Models > CSC24GRSBWH > Instructions

CSC24GRSBWH Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSC24GRSBWH parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CSC24GRSBWH
31-45 of 889
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Panel hot to touch between freezer & refrigerator. Motor hot, fan not rotating.

  • Customer: Kimberly from Grandy NC
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged refrigerator, removed three screws to take out part, disconnected the wires and removed bad unit. Removed fan blade from old unit and attached to the new unit. Attached wires, placed the new motor back in. Plugged it back in, within 20 minutes panel between freezer and refrigerator was cool to touch.

Fridge door wouldn't close easily like it used to

  • Customer: Christopher from Roseville MN
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 12 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
This is a sibe-by-side refrigerator/freezer that needed a new lower hinge set for the fridge door.

First I removed everything from inside the fridge door, closed it, then loosened the top hinge bolts with an 8mm socket on a 1/4-inch ratchet. Using an 8mm nutdriver, I removed one bolt and loosed the other just far enough to be able to lift the hinge and swing it out of the way. (These bolts are long. The nutdriver is faster than the ratchet but you need a ratchet or a wrench to first break them loose.) Then I just lifted the door off the bottom hinge and set it aside.

The plastic lower front grill was covering the lower hinge but that grill is just held at the ends by spring clamps -- popped off easily so I could get to the hinge bolts. Again, 8mm bolts, just remove & replace hinge. I also had to replace the upper half of the door closer cam, which is screwed to the bottom of the door, being careful that the holes lined up: cam, shim, door holes.

Now the tricky part was lifitng the door back on the lower hinge. (It helps to have an assistant at the bottom to locate the hole for you.) Once the door was up, I swung the top hinge over, ran the two bolts in finger tight with my nutdriver, checked & adjusted the spacing* of the fridge door and tightened the bolts. This was all very easy! (*^_^*)

*On a side-by-side, you'll want the door to be straight up & down with a consistent gap top to bottom with the freezer door. The hinge has some slack for adjustment by positioning the door, then tightening the bolts. You'll see what I mean.

Water was leaking from back of fridge. Not able to use icemaker

  • Customer: Laura from Zanesville OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 13 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
This problem had already occurred in 2008. Repairman replaced dual water valve. Cost $190.00. We decided to do it ourselves this time. The repairs were actually made in three phases. First, when I pulled the fridge out from the wall, unplugged it, and turned the water valve back on I discovered that the plastic tubing from water supply into the fridge had long cracks in it and water was spraying out everywhere. I turned water off, went to Lowe's and bought the kit for that repair. Of course I didn't have to use all of the parts in the kit because the water supply was already there from the valve that came up through the floor. After turning the water back on and plugging the fridge back in, my husband and I tested it by trying the water dispenser. We found that water was leaking from somewhere inside the fridge, but didn't know where. After UNPLUGGING it, and turning the water off again, I took the metal back off at the bottom. It was leaking from the bigger plastic tubing (5/16"). It was just hanging, not connected into the dual water valve. Figured it had just broken. So I thought I just needed 5/16" tubing. I went on the GE website and it was very hard to get answers to my problem because I couldn't find the plastic tubing that it looked like. I ended up ordering the plastic tubing that goes up that back of the fridge to the icemaker. They sent me two of those, not one for the freezer and the bigger clear one (5/16") that I thought I needed. Then, I found this website! This PartSelect website is great!! After reading about other consumer repairs, I knew how to disconnect the dual water valve and found out that the smaller plastic tubing that goes up the back of the fridge to the icemaker had been pinched where it connects to the dual water value, barley hanging on. Just quick disconnected it from the valve by pushing up on the outside where the tubing comes out while pulling on the tubing. It came out, and I had to use needle nose pliers to pull some of it out where it had broken off inside. Then, pushed the new tubing into the valve and ran it up the back of the fridge, unscrewed the plate that goes over the clamp that holds the tubing, loosened the clamp a little, pulled the old tubing out, pushed the new tubing in, (the clamp was still tight enough) put the metal plate back on and replaced the screws. Then I re-connected the dual water valve to the electric clips, connected the 5/16" tubing to the right side of the valve. (The black tubing that goes up the back of the fridge goes into the left side of the valve.) put it back into place and screwed it back against the body of the fridge where it goes, put the back on and plugged it back in. We tested it again, and water was leaking, but not from where I made my first repair. I reversed everything again, and discovered that where the 5/16" tubing goes into the dual water value, it seemed more loose than it should have been. That is where the water was leaking from! I ordered the dual water valve, the 5/16" plastic tubing and the water tube union. I replaced the dual water valve-very easy! MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE FRIDGE, turn the water supply off, disconnect the small tubing from the dual water valve, disconnect the electric connections to the valve, and reverse the process. What I did was replace the 5/16" tubing the comes out of valve & goes up into the storage tank behind crisper drawer. Used union there. Put everything back together and it works!!

meatal parts were rusted

  • Customer: Allan from Pleasanton CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 16 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
the part is fairly easy to take apart, however pay close attention to how things fit and go together. It took me sometime to figure the reassembly out due to my lack of close attention to taking it apart. other than that it is simple.

Ice maker quit making ice

  • Customer: Jeffrey from Bluefield WV
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
the first thing i did was replace the water valve at the bottom of the refrigerator but that didn't work so then i spent more time researching the problem on your site and your diagnostic said to replace the ice maker so i ordered it, took the old one out, plugged the new one in and we had ice the next day.

Noisey fan/motor (bad motor bearing ?)

  • Customer: Keith from Fort Worth TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed 2 phillips head screws to remove ice maker (could have just loosened them)
Pulled fan off of shaft
Removed 2 phillips head screws on motor bracket , disconnected three motor wires & removed motor.
reversed process to install new motor & fan blade.
Space was a little tight for two hand and arms, but do-able.

This part on refrigerator went out, wouldn't dispense water.

  • Customer: Glen from Harrisburg OR
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 12 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the back cover on the refrigerator. Unbolted the unit. First of all I unpluged the refrigerator. Took off the two electrical connections and removed the input and output water lines. I then reversed this process when I installed the new part. It was real easy.

dirty ice from rusty auger

  • Customer: William from Chesapeake VA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed old bucket/auger assy from frig. Removed 4 + screws from front cover. Put front cover on new bucket/auger assy. Reinstalled in frig.....done. now have clean ice.

Replace Dual Inlet Water Valve

  • Customer: Timothy from West Windsor NJ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 15 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
Unplug the electrical power to the refridgerator, remove old valve, marking which electrical wire set goes to which solenoid valve. Cut the nut fasteners from the ice maker and front door water tubes. Leave the nut fastener on the supply line.

New valve - remove plastic shipping protection guard, remove rubber cap from supply connection, bend mounting bracket to a 90 degree bend, attach electrical wire reducers to the small wattage solenoid wires then to the solenoid, attach large wattage solenoid wires to the large solenoid, push ice maker tube into the small quick-connection(no nut fastener needed), push the front door water into the large quick-connection, finally mount valve asembly using same holes in frame as held the old valve assembly. Plug in the power. Solenoid valves may take an hour or so to operate.

water line leaking behind refigerator

  • Customer: Michael from Merrimac MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Plastic water line gets brittle from compersor heat over time and eventually brakes. I tried to fix with 5/16 line from a locel hardware store but outter diameter was slightly smaller so connection to valve leaked. This OEM part fit perfect. I cut the line beyond the brake and connected it with the tube union part, Easy fix. Everything works fine with no leaks

Freezer would ice up and refrigerator stop cooling

  • Customer: Brian from Tallulah LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
First i unpluged the power then cleaned everything out of freezer and removed all the drawers and racks them removed the 2 screws at bottem of freezerand removed panel then removed 4 screws on the bulbs and unpluged the wire and took off the sensor and replaced with new one put everthing back. Then on the top of refigerator side on the top behind the adjuster is the defrost timer pulled handle out and off removed plastic shield and removed 2 screws and unplug the timer and change it then put everything back and pluged back in and everything worked in a few minutes

The ice maker door wouldn't open automatically

  • Customer: David from Albuquerque NM
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
After replacing the solenoid several months ago, I concluded that the problem could only be the electronic circuit board that controls the timing and delay. The part arrived sooner than I expected. Installing it involved removing only six screws and unplugging two connections. The whole project took only about 10 minutes and now my ice maker works like new. Total cost was less than $55. Saved me several hundred dollars not to mention my personal time had I called in a repairman.

David O.
Albuquerque, NM

Compressor overheating - Fridge not Cooling

  • Customer: CHRIS from LAGUNA NIGUEL CA
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Condensor Fan not turning. I thought it would be an easy fix. I thought I could pull off the shroud and fan assy - no joy. Too many copper pipes and lots of tubing in the way. It took 90 minutes to remove and 30 minutes to install. The BIG hint here is to loosen the shoud, pull it back as far as you can and then remove the nut that holds the fan blade in place. THEN you can remove the motor. Get the new motor back into the shroud, get the blade back on and then tighten the shroud back up.

ice would not dispense

  • Customer: john from montgomery TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
I removed 6 screws, unplugged assembly that had motor attached,removed from fridg,replaced motor and reinstalled assembly, putting back 6 screws.works like new.
thanks.

Refigerator door would no longer self close

  • Customer: Melvin from Philomath OR
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Moved all items from door storage into refrigerator shelves. Removed top hinge cover held by single screw and top hinge plate held by two bolts. Lifted up door to clear bottom hinge pin and removed door. Covered open front of refrigerator with plastic wrap to keep cold in refrigerator with door removed. Laid door on kitchen counter top and removed bottom hinge assembly held on by two bolts. Replaced upper cam located on bottom of door and screwed the hinge assembly back on to bottom of door (helps to keep the three plates in same sequence and note the position of cam). Drilled out the rivet that holds the lower cam to the bottom hinge pin. Removed old lower cam and and replaced with new cam and secured to lower hinge assembly with pan head screw and nut (instead of rivet). Replaced door back onto lower hinge pin and secured upper hinge pin with original bolts. Placed cover on upper hinge assembly and secured with original screw. Removed plastic wrap from front of refrigerator and moved the items that originally were stored in the door back to provide weight needed for door to close properly. All done and the door works like new, and all in less than 45 minutes. Would have been a more difficult job without the pioneering of people on this site. Thanks to all!
All Instructions for the CSC24GRSBWH
31-45 of 889