CPLMB209DCC Frigidaire Microwave - Instructions

I first removed the top plate above the microwave door (3 screws), then I removed the plate containing the buttons and clock. The microwave has 3 relay switches and they are in a little holder. The holder was too difficult to remove so I just removed the bottom switch and replaced. The microwave started right up.

was told buy a repair person to check the door micro switches as it was a common problem. removed the top plastic air grill to get access to the screw that holds in place the control cover. After unplugging the unit, i took out the (2) screws that held in the switches and removed them (3). One switch was a bit melted so i tested it with a 12 volt battery and it was bad. Ordered a new one from Part select and got it fast . Works great .

After unplugging the unit remove the control face buy removing the screws. All three door switchs are on a bracket on the left. Remove the two screws holding the bracket in place and pull out. Disconnect the wires from the three switches and test each switch indivually to determine the bad one. I used a multimeter set on ohms.Replace the bad switch with the new one and replace all the wires. Reassemble the unit and you are good to go.

It is a undercabinet stovetop microwave. First had to take it down and unplug. Remove the top cover locate the door switch. Used neednose pliers to remove switch. Unplug two terminals.Plug new switch and use pliers to replace back @ same position.Plug in socket temporarily to see if it works.Afterwards if it works.Unplug and replace cover.Ready to be replaced back under cabinet.

first of all, ordered the right piece, second, brought the right handyman to help...getting the over/microwave out as one piece took some doing...then the cover of the microwave had to come off...once we got to the piece itself, it was no issue... then putting it all back together...took about two hours...he needed our assistance because of thew weight and the need to pull the units out simultaneously

As this microwave is part of a wall micro/oven combo, we removed the trim, slid out the microwave and tried for days to figure out how to release the microwave control panel. Through sheer force, we were able to release the lower half of the panel...enough to get our fingers, chopsticks and a flashlight inside to remove the broken lever. It took 2 of us to pull the panel out and replace the lever. I was hoping for a video online of how to remove that control panel but luckily we changed out the broken lever and it's back in working order! Glad we didn't have to trash and entire microwave/oven combo for one broken plastic part...it all works fine now.

Remove microwave from wall, removed outer cover which allowed access behind the control panel, was then able to take out the broken lever and with a little maneuvering was able to replace it with the new one. The whole process took less than an hour and was easy to accomplish.

Plastic trim on inside of the door pops out if you pry with a flathead screwdriver. Then lift door latch out of place and carefully remove the spring. New latch goes back in the way the old one came out. Door trim pops back in.

This is an OTR microwave oven, needs to be removed to diagnose problem. I did not diagnose problem properly, I searched online for possible causes, read that (99%)percent of the time the interlock switch was bad and replacement should solve my problem. It was also stated to be an easy fix,15- 45 minutes depending on ability. I ordered the relay switch. Took the oven down then removed outer shell. With my multimeter I began to test, fuses(2), interlock switches(3)and transformer. 3 interlock switches were ok, fuses were fine, and had power to the transformer, meter could not read output of transformer because of high voltage, (2300v). I'm down to magnetron (about a hundred bucks) or the touch pad/ circuit board. I have a countertop micro that I'm putting in place of the OTR. As far as Partselect, my item was shipped and delivered on time, instructions for changing that part was quite accurate. Would order from here again, just do my homework first.

0. Turn off breaker to oven
1 Remove two screws holding oven into enclosure.
2. Remove trim piece from bottom.
3. Open oven door, and engage part on hinge which keeps door from closing all the way. Now, door can be lifted and removed, set aside.
4. Slide oven out. This is very heavy, and it's best to have two people as well as something slightly lower than the oven to put it on, I used a chair.
5. Remove microwave trim, 4 screws.
6. Remove baffle which protects microwave power cord.
7. Loosen 4 screws from bottom of microwave. I used a Screwdriver bit with a pliers, as there isn't much room. Slide microwave forward or back, and microwave can be lifted from oven.
8. Remove 4 screws on side, 2 security Star screws on bottom of back, and 3 regular screws on back.
9. Remove top heat shield, and top/sides cover. Danger, do not plug in microwave with top/side cover missing. Also, capacitor on right/back may hold dangerous voltages, short the terminals using well-insulated tool. There is a bleed resistor which is supposed to do this, but you can never be too careful.
10. Open microwave drawer. Unscrew the front control panel from the inside. Remove plastic part the door open button usually moves, the part needs to be pulled to the left side to be removed. Take a picture of the wires attached to the switches on the latch plate, so you put them back correctly.
11. Remove wire connectors from switches. These connectors have a retaining feature, if you push the retaining feature, it doesn't take too much force to remove it. There are 6 wires. Remove the latch plate, there may be a screw or two.
12. Take note of which switches are normally own and normally closed. They have to go back the same way. I mainly took out the latch plate because the switches stopped working, a couple had welded themselves together internally. But, I had to replace the latch plate because I improperly removed the switches and broke the plate. The switches are held in place by a pin through the switch, a couple of static parts from the latch plate, and a tab which sticks up from the bottom of the latch plate. The pin is very fragile. Depress the tan from the bottom of the latch plate, and the switch should rotate on the pin. Do not release the tab until the such has rotated past it. Now, you can lift the switch.
13. Reverse all of these steps with the new patch plate to put everything back together. You might want to test the microwave before reattaching it to the oven.
14. To put the oven back into the cavity, it's best to lean the back edge over the bottom of the cavity, then lift the oven from the front and slide it in.

Removed unit from above stove removed outer housing, interior shield and tested the 4 door relays. One was not working. Replaced parts and re installed unit over stove.

I purchased one relay switch (there are three) took one out one by one and replced it with the new one and tested it each time until it worked. Super easy and saved me hundreds of dollars by doing this myself.

Much like the other post: 1. Removw vent case on top (3 screws) 2. Remove cover with control buttons (1 screw). 3. Removed bottom relay switch and replaced. Tight working space so be patient. Took 15 minutes Needle nose pliers used to crimp connector onto switch

I managed to move the auger far enough to allow me to insert the cup-drive and then realign the auger with the new cup-drive. I also have had one to break very shortly after installing it. This is my second part to replace and this one went really smooth, since I understood that the initial parts installation instructions did not apply on my ice maker.