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CSC20GWSBAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSC20GWSBAD parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CSC20GWSBAD
76-90 of 839
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Door wouldn't stay closed & was out of alignment

  • Customer: Rod from Nashville TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams
mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two.
1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins.
2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge.
3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge.
4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed
on floor.
5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge.
6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place.
7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate.
8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate.
9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge.
10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door.
11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door.
NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again.
12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.

Refrigerator door wouldn't close automatically.

  • Customer: Christopher from N. Merrick NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the top hinge with a socket and lifted the door off. Removed the bottom hinge from the refrigerator with same sized socket. Used a Dermel to cut out the old rivet holding the old mangled cam. Attached the new cam with a screw, washers and nut. Reattached bottom hinge to the refrigerator. Removed the bracket holding the second cam on the bottom of the door. Replaced the shim and cam. Reinstalled the door. No problems. Just don't make the same mistake I made. You need two cams. They interlock and work together to close the door automatically. The cams are identical. They are just off set by 90 degrees when the door is closed.

Would not despense ice and getting matal and plastic shavings in Ice when it did despense.

  • Customer: Louie from Lake Park GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws that held crusher to metal plate, making note of how unit came apart. Replaced Ice bucket auger and front and rear helix. I had to also order bushing/nut that screws to end of auger as the threads on mine were stripped out . I used the parts view on PartSelect.com to help in reassembly of the ice crusher blades, without that view it would have been trial and error in their proper assembly as I had forgotten ( because from 1st parts reciept and second parts reciept being about a week) how they came out. After assembly, with no left over parts I might add, I installed unit in to freezer and it works like new.
Thanks, Louie D.

Ice Maker wouldn't work, water tube freezing up, water leaking onto floor

  • Customer: Drew from Spring Lake NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
My problem was that the tube from the water valve to the ice maker was freezing when the valve was malfuntioning and sending more water, causing it to back up and freeze in the reception tube. Then the plastic water tube from the valve to the freezer seperated and water was leaking onto the floor. By reading the repair storyies on the Partselect website I learned that the water valve was not working correctly and needed replacing. I ordered the replacement part on a Wednesday evening and had the part at my house via FEDEX on Saturday morning. It took me about 20 minuttes to complete the entire repair.
I had shut the water off to the valve and unplugged the refrigerator.
First I took the ice storage unit out of the freezer. I then unsrewed the ice making tray from the left side of the freezer. I lowered the unit to the shelve but did not disconnect the wiring. I then pulled the water reception tube that goes from the ice maker to the outside of the refrigerator on the top right rear. There was grozen water contained in the tube. I ran it under the sink and released the frozen water so the tube was clear. I reinserted into the tunnel it sits in and reattached it to the 90 degree plaqstic fitting in the outside of the right rear of the refrigerator.I reattached the plastic water hose from the water valve to the 90 degree fitting. I then reattached the ice maker in the freezer compartment.
Using a nut driver I removered the rear cardboard cover and insulation from the right rear side of the refrigerator. Using a box wrench I unscrewed and disconnected the copper water tube from the valve. I then removed the srew holding the water supply copper tubing to the refrigerator and removed the srew holding the water valve in place.
I removed the old valve from the back of the refrigerator.
I then took note of the electrical connections and transferred them to the new valve. I needed the two adapters(supplied) for the right side electric terminal.
I then transferred the water connection tubes. Take note one is larger than the other. On the old valve they screwed into the water valve with a compression nut. On the new valve you only needed to insert the plastic water tube into the right size hole and push. The comression connection is automatic and does not require the nut. ( I just pushed the nuts back on the tubing and left them). There is a plastic seperation piece on the new valve. I just twisted it loose and removed it. This allowed ease in positioning the valve and water tubes.
I then inserted the new valve into the right rear of the refrigerator and resrewed the unit to the frame using the nut driver.
I then re-attached the water supply copper tubing onto the nipple on the new valve and using a box wrench re-attached same.
I then turned on the water supply to the refrigerator and checked for leaks.
I then replugged the refrigerator into the electical outlet and started the ice maker cycle.
I waited to see that all was working correctly. i then re-attached the insulation and cardboard cover on the rear of the refrigerator and pushed the unit back into the wall space.
Everything is working great now!

Refridgerator quit cooling because the defrost element had burned out and the refridgerator coils were totally covered with ice.

  • Customer: sherry from runaway bay TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I defrosted freezer. Removed cover from back of freezer. Removed screws from element disconected wires. I connected wires to new element installed screws and reinstalled cover.

icemaker developed a leak and froze over

  • Customer: debbie from chino hills CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 19 people found this instruction helpful
My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

Ice maker ot making ice

  • Customer: Barry from Phoenix AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

rusty ice maker

  • Customer: Dean from Park Ridge NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
removed old parts and installed new. went smooth

Freezer was cold but refrigerator was hot

  • Customer: James from Austin TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
After diagnosis though Part Select I determined it must be the defrost heater. I took the panel off on the inside of the back wall of the freezer and used a hair dryer to thaw the ice buildup. I found the bottom element was burned out. I ordered the defrost heater kit and the defrost timer in case that was faulty too. Parts arrived next day. I installed the heater kit and replaced the panel. Then took off the plastic cover inside the refrigerator. One screw near the top of the metal box allows you to remove it to get to the defrost timer.

refrigerator did not cool

  • Customer: Carl from Kent City MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
i put a new evaporator motor in and now it works fine

Ice trap door would not open

  • Customer: Susan from Polson MT
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug refrigerator or flip breaker to kill power to the refrigerator.
2. With hands, gently pull the bottom lip of the 3" X 11" face plate panel above the dispenser head.
3. Remove the 4 screws that are under the removed panel.
4. Tip the assemby down to reveal 2 plugs.
5. Gently pull the 2 plugs to disconnect.
6. Open the assembly to reveal the solenoid.
7. There are 3 screws at the base of the solenoid. The center screw attaches to the green ground wire.
8. Remove the three screws.
9. Observe: The bracket at the top of the solenoid unit tucks behind a 4th screw above the solenoid. You may need to loosen this screw to relesae the solenoid.
10.Unplug the yellow and red connector to the solenoid. It should not be totally free to remove.
11. Put the plunger into the solenoid. Note that the plunger has an opening to insert the white plastic trigger for the trap door. Make sure the trigger is inserted into this opening before reassembling.
12. Plug the yellow and red connector into the new solenoid.
13. Position the new solenoid to match the screw holes. The bracket at the top of the solenoid tucks under the 4th screw. Tighten as necessary.
14. Insert the green ground wire into the middle screw hole at the base of the solenoid and tighten.
15. Insert the two screws to either side of the ground wire and tighten.
16. Gently reconnect the two plugs.
17. Tip the assembly back into place making sure the trap door and hoses are lined up correctly.
18. Replace the 4 screws.
19. Snap the face plate back into place.
20. Turn on the power and give it a try!

I used other instructions provided by customers on the website. They were very useful.

This is the second time we replaced this unit. The first replacement failed within the one-year warranty period. I called customer service and they had a replacement part and refund for the previous part on its way immediately. Excellent service!

Door Would Not Close Properoy

  • Customer: Mike from Lake Sherwood MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Door cam disintegrated after 20 years. This was a terrific site for suggested repairs. My problem was not paying attention to how the door shim, cam and spacer were placed on the hinge. Most of the site's instructions did not forewarn the obvious...pay attention when doing repairs!!

Instructions from others were generally pretty good but as adept as I am at D-I-Y I still did not pay attention to how I took something apart so it could be assembled properly.

I don't think that ordering an entire door hinge set is necessary. It does not appear that shims and/or spacer come with the hinge assembly. Door cam was all that was needed. I thought about replacing the cam on the freezer side but won't do it until absolutely necessary.

This is a very good website and my thanks to all of the posts for the instructions!!

Drawers slides had broken causing pans to fall

  • Customer: James from Chipley FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
It was very simple, took out the slide rails and took a screwdriver and assembled. My wife was very pleased to have these drawers in working order once again.

Refrigerator door wouldn't close

  • Customer: Allen from Paso Robles CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I weged a block of wood under the door to hold the weight then used a nutdriver to removed the two screws attaching the bottom hinge to the refrigerator. The plastic closing cam was broken and preventing the door from closing. I found some plastic washers in my junk drawer to install on the lower hinge as a temporary fix to keep the appliance operational until the correct replacement parts could be tracked down. I then called local appliance stores in search of the closing cam and learned that none of them had the part in stock. I then hit the internet and within minutes found a picture of exactly what I needed at PartsSelect.com and had it on order a couple minutes later. A couple days after that, the new hinge was delivered, Again, I proped up the door, removed the lower hinge and replaced it with the new the new one that included the new closing cam. I was very happy to have saved lots of time and money and my wife was even happier to have the refrigerator working properly again. :)

Door would not close properly

  • Customer: Dan from New Braunfels TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I stacked three 2x4's that were approximately as wide as the door in length. This required lifting the door about 1/4" but it also got the weight of the door off the cam so the bracket assembly that the cam was attached to could be removed. I drilled out the rivet that held the old cam in place and like previous DIY's had to use a small bolt and nut to secure the new cam in place. Reattached the bracket with the new cam and that was it. The only problem was that the head of the bolt I used was not flat enough to allow proper clearance for the door to swing freely without feeling some drag and the wife noticed that immediately. I told her to wait until the weekend and I would again remove the door and file down the head of the bolt to allow the required clearance. After a few days of use, the door itself ground enough material off the head of the bolt so that the door began to open and close properly. So now she's happy, I'm happy and the dog is happy.
All Instructions for the CSC20GWSBAD
76-90 of 839