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CSC20GWSBAD Hotpoint Refrigerator - Instructions

All installation instructions for CSC20GWSBAD parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the refrigerator repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the CSC20GWSBAD
76-90 of 851
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Freezer was cold but refrigerator was hot

  • Customer: James from Austin, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
After diagnosis though Part Select I determined it must be the defrost heater. I took the panel off on the inside of the back wall of the freezer and used a hair dryer to thaw the ice buildup. I found the bottom element was burned out. I ordered the defrost heater kit and the defrost timer in case that was faulty too. Parts arrived next day. I installed the heater kit and replaced the panel. Then took off the plastic cover inside the refrigerator. One screw near the top of the metal box allows you to remove it to get to the defrost timer.

Will not make ice

  • Customer: GEORGE from ELIOT, ME
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 11 of 18 people found this instruction helpful
Bing , Bang, Boom.

Ice Maker Cap Broke

  • Customer: TIM from GRETNA, LA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
It took me about 15 minutes to complete the repair, 1st I emptied the ice maker, then I removed 4 screws from the rear of the ice maker tray and took the plastic piece off of the auger. I reversed the steps and put it back together.

Ice Maker wouldn't work, water tube freezing up, water leaking onto floor

  • Customer: Drew from Spring Lake, NJ
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
My problem was that the tube from the water valve to the ice maker was freezing when the valve was malfuntioning and sending more water, causing it to back up and freeze in the reception tube. Then the plastic water tube from the valve to the freezer seperated and water was leaking onto the floor. By reading the repair storyies on the Partselect website I learned that the water valve was not working correctly and needed replacing. I ordered the replacement part on a Wednesday evening and had the part at my house via FEDEX on Saturday morning. It took me about 20 minuttes to complete the entire repair.
I had shut the water off to the valve and unplugged the refrigerator.
First I took the ice storage unit out of the freezer. I then unsrewed the ice making tray from the left side of the freezer. I lowered the unit to the shelve but did not disconnect the wiring. I then pulled the water reception tube that goes from the ice maker to the outside of the refrigerator on the top right rear. There was grozen water contained in the tube. I ran it under the sink and released the frozen water so the tube was clear. I reinserted into the tunnel it sits in and reattached it to the 90 degree plaqstic fitting in the outside of the right rear of the refrigerator.I reattached the plastic water hose from the water valve to the 90 degree fitting. I then reattached the ice maker in the freezer compartment.
Using a nut driver I removered the rear cardboard cover and insulation from the right rear side of the refrigerator. Using a box wrench I unscrewed and disconnected the copper water tube from the valve. I then removed the srew holding the water supply copper tubing to the refrigerator and removed the srew holding the water valve in place.
I removed the old valve from the back of the refrigerator.
I then took note of the electrical connections and transferred them to the new valve. I needed the two adapters(supplied) for the right side electric terminal.
I then transferred the water connection tubes. Take note one is larger than the other. On the old valve they screwed into the water valve with a compression nut. On the new valve you only needed to insert the plastic water tube into the right size hole and push. The comression connection is automatic and does not require the nut. ( I just pushed the nuts back on the tubing and left them). There is a plastic seperation piece on the new valve. I just twisted it loose and removed it. This allowed ease in positioning the valve and water tubes.
I then inserted the new valve into the right rear of the refrigerator and resrewed the unit to the frame using the nut driver.
I then re-attached the water supply copper tubing onto the nipple on the new valve and using a box wrench re-attached same.
I then turned on the water supply to the refrigerator and checked for leaks.
I then replugged the refrigerator into the electical outlet and started the ice maker cycle.
I waited to see that all was working correctly. i then re-attached the insulation and cardboard cover on the rear of the refrigerator and pushed the unit back into the wall space.
Everything is working great now!

Very low flow from water dispenser, hollow ice cubes, broken ice dispenser helix

  • Customer: Osvaldo from Miami, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed cardboard cover, vacuumed lint from coils and equipment area. Removed dual valves and labeled the four electrical leads with masking tape. Cut off the end of water lines to dispenser and ice maker to remove threaded connections (New are simply push on). The water leads are of different diameters, so there is no confusion.
Decided to replace water line at the same time so bought a plastic replacement for less than $10, removed old copper line and replaced it with new. (Original plumber used a custom made line with a smaller diameter and this may have contributed to the low flow).
Connected all lines and wires (had to use adapter supplied with valve for two of the leads which are of different connector widths than original) and secured valve and back panel. Had to bedn the valve mounting plate somewhat to allow it to fit (this is also a little different from the original).
After installation, it takes a little time to refill the lines until proper flow is established both at the dispenser and the icemaker.
Replacing the Helix took completely disassembling the ice drawer, Take your tiime in doing this as there are many parts that fit in only one precise way. This helix replacement took about 20 minutes total.

leaking water / icemaker valve

  • Customer: Lorry from Bentonville, AR
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Simple. UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. Remove set screw holding valve to frame, switch hoses one at a time into new valve, switch wires one set at a time from old to new, re-attach the new valve, turn on water , plug in fridge, check for leaks. 2-minute job.

Door Closing Cam Disintegrated

  • Customer: Charles from Hubbardston, MA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The door closing cam on the refrigerator door was a snap to replace. However, I'm still baffled on how to replace the freezer door side. The condensation tube from the door runs through the door pivot and joins to a compression fitting behind the bottom trim piece. The compression ring is behind a formed lip on the tube and won't slide off. I could cut the tube but I really didn't want to do that. If anyone has done this and knows the trick to replace it, I would appreciate it.

Ed. Please post your question at our repair forums, forums.partselect.com.

Refrigerator door wouldn't close

  • Customer: Allen from Paso Robles, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I weged a block of wood under the door to hold the weight then used a nutdriver to removed the two screws attaching the bottom hinge to the refrigerator. The plastic closing cam was broken and preventing the door from closing. I found some plastic washers in my junk drawer to install on the lower hinge as a temporary fix to keep the appliance operational until the correct replacement parts could be tracked down. I then called local appliance stores in search of the closing cam and learned that none of them had the part in stock. I then hit the internet and within minutes found a picture of exactly what I needed at PartsSelect.com and had it on order a couple minutes later. A couple days after that, the new hinge was delivered, Again, I proped up the door, removed the lower hinge and replaced it with the new the new one that included the new closing cam. I was very happy to have saved lots of time and money and my wife was even happier to have the refrigerator working properly again. :)

Would not despense ice and getting matal and plastic shavings in Ice when it did despense.

  • Customer: Louie from Lake Park, GA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws that held crusher to metal plate, making note of how unit came apart. Replaced Ice bucket auger and front and rear helix. I had to also order bushing/nut that screws to end of auger as the threads on mine were stripped out . I used the parts view on PartSelect.com to help in reassembly of the ice crusher blades, without that view it would have been trial and error in their proper assembly as I had forgotten ( because from 1st parts reciept and second parts reciept being about a week) how they came out. After assembly, with no left over parts I might add, I installed unit in to freezer and it works like new.
Thanks, Louie D.

Door Would Not Close Properoy

  • Customer: Mike from Lake Sherwood, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Door cam disintegrated after 20 years. This was a terrific site for suggested repairs. My problem was not paying attention to how the door shim, cam and spacer were placed on the hinge. Most of the site's instructions did not forewarn the obvious...pay attention when doing repairs!!

Instructions from others were generally pretty good but as adept as I am at D-I-Y I still did not pay attention to how I took something apart so it could be assembled properly.

I don't think that ordering an entire door hinge set is necessary. It does not appear that shims and/or spacer come with the hinge assembly. Door cam was all that was needed. I thought about replacing the cam on the freezer side but won't do it until absolutely necessary.

This is a very good website and my thanks to all of the posts for the instructions!!

refrigerator did not cool

  • Customer: Carl from Kent City, MI
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
i put a new evaporator motor in and now it works fine

The regrigerator would not defrost properly. After doing some online research, I determined that the Defrost Heater was no longer working.

  • Customer: David from Lakeland, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First, I had to remove the back panel in the freezer. This exposes the cooling coils and the Defrost Heater which is located toward the bottom underneath the cooling coils. There are four screws that have to be removed before the old Defrost Heater can be taken out. There are two wires that go from the Defrost Heater to the power connection. These wires are blue and pink. I had to remove some pieces in the back at the top of the freezer to expose the power connection for the Defrost Heater. These pieces were held in place with phillips screws, so they easily came out to reveal the power connection. The power connection is a simple plug-in type. The Defrost Thermostat is also included with the new Defrost Heater. This is a round piece which is clamped onto the Cooling Coils. I removed the old Defrost Thermostat. It is connected to the same power connection with the Defrost Heater. After I mounted the new Defrost Heater and Defrost Thermostat and connected the power, the refrigerator has worked perfectly.

fridge quit coolingg / freezing

  • Customer: JEFF from HAMPTON, GA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
remove lower back cover - disconnect wires to fan motor - place 6" fan to blow on condenser - fridge began cooling & freezing again - ordered part - part arrived - removed fan motor & bracket - cleaned brackets & fan blade - cleaned lint & dust from condenser compartment (took longer to clean than anything else) - replaced fan motor - replaced cover - was hero with wife ... :-)

The cam broke apart and the pieces were on the floor. The door did not close automatically. This was on the freezer side.

  • Customer: Bennie from Gainesville, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
I used the same steps as described in other descriptions listed here. Since I was changing the hinge assembly on the freezer side the difference I discovered was that there was a nylon water hose inside the hinge assembly that I did not at first know how to remove. I finally called a repairman I happened to know and following his instruction simply snapped the hose loose where there was a connector and placed a cloth under it to catch the moisture that drained. Having done that, the rest of the assembly went just the same way as the other instructions listed here said that it would. Door now functions like new.

Refrigerator compartment warm, Freezer cold

  • Customer: Hop from Houston, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
This is a old 2000 side by side Kenmore frig bought from sears. left Freezer side was building up ice in the back, while right side was not cool at all. The Defrost Timer was behind the light panel on top in compartment side. Easily remove unit and unscrew things. Works like a champ.
All Instructions for the CSC20GWSBAD
76-90 of 851