't forget to put the food back in the freezer.

Ice maker ot making ice

  • Customer: Barry from Phoenix, AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 15 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

icemaker developed a leak and froze over

  • Customer: debbie from chino hills, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 15 of 24 people found this instruction helpful
My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

Replace Dual Inlet Water Valve

  • Customer: Timothy from West Windsor, NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 16 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the electrical power to the refridgerator, remove old valve, marking which electrical wire set goes to which solenoid valve. Cut the nut fasteners from the ice maker and front door water tubes. Leave the nut fastener on the supply line.

New valve - remove plastic shipping protection guard, remove rubber cap from supply connection, bend mounting bracket to a 90 degree bend, attach electrical wire reducers to the small wattage solenoid wires then to the solenoid, attach large wattage solenoid wires to the large solenoid, push ice maker tube into the small quick-connection(no nut fastener needed), push the front door water into the large quick-connection, finally mount valve asembly using same holes in frame as held the old valve assembly. Plug in the power. Solenoid valves may take an hour or so to operate.

Fridge wouldn't start

  • Customer: Patrick from Medford, NY
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed cowling unpluged timer and pluged in new one.
Great Service, got part in one day

Compressor overheating - Fridge not Cooling

  • Customer: CHRIS from LAGUNA NIGUEL, CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Condensor Fan not turning. I thought it would be an easy fix. I thought I could pull off the shroud and fan assy - no joy. Too many copper pipes and lots of tubing in the way. It took 90 minutes to remove and 30 minutes to install. The BIG hint here is to loosen the shoud, pull it back as far as you can and then remove the nut that holds the fan blade in place. THEN you can remove the motor. Get the new motor back into the shroud, get the blade back on and then tighten the shroud back up.

This part on refrigerator went out, wouldn't dispense water.

  • Customer: Glen from Harrisburg, OR
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 13 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the back cover on the refrigerator. Unbolted the unit. First of all I unpluged the refrigerator. Took off the two electrical connections and removed the input and output water lines. I then reversed this process when I installed the new part. It was real easy.

Switch failed on which kept the refrigerator warm due to heat generatered by light bulbs.

  • Customer: Terry from Simi Valley, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 12 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope
All Instructions for the CSC24GRSBWH
46-60 of 935