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CSC20GWSBAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSC20GWSBAD parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CSC20GWSBAD
76-90 of 851
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ICE MAKER CAP BROKE

  • Customer: TIM from GRETNA LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
IT TOOK ME ABOUT 15 MINUTES TO COMPLETE THE REPAIR, 1ST I EMPTIED THE ICE MAKER, THEN I REMOVED 4 SCREWS FROM THE REAR OF THE ICE MAKER TRAY AND TOOK THE PLASTIC PIECE OFF OF THE AUGER. I REVERSED THE STEPS AND PUT IT BACK TOGETHER.

refrigerator did not cool

  • Customer: Carl from Kent City MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
i put a new evaporator motor in and now it works fine

icemaker developed a leak and froze over

  • Customer: debbie from chino hills CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 11 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

Refrigerator & freezer became warm.

  • Customer: James from Garland TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged the refrigerator. I took all the food items out of the freezer, took out the ice bin and shelves. Then I unscrewed the back panel and removed it. The freezer coils were frozen over with ice. Then I used a large fan to thaw the ice and cleaned up the water with towels.
I unscrewed the old defrost heater at the bottom of the coil section, removed it and screwed the new defrost heater part in. I ended up using some dikes to cut the wiring midway up . ( I was going to use the new plastic plug that came with the new part, but it wasn't correct ). I spliced the wires together ( the color scheme was the same - pink to pink, blue to blue, etc), capped them , taped them with electrical tape, and I covered them with a corner from a sandwich bag and taped them a bit more to keep moisture out. Then I tucked the wiring up away from the coil section. I also spliced this little cylindrical part into the existing wiring harness and clipped it onto the copper tubing. ( I suspect this is the defrost timer, but I'm not sure ). After I removed the the old cylindrical little part, I noticed the cap was popped out of it. (it looked like it was damaged a bit ). Once I got all wiring tucked away and back in place, I put the back panel back on, plugged it back in. Voila'. Easy as pie. It's been running fine ( about a week now) ever since. I replaced the thermostat sensor first since that was the cheapest part, but it wasn't the problem. So I moved on to the defrost heater and that ended up being the bad part. I repaired my refrigerator for less than $100.00. Thanks PartSelect. You rock!

Very low flow from water dispenser, hollow ice cubes, broken ice dispenser helix

  • Customer: Osvaldo from Miami FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cardboard cover, vacuumed lint from coils and equipment area. Removed dual valves and labeled the four electrical leads with masking tape. Cut off the end of water lines to dispenser and ice maker to remove threaded connections (New are simply push on). The water leads are of different diameters, so there is no confusion.
Decided to replace water line at the same time so bought a plastic replacement for less than $10, removed old copper line and replaced it with new. (Original plumber used a custom made line with a smaller diameter and this may have contributed to the low flow).
Connected all lines and wires (had to use adapter supplied with valve for two of the leads which are of different connector widths than original) and secured valve and back panel. Had to bedn the valve mounting plate somewhat to allow it to fit (this is also a little different from the original).
After installation, it takes a little time to refill the lines until proper flow is established both at the dispenser and the icemaker.
Replacing the Helix took completely disassembling the ice drawer, Take your tiime in doing this as there are many parts that fit in only one precise way. This helix replacement took about 20 minutes total.

Door Closing Cam Disintegrated

  • Customer: Charles from Hubbardston MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The door closing cam on the refrigerator door was a snap to replace. However, I'm still baffled on how to replace the freezer door side. The condensation tube from the door runs through the door pivot and joins to a compression fitting behind the bottom trim piece. The compression ring is behind a formed lip on the tube and won't slide off. I could cut the tube but I really didn't want to do that. If anyone has done this and knows the trick to replace it, I would appreciate it.

Ed. Please post your question at our repair forums, forums.partselect.com.

Freezer would not auto defrost. Food side would be warm.

  • Customer: Sarah from Burton MI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Your customer installation comments were very helpful. After unplugging the unit, I took out all the freezer shelfs and the back panel (4 screws). I hadn't realized the coils were also covered in solid ice. It took awhile to defrost with a hair dryer, and I needed to use more than one towel to soak up the melting ice. Locating and splicing in the new thermostat was very easy. I used "cold weather" electrical tape to splice the wires back together. After reassembling the back panel and shelfs, I snapped in a new light shield that had been broken for awhile. It's been over a week now, and I do not see any problems. Overall, it was a easy fix. Just took a little time to defrost the coils.

Sarah

Door wouldn't stay closed & was out of alignment

  • Customer: Rod from Nashville TN
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
This repair replaced two riser cams - one attached to the bottom fridge hinge and one attached to the bottom of the door. The two cams
mate together. So, don't just buy one cam, buy two.
1. Removed all contents off the inside of the door as well as the bins.
2. Unscrewed single screw holding plastic cover over top hinge.
3. Unscrewed 2 screws holding top hinge to the top of the door and removed the top hinge.
4. Pulled door up and off bottom hinge and layed
on floor.
5. Removed plastic grill on bottom of fridge.
6. Removed 2 screws holding bottom hinge in place.
7. Using a vice to hold the hinge, I used a hacksw to cut through the rivet holding the riser cam to the hinge plate.
8. Used a small bolt & nut to secure the new riser cam to the hinge plate.
9. Reattached hinge plate to the bottom of the fridge.
10. On bottom of the door remove two screws holding riser cam to door.
11. Position new riser cam in place and reattach to bottom of door.
NOTE: on my door, the metal SHIM that goes between the cam riser & door was also broken. I ordered the replacement SHIM but it turned out to be made of PAPER. So, I didn't bother putting it on. If the riser cam wears out again, I'll just replace it again.
12. Put door back on and secure the top hinge to the top of the fridge and you're done.

drawers would not slide properly and the door cam was busted so we had a sagging door

  • Customer: Christian from Manhattan MT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
We took the drawers out unsrewed the slide rails, screwed the new ones back on and replaced the drawers. the door cam was alittle harder because we had to lift the door to put it in but it still took under 10 min. altogether it took about 25 minutes. I am also planning on buying a few more parts from the company so I will end up paying about $50 to fix a fridge that I got for free. WHAT A GREAT DEAL!!!!!

freezer not frezing properly frost buildup

  • Customer: Bill from Columbiana AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed housing around timer. Unpluged and
replaced timer. Defrosted freezer witk small portable heater. Freezer has worked greater since.
Saved a lot on service call.

Ice maker ot making ice

  • Customer: Barry from Phoenix AZ
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

The cam broke apart and the pieces were on the floor. The door did not close automatically. This was on the freezer side.

  • Customer: Bennie from Gainesville FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

Fridge wouldn't start

  • Customer: Patrick from Medford NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
Removed cowling unpluged timer and pluged in new one.
Great Service, got part in one day

Ice Maker wouldn't work, water tube freezing up, water leaking onto floor

  • Customer: Drew from Spring Lake NJ
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
My problem was that the tube from the water valve to the ice maker was freezing when the valve was malfuntioning and sending more water, causing it to back up and freeze in the reception tube. Then the plastic water tube from the valve to the freezer seperated and water was leaking onto the floor. By reading the repair storyies on the Partselect website I learned that the water valve was not working correctly and needed replacing. I ordered the replacement part on a Wednesday evening and had the part at my house via FEDEX on Saturday morning. It took me about 20 minuttes to complete the entire repair.
I had shut the water off to the valve and unplugged the refrigerator.
First I took the ice storage unit out of the freezer. I then unsrewed the ice making tray from the left side of the freezer. I lowered the unit to the shelve but did not disconnect the wiring. I then pulled the water reception tube that goes from the ice maker to the outside of the refrigerator on the top right rear. There was grozen water contained in the tube. I ran it under the sink and released the frozen water so the tube was clear. I reinserted into the tunnel it sits in and reattached it to the 90 degree plaqstic fitting in the outside of the right rear of the refrigerator.I reattached the plastic water hose from the water valve to the 90 degree fitting. I then reattached the ice maker in the freezer compartment.
Using a nut driver I removered the rear cardboard cover and insulation from the right rear side of the refrigerator. Using a box wrench I unscrewed and disconnected the copper water tube from the valve. I then removed the srew holding the water supply copper tubing to the refrigerator and removed the srew holding the water valve in place.
I removed the old valve from the back of the refrigerator.
I then took note of the electrical connections and transferred them to the new valve. I needed the two adapters(supplied) for the right side electric terminal.
I then transferred the water connection tubes. Take note one is larger than the other. On the old valve they screwed into the water valve with a compression nut. On the new valve you only needed to insert the plastic water tube into the right size hole and push. The comression connection is automatic and does not require the nut. ( I just pushed the nuts back on the tubing and left them). There is a plastic seperation piece on the new valve. I just twisted it loose and removed it. This allowed ease in positioning the valve and water tubes.
I then inserted the new valve into the right rear of the refrigerator and resrewed the unit to the frame using the nut driver.
I then re-attached the water supply copper tubing onto the nipple on the new valve and using a box wrench re-attached same.
I then turned on the water supply to the refrigerator and checked for leaks.
I then replugged the refrigerator into the electical outlet and started the ice maker cycle.
I waited to see that all was working correctly. i then re-attached the insulation and cardboard cover on the rear of the refrigerator and pushed the unit back into the wall space.
Everything is working great now!

Refrigerator compartment warm, Freezer cold

  • Customer: Hop from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
This is a old 2000 side by side Kenmore frig bought from sears. left Freezer side was building up ice in the back, while right side was not cool at all. The Defrost Timer was behind the light panel on top in compartment side. Easily remove unit and unscrew things. Works like a champ.
All Instructions for the CSC20GWSBAD
76-90 of 851